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The second section is captioned "Analog Voltmeter Method"
Reference is made to 'meter' and 'needle sweeps'
These could be amended to (or testlight) and (or flashes)
The procedure is exactly the same except there is no polarity to a bulb.
In a sense, you are providing the MIL that doesn't exist in these very early EFI trucks.
The OP of this thread doesn't yet have a running truck so he can't even run KOER but if the battery wasn't disconnected for long he may have CM codes stored
But it's looking like we have a kid who's coming across his first-ever computer-controlled engine, let's not forget about him.
I have some stuff on photobucket (and similar) places where I have the official Ford documentation on how to do this (which is kinda terse and can be kinda confusing, those books are big).
Please let the record show that for once, it was NOT me who took the conversation off into the weeds.
Seems we've got a truck of dubious provenance and likely a victim of neglect, abandoned by the side of the road. Had this happened at the Grand Canyon, I'd say this was a script for a Joe Dirt sequel, as I veer off on a tangent by the third run-on sentence.
Anyhoo, I think some real basic troubleshooting is in order, such as checking for spark, fuel pressure, etc. Also, to the original poster, how much effort and money are you willing to gamble? Without some in-depth diagnostic work, there's no way to know the general internal condition of the motor. I'd hate to suggest some routine stuff like spark plugs, fuel filter, etc. only to find the engine has a burnt valve, for example. On the other hand, though, you could end up with a decent truck for minimal effort.
On a somewhat related note: Assuming it can be brought back to life, will you be able to successfully register the truck? It would be a shame to get it up and running only to hit a brick wall with your DMV, rendering all that effort for naught.
Back to the subject at hand.
I wouldn't change anything, because once you do the conditions that caused the truck to stop running may not be evident.
1) can you hear the fuel pump run for one second when the key is first turned from 'off' to 'run'?
2) can you check for spark by taking the center wire from the distributor cap (the short one connected to the coil) and holding the tip near some metal on the engine while someone else cranks the engine?
3) you said it "came to a grinding stop". Have you checked to see if it has oil?
Compression, fuel and spark.
These are the three essentials for a gasoline engine to run.
Codes will tell us more details of how to troubleshoot.
Most of my stuff was hosted for free by Image Shack, went that way for several years. But they started charging, and deleted all my pictures when I wouldn't pay.
I have other stuff on other sites, too, but most was on imageshack.
...as I veer off on a tangent by the third run-on sentence.
Even further off topic.
Pixar made a really funny movie close to 10 years ago that depicts a society that has become overwhelmingly inactive & disinterested (because automation does everything for mankind). It's hugely funny in my opinion, you might check it out if you're all cooped up at home in an ice storm or sumthin.
OP - those big battery cables in your hand aren't the reason why the thing isn't starting, something deeper is going on and you'll need to figure it out if you want to proceed. Guys here will help you if you're interested, but it's gonna take time and effort on your part.
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