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We use regular #4 sand here. We do not blast interiors and individual components are blasted on the exterior only. Top surfaces rarely expose any areas that sand can be lodged into. Pressure is about 120 psi with a wide pattern nozzle pointed at a angle. The blasting itself will not cause warping. Heat from friction will. Just as using a DA in just one spot. Every panel is DA'd after blasting. As I said in a earlier post, Most of the vehicles we work on have had many coats of paint and tend to have lots of hail damage. Something that we experience quite a bit of here in West Texas.
I'm opting for the sand smooth then cover with primer. So I should spray primer sealer over the oem paint, then primer surfacer, then paint? I also have the same question as was posted about. If I accidentally sand to bare metal in a few small spots, can I cover that with rattle can etching primer or what's my best option? Thanks
I'm opting for the sand smooth then cover with primer. So I should spray primer sealer over the oem paint, then primer surfacer, then paint? I also have the same question as was posted about. If I accidentally sand to bare metal in a few small spots, can I cover that with rattle can etching primer or what's my best option? Thanks
you wouldn't need to put a sealer over your paint.
Just sand smooth the imperfections,
roughen the rest of the truck, 150 grit
apply an epoxy primer,
Use a Primer that is color recommended for your final color
block smooth (till your satisfied)
you can use a HIGH BUILD primer so you have room to block it down
(Your going to end up with 65-70% of it on the floor)
IF your changing colors or use two or three different colored primers THEN use a primer sealer.
apply color then clear.
a primer sealer is primarily used to prevent color bleed thru form bottom to top
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