Rusted Frame Repair
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Joined: Jan 2017
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I hammered around the small spot on the frame and no where else seems to be severely affected besides surface rust which is fixable. The rusted spots are where the bump stop and shock mounts were riveted on. The front half of the truck (frame, cab, etc.) looks southern and I will post a picture of that. Just the back half of the truck is affected with rust. Not to be close minded about this but I don't have a garage, nothing to pull the cab off, engine lift, nothing but my the tools I have in my shed. So I am going to make the most out of this frame before I have to struggle to swap frames. I posted another thread regarding the gauge of steel on the frame these trucks used. I did buy this truck for $750 and even in the below 0 weather here in Iowa she fires right up and being the from the bed forward the truck looks southern and drove it home an hour and a half away with no rear shocks or brakes. I couldn't pass it up. Thank you for the information everyone I am an amateur so it is nice to have the knowledge and support from you guys. I'll stay updated on my progress and try my best to follow up on my threads.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,186
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
What... you do not know any one in Iowa with a tractor? lol
Glad to hear the front half is better. Do you not own at least a cherry picker? Rentable item and make for an easy way to self pull a bed.
And that will make it way easier to access the needed repair areas.
Glad to hear the front half is better. Do you not own at least a cherry picker? Rentable item and make for an easy way to self pull a bed.
And that will make it way easier to access the needed repair areas.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,674
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From: Ideeho
Yourself and 3 friends can lift the bed pretty easily.......just don't know if the cost of the beer required to entice your friends to come help would be cheaper than renting a cherry picker............On a serious note.......having the bed out of your way will make the job waaaayyy easier.......especially if you are just learning to weld.....and would make it cheaper if you are planning on farming the job out....
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 765
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From: Edmond, OK
I recommend getting three grinders - a good one for flap wheels, a good one for a knotted wire cup brush and a cheapie to use with cut-off wheels. Why? Because it's a total pain to switch between one and the other. The $10 HF grinder is good for the latter - let the cut-off disc do the work. A good grinder (like a DeWalt) has better bearings for wire brushes and flap wheels' side loads whereas the HF bearings suck and will quickly go south!!
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2015
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If you want a decent welder for a good price. Check out Eastwood. I got their 175amp/240v and its great. I use co2 shielding gas. I wouldnt buy a welder unless you can put a shielding gas on it. Even if you only use flux core, the gas would be there if you want to upgrade.
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