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I'm starting prep work on my truck and am wondering what I should do about this. The original paint is burgundy, and the coat under that is the white that you see. How should I go about sanding this smooth? These spots are only on the hood, top of cab, etc. Only places where there's excess sun exposure I'd assume. Should I just sand it or is there a better way? Will I be okay spraying primer over this once it's smooth? Thanks in advance
I would get it all the way down the bare metal. Sand Blasting would be the easiest. Paint Stripper works good as well. But all of the paint on that hood should be removed.
Ironically, I was taking a break from painting when I read this.
Don't take it down to bare metal. Only down to bare metal where you need to add filler/fix dents.
Gets some 150 grit on a DA and sand down to the original paint. Yes, remove all of the burgundy. Then, with some 220 grit, sand the base paint thin enough that you can almost see the factory primer through it. (If you sand to bare metal, you will have to spray etching primer, which is expensive, a PITA, and requires a an absolutely perfectly clean and moisture free surface if you want it to adhere properly.) Avoid bare metal when you can. )
This is your optimum base and profile for primer adhesion. Assuming that you've fixed your dents, rust etc. Wipe the hood down thoroughly with prepzol, then a tack rag. you may now lay down your primer sealer. Block sand that smooth to get the waves out, go forth with your filler primer, then paint.
Good paint work takes TONS of time, labor and an eye for detail. There are no shortcuts if you want it to look good.
Concur with hail destroyer. Original enamel is a.good base if it is decent condition. Seal it up and move forward with surfacers and top coats. Agree with bare metal when using body filler cuz it doesn't adhere correctly to paint.
I would get it all the way down the bare metal. Sand Blasting would be the easiest. Paint Stripper works good as well. But all of the paint on that hood should be removed.
You don't want to SAND BLAST any panels as that can warp the panels. For blasting they use something other than sand.
As for paint striper if you don't get ALL OF IT OFF, read in cracks & nooks, it will lift anything that is put on top of it. Only time I would use stripper is if there are so many coats of paint & primer sanding will take for ever and I am doing a full repaint, door jams, etc. and even then there are other ways to take it down to a good base as explained in the below post.
Originally Posted by hail destroyer
Ironically, I was taking a break from painting when I read this.
Don't take it down to bare metal. Only down to bare metal where you need to add filler/fix dents.
Gets some 150 grit on a DA and sand down to the original paint. Yes, remove all of the burgundy. Then, with some 220 grit, sand the base paint thin enough that you can almost see the factory primer through it. (If you sand to bare metal, you will have to spray etching primer, which is expensive, a PITA, and requires a an absolutely perfectly clean and moisture free surface if you want it to adhere properly.) Avoid bare metal when you can. )
This is your optimum base and profile for primer adhesion. Assuming that you've fixed your dents, rust etc. Wipe the hood down thoroughly with prepzol, then a tack rag. you may now lay down your primer sealer. Block sand that smooth to get the waves out, go forth with your filler primer, then paint.
Good paint work takes TONS of time, labor and an eye for detail. There are no shortcuts if you want it to look good.
Good luck
X3 you only need to get down to a good base that the new primer & paint can bite into.
Eastwood sells large stripping pads think like 9" or little larger. This will take it down to metal if you want but if you move over the panels fast it will remove the loose & flaking paint then hit it with the DA sander to smooth it out for the sealer/primer cost as above.
Dave ----
If you choose to strip the panel down to bare metal, I use these with a my angle grinder. I only wish I would have found these sooner in my build, I started out using sand paper which took forever. These guys make short work and easy to work with. I like this brand as I seem to get more stripped per pad than the ones I was buying from the hardware store.
If you don't have access to power tools or a compressor big enough to run them: 220 grit wet & dry sandpaper, & a sanding block, about 3" X 6". Lots of water with a touch of soap in it, elbow grease , & a little time. Drop down to 320 or 400 paper when you are just about thru the burgundy.
Still not sure if I should go to bare metal. I don't think I'm going to. What's the best primer to put over the old paint? I was planning on using high build primer but maybe that's not the best option. Also, do I go straight to paint after the primer or do I have to use sealer? Can you maybe give me a list of what order to do stuff? Thanks
You'll need to apply a sealer over the oem paint.. then onward to surfacer. Stick with the same manufacturer to ensure compatibility with each successive layer.
You don't want to SAND BLAST any panels as that can warp the panels. For blasting they use something other than sand.
As for paint striper if you don't get ALL OF IT OFF, read in cracks & nooks, it will lift anything that is put on top of it. Only time I would use stripper is if there are so many coats of paint & primer sanding will take for ever and I am doing a full repaint, door jams, etc. and even then there are other ways to take it down to a good base as explained in the below post.
X3 you only need to get down to a good base that the new primer & paint can bite into.
Eastwood sells large stripping pads think like 9" or little larger. This will take it down to metal if you want but if you move over the panels fast it will remove the loose & flaking paint then hit it with the DA sander to smooth it out for the sealer/primer cost as above.
Dave ----
Sand blasting done correctly will not warp panels. We do it quite a bit here at our shop. Also we take most all panels down to bare metal. Yes you need a good etching primer but the best and longest lasting result does cost and takes time.
It isn't a Ford but one we have nearly finished. This was sand blasted entirely. Its a frame off restoration. Due to hail and several coats of paint it required taking every panel down to bare metal. No panels were warped sand blasting. 35 years experience doing this type of work. Never warped a single panel yet.
Sand is not an acceptable blast media for sheet metal.
If that green truck is supposed to be a good example of something, I don't see it.
Any kind of blasting can warp panels. Maybe a shop with experience can set a low volume and low pressure and take their time and have minimal warpage, but you are giving advice to thousands of regular people!
Sand starts rust where it lodges.
I offer our example;
Plastic media, broad sections sanded to reduce warping:
I don't see many people going to this extent. This is overkill for most people. The best way because this is a ford and not a chevy and therefore has enamel paint, is to gently sand by hand to good paint and start there, to avoid damaging the metal surfaces if you aren't sure about it.
Aluminum oxide stripper discs, orbital sanders can warp metal if used too liberally on broad or flat surfaces.
Honestly, having restored many high-end musclecars over the years, and fixing others' mistakes, I can tell you, without a doubt, the "BARE METAL OR NOTHING!" approach usually results in disaster MOST ESPECIALLY to a guy doing his first paint job.
Stripper and acid dipped cars continue to "burn" even after the soda wash in cracks and crevices.
Sand and media blasted cars hide pockets of media that attract moisture and result in rust through, as well as warping panels.
Grinding works, if at low speed/low pressure with the appropriate grit. Even then, you now have an enormous task of ensuring the bare metal is ABSOLUTELY ultra clean, ultra dry with no grinding gouges, and the hassle of using expensive, caustic difficult etching primer.
Good info in this thread. Question on the etching primer, say you sand down to good paint/primerbut you have some spots of bare metal (where you either sanded through or hadto do some body work)…is an etching primer necessary for just those spots?If so, could you rattle can those with anetching primer before priming/sealing and still get good results?
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