Rusted Frame Repair
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 900
Likes: 3
The shock mounts are available new. That's a common area for debris to collect and rust out. Mine is the same way. I'm gonna cut out the affected area and weld in an 1/8" thick patch. As far as the cost, who knows. I understand labor rates are in the $80-$100+ per hour range now. Trouble will be finding a shop that is willing to tackle the job. As many that are like that, it would be nice if the aftermarket offered a "back half" replacement frame section.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
From: White Bluff, TN
On my Dad's 79 he took it to the local tech school and bought the parts. The Auto Tech class did the repair work for free with an experienced fabricator supervising. That's been about ten years and He hasn't had any issues. I know not all people can weld, but it is definitely a skill worth learning. The older our trucks get the more repair we'll have to do. Not all schools will do this but you can check. If not, you'll need to find a welder/fabricator that will.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,235
Likes: 5,811
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Welcome to FTE.
That 1st pic are looks like where your rubber bump stop base attached. X2 on the shock mount is a very common problem.
They are mounted with 3 (very much a PITA to remove) rivets. Their is a way to small drain notch in the bracket and since they mount is upside down, the drain notch gets dirt/road grim in it and starts to rust.
X grind the head and punch out the rivets to remove what's left the old bracket. Make the drain notch bigger on the new one and then bolt it on after a good rust proofing. You can do all that job yourself.
Instead of cutting out all the bad frame and maybe making a weak area before the repair, I would clean it up best you can and then plate weld material over both sides.
Cost for the frame repair...if you cut out/clean up the bad area, grind prep both sides of the frame. Move the elec wiring and brake lines, I would say a welding shop would not charge you much to just weld some plates on. Its all the prep work that can cost you, if you do not do it yourself.
That 1st pic are looks like where your rubber bump stop base attached. X2 on the shock mount is a very common problem.
They are mounted with 3 (very much a PITA to remove) rivets. Their is a way to small drain notch in the bracket and since they mount is upside down, the drain notch gets dirt/road grim in it and starts to rust.
X grind the head and punch out the rivets to remove what's left the old bracket. Make the drain notch bigger on the new one and then bolt it on after a good rust proofing. You can do all that job yourself.
Instead of cutting out all the bad frame and maybe making a weak area before the repair, I would clean it up best you can and then plate weld material over both sides.
Cost for the frame repair...if you cut out/clean up the bad area, grind prep both sides of the frame. Move the elec wiring and brake lines, I would say a welding shop would not charge you much to just weld some plates on. Its all the prep work that can cost you, if you do not do it yourself.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 2,217
Likes: 324
From: Central Florida
I can't find the thread right now but there was one on building a frame for a dent out of tubing, race car style. It also had a CV IFS if memory serves. Last I read, it had a tragic ending while being transported to another state. A Dodge Ram truck rear ended the trailer it was on.
I mention this to raise the question, "How hard would it be to make your own frame out of square, rectangular or round tubing? I'd guess that round would be hardest and rectangular easiest.
Key to any approach would be a map showing where mounting holes would have to be. Does such a map exist?
With that info, one might weld up a front half, back half or full frame. The case I cited didn't provide that map. I believe he used his stock frame and worked from that.
I mention this to raise the question, "How hard would it be to make your own frame out of square, rectangular or round tubing? I'd guess that round would be hardest and rectangular easiest.
Key to any approach would be a map showing where mounting holes would have to be. Does such a map exist?
With that info, one might weld up a front half, back half or full frame. The case I cited didn't provide that map. I believe he used his stock frame and worked from that.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
On my Dad's 79 he took it to the local tech school and bought the parts. The Auto Tech class did the repair work for free with an experienced fabricator supervising. That's been about ten years and He hasn't had any issues. I know not all people can weld, but it is definitely a skill worth learning. The older our trucks get the more repair we'll have to do. Not all schools will do this but you can check. If not, you'll need to find a welder/fabricator that will.
... and so much so regarding the ROI is now three welders are in my garage - a lil MIG, a big MIG, and a TIG. Oh the Power of Blue!
https://www.millerwelds.com/
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
From: White Bluff, TN
I'm with you HIO Silver. I have a good friend who has been helping me learn to weld and fabricate over the last 6 or 7 years. Because of that, on my 79 I was able to do repair on mine without paying a shop.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
Buy the best welder you can afford because it can last a lifetime (and you'll make new friends who want/need stuff welded). If working on a frame, I definitely recommend getting a 220V welder. There are even models that can switch between 110V and 220V. Meaning, the extra power is there if ya need it.
Btw, I would not suggest any of Harbor Freight's welders but HF does carry small tools and accessories that are very helpful and low-buck. For example, magnetic triangles, C-clamps, carbide-tipped scribes, stepped drill bits, etc.
I recommend getting two grinders - a good one for flap wheels and a cheapie to use with cut-off wheels. Why? Because it's a total pain to switch between one and the other. The $10 HF grinder is good for the latter - let the cut-off disc do the work. A good grinder (like a DeWalt) has better bearings for flap wheels' side loads whereas the HF bearings suck and will quickly go south!!
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New User
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Im going to pull the bed off someday here and sandblast the frame. My issue is going to be getting 1/8 piece of metal to shape of the frame around it. Plus, finding the rear shock mounts becuase I can't seem to find them on them.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,235
Likes: 5,811
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
I would not try to wrap around it, but 1st flat plate weld the largest flat section of the frame rail, on both sides of course.
Looked here in the "Parts Vendors & Resources" list for a rear shock mount and about any thing else you need in the reproduced dept https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14955960
BAM here you go JBG...https://shop.broncograveyard.com/197...FQK2wAodkzYFtA
Looked here in the "Parts Vendors & Resources" list for a rear shock mount and about any thing else you need in the reproduced dept https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14955960
BAM here you go JBG...https://shop.broncograveyard.com/197...FQK2wAodkzYFtA
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,511
Likes: 340
From: Wildwood Pa
The first thing I would do is get a big hammer & start pounding on the frame, starting on both sides of the rust damaged area. You want to see just how far the rust has traveled, & how severe it it is. Many times a small area will be missing, but when you hammer on the frame you find that several feet or more are completely gone.
Check the entire frame front to rear, crossmembers too, before you start patching.
Check the entire frame front to rear, crossmembers too, before you start patching.