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I had always thought that the pitman arm and nut were visible from underneath the vehicle in order to count the splines on the box. On my truck (2000 F-250 4x4) it is not. There is a bracket of some sort in the way and it is completely blocked. I guess when it comes time for me to replace mine, I will block off about two weeks and just pull it out, then order the replacement after counting the splines and getting the proper pitman arm replacement.
Does anybody know of a cut off date when they changed that Pittman arm? For some reason I'm thinking that it's one of those E99 changes that took place between 12/98 and 3/99.
I think the pitman arm was the same for the years, but the difference is between the 4x4 and the 2x4 are different lengths. But, I could be wrong, which I am all the time...
If you are talking about the spline count, I believe it changed somewhere in 00-01, but it is always best to visually count them before ordering either part.
If it is 4x4 then you can probably do the job without stands.
Other than that, I would say jack each wheel up and remove them one at a time and put a stand under the axle as close to the outside as possible. Again, depending on if you truck is a 4x4 the driver side can be tricky.
If it is 4x4 then you can probably do the job without stands.
Other than that, I would say jack each wheel up and remove them one at a time and put a stand under the axle as close to the outside as possible. Again, depending on if you truck is a 4x4 the driver side can be tricky.
Can I do it on ramps? Thought maybe it would be more difficult with ramps. Also I just realized my pitman arm remover is conflicting with the fan shroud, guess I gotta remove it.
I guess I didn't think the whole ramp idea through. You will probably have to remove the drivers side wheel in order to get to the bolts and monkey around with the steering shaft. Unless you can levitate that side of the trucks, ramps probably won't work. You will have to figure a way to get that side on jack stands. Maybe put a second stand under the frame near the front of the cab wish 2x12's under the jack stand to bring it up to height. That stand under the frame will only serve as a just in case while the primary stand is under the axle.
I put Jack stands between the steering knuckle and springs on each side. For sure will want that front driver's side tire off. You also want front axle off the ground when you bleed the system at the end.
I've also read that cycling the wheel too fast side to side (it's very easy to do when the front tires are not touching the ground) can aerate the oil in the stabilizer. Depending on my level of interest and motivation I will either disconnect the steering stabilizer or just consciously turn the wheel slowly to work the air out of the system.
Can I do it on ramps? Thought maybe it would be more difficult with ramps. Also I just realized my pitman arm remover is conflicting with the fan shroud, guess I gotta remove it.
If you use ramps be sure that they're strong enough to hold your truck, these things are heavier than your average automobile. It was stated earlier that you can pull the box out with the Pittman arm attached, just unhook the other end of it from whatever it's hooked to, then you can manhandle it on the workbench.
If you use ramps be sure that they're strong enough to hold your truck, these things are heavier than your average automobile. It was stated earlier that you can pull the box out with the Pittman arm attached, just unhook the other end of it from whatever it's hooked to, then you can manhandle it on the workbench.
That can be an exercise in itself if you are trying to save the heim joint (especially the grease boot). A pickle fork is an easy evolution to pop it off the pitman arm. If you use a puller to pop it out then use a small one. There's not much room on top to maneuver around.
I believe that the actual spline COUNT on the output shaft is the same between the two, but the configuration is different. The later version has the splines in three seperate "groups" around the shaft with a small gap between them. Not sure about the year model break in design but mine is an '01 and has the later version. All that Red Head needed was the year model.
Well I finished it and had to time to run errands and test er out. Everything seems good. Feels so much better. Thanks for all the input. FTE is the ****.
Oh ya and the steering box already had stuff in it but it was clear????
Happy you got her done, and she's running right. I don't know about the fluid. Mine almost looked like it came in a blood filled minnow bag the was so much atf floating around. My buddy just did two of them for his farm fleet and they just had red stained pads under them.
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