My doorlock switches aren't working, none of them, I depend on them seeing as how the key is hard to unlock all the doors, it's almost like it doesn't fit, so I like to use it to open one, then hit the button to unlock all the doors from there. I pulled the drivers door switch and checked it with my ohm meter, it functions as it should, so I can only guess there is no power getting to it, I have already been through all the fuses. I have no idea if this van came with remotes, I bought it used, and I wasn't given then nor info on whether it had it, it's an E350 with all the bells and whistles tho. I have searched the internet looking for a door lock relay, best I come up with is behind the dash over the heater passenger side, rather than start tearing this thing apart anyone else have any ideas, as I said the rocker switch functions as it should, I found no fault or short through it.

 

dont know if any of this will help or not...
Ford E350 Econoline Super Wgn my power locks quit working

Bulletin from Ford that apples to the E-350 that might be relevant.
I have a 98 e350 super duty 15 pass van. The driver door will

heres some more info
1999 Ford Econoline Car Alarm Wiring Diagram

Power Door Lock Negative Wire (-): Red (5 Wire Reverse Polarity). If vehicle has a factory keyless entry, pink/yellow is lock, and pink/light green is unlock, it is a negative (-) door locking system, if vehicle is without a factory keyless it is a 5 wire reverse polarity system and you must test from the passengers lock/unlock switch this switch is the master switch.
Power Door Lock Negative Wire Location: In Either Kick Panel
Power Door Unlock Negative Wire (-): Brown (5 Wire Reverse Polarity). If vehicle has a factory keyless entry, pink/yellow is lock, and pink/light green is unlock, it is a negative (-) door locking system, if vehicle is without a factory keyless it is a 5 wire reverse polarity system and you must test from the passengers lock/unlock switch this switch is the master switch.
Power Door Unlock Negative Wire Location: In Either Kick Panel
1999 Ford Econoline Car Alarm Wiring Diagram


NOTE #1: If vehicle has a FACTORY KEYLESS ENTRY, PINK/YELLOW is LOCK, and PINK/LIGHT GREEN is UNLOCK, it is a TYPE B Door Locking System, if vehicle is without a FACTORY KEYLESS it is a TYPE C System and you MUST TEST from the PASSENGERS LOCK/UNLOCK SWITCH this switch is the MASTER SWITCH. NOTE #2: The ANTI-THEFT Module is located behind the DRIVERS SIDE "B" Pillar. NOTE #3: The CTO Test Connector is located all by itself, it is labled "CTO" Test above the BRAKE BOOSTER on the drivers side of engine compartment.

1997-2003 Ford Econoline Vehicle Wiring Chart and Diagram




I noticed here you said
"I have a remote start that taps into the door locks, I've yet to finish the install.:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8860054


Did you get it installed?

 

Thank you, everywhere I looked it had me pulling what were the wrong fuse, the one to the locks is top, far right, obscured by the steel dash bracket, and near impossible to get pliers on because of it, then reinstalling is much more fun as you can't use pliers, see it, or get both hands in there. I am concerned why the fuse blew, there is no corrosion on the switches, I know, I've had them out, except the one in the rear door.
I have not installed the remote start, the only thing done is the pigtail was put in the harness under the steering column, not touched the door locks as I had no intention of trying something and messing it up, I need to get it all put in one day, but I've had other priorities.

 

You said the switch is working properly(continuity), but is it getting power. On mine, the wire broke where it goes through the bellows from the body to the door.You have to take the door panel off to check the wiring.

 

It was the fuse, every website I found had me pulling the wrong ones, the link posted above by annaleigh had an image of the fuse panel, with the correct location on it, it also had the test procedure if your fuse is not the problem.

 

I guess if it is working after you changed the fuse,, you will need to be very vigilant at paying attention to what you are doing if or when the fuse blows again.

I didn't take the time to do an indepth study on your system and I am used to the older solenoid type actuators. If it is working fine now, that might rule out a direct short so it would have to be something intermittent or something you haven't activated. Did you try each switch individually? Or perhaps as Rick1025 already posted, one of the wires when you open one of the doors.. Then there is the TSB about the rear door leak..
Hard to find a problem when its not there!

 

If I remember correctly, it was out before, took 10 years to blow again so it can't be too bad, I am gonna be paying attention tho, it must be common because the link above has you checking for a short.

 

Well I really have no clue about how the newer locks work and just stumbled across the info that helped you out and thought, maybe this will help...I thought they were a solenoid type device but see the diagrams are calling them door lock motor. I have never had problems with any of my door locks but have rebuilt the door window motor gear box on my town car.
But ,, just a thought.. I believe you said the locks were hard to turn with the key? IF so, could that be causing extra amp draw? Perhaps a combination of activating the door locks at the same time something else on that circuit is used? Arent the windows on that circuit too?
Perhaps the only way to test would be to check the amp draw on each lock and window motor. lower both windows at the same time while hitting the door locks with the dome lights on? again I am not sure what all is on that circuit..


Actually I did a little more checking into how they work and was surprised to learn that you can actually buy a replacement motor for under $3
providing it is not one of the gears that would be a cheap fix! I would clean and grease everything if I were to take it apart..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/9mm-Round-Shaft-FC-280PC-Door-Lock-Motor-Actuator-Repair-12500-RPM-Universal/371514992708?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D38530%26meid%3Dc8e542c67cbc4131ab94c930f56d3e47%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D371788968379

Not sure if they are all the same but here is one taken apart.

 

The locks aren't stiff, I pull up the little rod on the passenger side, the key wont turn due to it not tripping the tumblers, gotta fidget with it to get it all lined up, making new keys isn't the answer when the factory one must be too worn to fit right, tonight I bout threw a fit as the key refused to line up in the passenger door lock.
I told dad the other night, time to get my remote start hooked up and the locks to that, use a fob to open them up, or I'll need to order a key from Ford using the VIN.

 

You didn't state what year your vans is. I had a similar problem with my 2000 E150. Turns out it was the back door power switch was corroded. Replaced it and about a year later same thing. Pulled the switch and capped the wires , problem never came back.
good luck.JKaz

 

It's a 99, I may pull the one in the back door to check for corrosion, it's a pain because I have trouble with the top trim, hard to reach when you can't stand up.