Hey guys I'm new here although I have been creeping this site for years. I have a problem and am running out of ideas. I bought a 1989 Ford F250 ext cab with a fuel injected 460 and automatic transmission not running for $500 in hopes of getting it to come to life again. The previous owner stated that it ran great a year ago and that he parked it one day and when he came back outside the next day it would turn over but not start. Previous owner stated he couldn't figure it out so it sat until he decided to sell it. When I purchased it, it would not run, it acts like it wants to start but never does. I've been working on it for about three weeks now and still have no luck. It appears to have three fuel pumps front and rear tanks and on in line pump. It seemed to be getting no fuel to the rail but when I sprayed started fluid into the intake I still had a no start issue. I pulled a plug and I have spark although it appears to be weak to me, orange color not blue, and I feel like the spark is slow and it should be more rapid(if that makes sense). I have since changed the front tank fuel pump assembly, the ignition coil, the ignition control module and the distributor. it still will not start, I have fire and its still orange not blue, I have not changed the plugs or wires but they seem to be in good shape and I don't want to through more money at it hoping to fix it. I thought about changing the high pressure fuel pump but wouldn't this engine run bust off and run for a bit with starter fluid sprayed in the intake. I notice today that the negative battery cables are getting extremely hot, to the point where they will burn you. Im not great with wiring and such but could this be a grounding issue causing weak spark. I'm not sure where to go from here any and all help is greatly appreciated?

 

If it won't run on ether, it's a spark issue. Doesn't mean you don't have other problems....

Check fuel pressure and codes, then report back.

Don't change anything until you do this.

 

So I pulled the codes and the only thing I got was 11 which is system ok. The battery was dead so I put another one in and attempted to crank it several times to see if I could get a code to appear but no luck. I did video me attempting to start it and I will post those videos, so you guys can hear it. My fuel pressure gauge broke and I could not get it to work. I believe I'm still having some fuel issues as well though. the only way I can check for fuel on the rail at the moment is to push the valve open. First few times I got nothing and had to bypass the fuel pump relay to get the pressure you will see in the video. I also sprayed fuel into the throttle body so you guys could hear that as well. I just don't want to throw parts at it although I've already blown $250 in parts. Thanks and sorry for the unedited video

 

 

Sounds like you only have compression on a few cylinders I had a 429 that sat awhile and valves got stuck in the guides bent every pushrod in it id check compression and see what u got

 

Listen to me very carefully. My dad just went through this on a 5.0

start lookin behind everything on the firewall- i cant remember what his was behind- but there is a relay that runs the high pressure pump- this is exactly what happens when it goes out- it seems like it wants to start but it cant quite get there.

Look around for it, if you cant find it let me know and ill call him to see where his was hidden at, but it was literally up behind something mounted on the firewall- its seriously like a 20 dollar fix.

 

it is trying to catch, so you would seem to have spark. you are going to have to rent, borrow or buy a fuel pressure gauge. the stream that you let out of the schraeder valve looks pretty weak. until you verify fuel pressure you will be continue to toss parts and chase your tail.
battery cables shouldn't get THAT hot. if you havent already done so, clean battery posts, clamps, grounds, charge battery overnight and avoid excessive cranking.

 

First step will be to get the battery fully charged. Definitely need to check for fuel pressure.

 

A littlw more backstory. Ive replaced the fuel pump relay and the eec relay already. I did have a bad fuel pump(maybe from sitting to long) in the front tank. Replaced it but i only get a short burst of 12 volts going to the pump. Ive got 12 volts going to the relay but the signal wire coming from the computer only supplys 12 volts momentarly even when cranking. The only way i can get the fuel to the rail is to jump the relay and put 12 volts directly to my wire that goes to the inertia/fuel selector switch. Hence the relay closes momentarily(a split second) then the signal wire loses voltage and the relay opens up. The realy is not bad i have tested it. From the way im reading the wiring diagram when you turn the key on the computer sends a 12 volt signal wire to the relays which cause them to close and feed a power supply to the fuel pump and the ignition system? Is the correct, Wiring is not my strongest point, am i on the right track with this?

 

Any idea on the location of the grounds that i need to check

 

Did you check fuel pressure? Gas in a spray bottle is much better than dumping it, or use starting fluid.

And yea, charge that battery.

 

Battery is on charge. Im off tomorrow and will see about getting a fuel pressure gauge. I think the pressure is low. Probabaly gonna need the high pressure pump and maybe a fuel filter. I popped a tiny whole in that bottle so it would spray out in a mist. I think the issue is spark and fuel. I may try to video the spark when i get off tonight

 

Thanks for the help so far guys

 

If the fuel pump relay does not close (make/pick) while cranking you have a computer problem.
This may be a bad PIP wire from the ICM/Distributor splice to the computer or a pushed out pin in the computer plug.
Sounds like you are getting the PIP to the ICM but not to the computer.