Any help is much appreciated. Looks like a pia but nothing too crazy.I don't have a pitman arm puller, but can borrow one.

 

You'll want the puller. It's not that bad of a job, just oily. I removed the driver's battery/tray/intake as well as the driver's side CAC tube. It wasn't too bad of a job.

This is how I flush the system anytime I fill it or want to flush the old fluid out:

 

There are two different spline counts based on the year of your truck. Also, as I understand it the shaft is keyed and can be a bit tricky getting it back into the gear/box assembly.

I have not done this yet on my truck, but have read a lot about it.

 

You are right, there are two different spline counts for our truck. I don't remember when the changeover happened.

As for the keyed shaft I lined it up for the pitman arm before connecting the steering shaft so I didn't have a problem.

 

I put a red head into my truck about a week ago. So it's still pretty fresh in my mind.

For sure pull the battery tray air cleaner assembly.

I thought it helped a lot to pull the driver's side CAC tube. I wish I'd started it that way. But my hands and arms are a little bigger than average.

when you pull the hydraulic lines. Bend them way up so they're higher than the resivior and they won't bleed as much.

Get the pitman arm puller.

If your truck has any rust the pitman arm isn't coming off the out put shaft without a bigger snap on style puller. I had to give up and bring it to a mechanic to get it off. After I broke the one from orielys. Even then it was 20 min of impact and pounding before it decided to let loose.

Leave the frame bolts loose until you get the steering shaft on.

Loctite the frame bolts one at a time after the box is in place and the shaft is on. This is when you should torque it down.

If you lose the rubber orings on the end of the steering lines. They're two different sizes. I wish I could tell you what they are but I forgot.

If you use a redhead or follow their bleeding instructions be ready with a couple open quarts of atf when you start the truck. Mine sucked down a quart and a half as fast as I could pour it.

don't shut the truck of in the middle of bleeding because you weren't ready with the next quart. It'll burp everywhere.

Long large funnel would be nice.

Have floor dry. You'll use it.

If your in the cold parts of the world don't do it in your unheated garage when it's -10F

That's probably most of what I wish I'd known. Works great now. But I wish you better luck than I had.

 

Thanks for all the advice guys. Joef250 that was the kind of input I was hoping for, thanks man! Just put the order in so standby, I'm sure I'll be back with a headache and questions.

 

Somebody rep JoeF250 for me, I'm in jail. Great info there Joe!

Like my 02 yours should be a 36 spline (vs 32). But hey, this right here is just internet spew so count your own.

Inspect and consider replacing the pressure side hose. It can rub on the shock mount and crap out at a bad time. Protect it with split heater hose.

Getting the pitman arm off can be a real bugger. Never did get mine off, and the shop pretty much melted it before giving up. Luckily Red Head took the box as core anyway. Pitman arms are two lengths 2x4 vs 4x4 and when I did mine the correct length was not available. Not a huge issue but I can feel the difference.

There was a recall on your Toyos, check if yours fall under it.

 

I pushed a few points in Joe's direction. I haven;t done mine yet, but sitting at almost 290K right now, I can see it looming in the future and always keep my eye out for steering box threads so I can be mentally prepared to respond in case I hit the failure point before I do it proactively.

 

It can definitely be stubborn. I sprayed mine with PB Blaster for a couple of days before I did the job. I think I used a larger puller and I was really cranking on the 1/2" breaker bar. When I was just about to give up because it felt like I was going to break the truck in half then *BANG* it popped off.

 

Do you get the box out with the Pittman arm attached, or does the arm have to come off in order to get the box out of the truck?

 

You can get the box out with the pitman arm still on no problem. I realize now that I didn't mention it earlier but I had my gearbox in a vise when I pulled the arm off. Not enough leverage with it in the truck and I was afraid of what I might damage if something let go or I slipped (including me). I clamped it in a vise when I used the puller to get the arm off.

I had to let it sit overnight to get all of the ATF out of it before shipping it back as the core. If your gear isn't too shot you should be able to move it with your hand. Repeatedly going lock to lock will help expedite the fluid draining process.

 

I used to sell penetrating lubes when I worked for Schaeffer some years back, and I did a LOT of research and comparative testing on over a dozen different penetrating lube products, most of which are industrial grade and not available in box stores..

I always see a lot of references to PB Blaster, and it IS better than WD-40, but there are much better products available in single can purchases. Most are typically mail order items, though, or only available at industrial supply houses. The one I know first hand to be the BEST of anything I ever tested is Penetro 90 from Schaeffer Manufacturing. Each can will outlast at least 10 cans of WD-40 or PB Blaster. It smells almost as bad as PB Blaster, but is much faster acting, much longer lasting, and takes very little to work. Since it is almost always only available in case quantities, it's really not a practical option for most folks unless you do a group buy kind of thing. Sometimes, though, you can find it in small independent auto parts stores where you can get it in single can quantities.

However, if I were looking for only 1-2 cans of something to replace (and outperform PB Blaster), I would order something from Kano Labs (Kroil, AeorKroil, or SiliKroil). They also other high quality automotive related products.

NOTE: I do NOT represent either Schaeffer, Kano, or any other lubricant or supply company, so I have absolutely nothing to gain by sharing the above, and am just passing on my experience in hopes it can help others.

 

Don't let the steering wheel go around-and-around on any airbag equipped vehicle, when you pull the steering box, or you can damage the clock spring. Run the seat belt through the wheel and buckle it up.

 

Go to the Excursion forum.

Click the Read First: sticky thread titled "Tech Folder" > Scroll down to the 2nd post in the thread > " Suspension, Steering, Brakes, Wheels, Tires, Axles, Hubs, Transmission/Driveline" > "Steering, Sway Bars, Tie Rods" > Red Head Steering Box Install 2 (7.3L PSD)

Write-up with pictures in that link.

Stewart

 

Thanks Stewart, I'll check out the write up. Is there a big difference in quality between the redhead and like the Napa one? The price for the redhead was a too much for me. I put an order in for the NAPA one but havent paid yet.