So I was preparing to pull the bed off to start running all new lines, tank, ect. to install an EFI system and I noticed a funny little rust spot. I investigated a little more with a grinder and wire wheel and ball peen hammer and found out that where the upper rear shock mounts are bolted to the frame on both sides was very very soft to the point that I could bust through. I was wondering if this is even salvageable? And if so, what would be the best route for doing so?

 

Section in some new metal. ... better have a 220v welder.

 

lol that's amateur rust. Square the hole back to factory thickness, cutting all the rust a way until you get there. Cut a section from a junkyard frame, fill the hole with a flush-fitting patch from that. MIG it hot from both sides, then grind the welds flush both sides, so that it doesn't look like its been patched. Then cut a section 1/4 do 1/2 bigger than your hole, drill a few plug weld holes in that plate and weld it solidly over the patch on the back side. Make the back patch look as good as you can, and make sure there is no trace of it visible from the front side, as some states will give you a hassle if there are booger-looking welds on your frame. Brush a good epoxy/sealing primer on the patch, cover it with undercoating.


I live in the northeast where rain, snow, salt, mud and endless winters eat frames alive, and Ive done this patch technique literally dozens of times without failure.


Heads up: Check around, and under your steering box, and all of your cab and body mounting points, from core support to tailgate, the rubber bushings retain moisture and rot the frame to body mounts. No biggie, you can either buy new ones and bolt them on with grade 8 hardware, or patch your existing ones with "frame savers" from jeffs bronco graveyard.


Good luck!

 

Go ahead and pull the bed. X2 on that is repairable as suggested, when you remove the shock mounts to make the repairs, make the drain notch bigger.

 

What "Hail destroyer" said is spot on and what I would have recommended. Cut, fill, weld, grind, patch, cover. Spot on.

Follow what he said and you will end up with something as strong or stronger than new.

- boingk

 

This thread caused me to wonder how hard it might be to fabricate the entire frame from new stock. Looking at what Fat Man Fabrication offers, a 1961 - 1979 chassis in various stages of completion, it doesn't appear to be that complicated. Most of the key dimensions are available in the Body Builder's Layout Book.
So, has anyone actually attempted this as a DYI project?
One issue that might be a show stopper relates to the VIN. Our trucks are uniquely identified by the VIN stamped on the passenger side upper frame rail. Can a home builder get a VIN issued to them?

 

Even rusty and patched, I have yet to bend or break a 67 thru 79 factory frame. I am not extreme rock crawling or anything, but I have had them twisted up pretty good off road, overloaded with firewood, rocks and crap and up to the rockers in cold wet gooey slop, so I haven't had the need to fab up a new frame. Would be cool to see though, flowney. It would be nice to fab one up to add modern upgrades.