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EPBV Delete in Cali....

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Old Jan 9, 2017 | 10:11 AM
  #16  
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BTW, love those up pipes in IDIoit's picture. Beautiful.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2017 | 10:17 AM
  #17  
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Fixed my posting. I set my my brakes to aggressive when entering that hill
 
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Old Jan 9, 2017 | 12:56 PM
  #18  
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GEugeneS
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76
Fixed my posting. I set my my brakes to aggressive when entering that hill
I understand. Well, I like the part about less chance of oil leaks, but I would still be nervous of any kind of continuous braking to hold my rig back, truck or trailer, on those longer, steeper grades.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2017 | 01:03 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by GEugeneS
Just curious as to what you gain by the delete. For most of us in California, except those that live or travel in the Sierra's or SoCals San Bernardino Mountains, I guess a quick warm up is not necessary, but with the delete, you also lose the ability to use the EBPV as an exhaust brake. So again, what do you gain?
Eliminating a large butterfly valve that presents a flow restriction, even when open.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2017 | 02:20 PM
  #20  
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I just left the solenoid plugged in.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2017 | 05:50 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by brian42
Eliminating a large butterfly valve that presents a flow restriction, even when open.

How much of a flow restriction does it present? Has anyone actually measured? And assuming there is a measurable restriction, how meaningful is it? I'd have to see some data before assuming that the butterfly valve in the fully open position actually presented a meaningful restriction, or a deleterious effect on performance.

It may seem obvious to some... something is there, therefore it is in the way, therefore it is a restriction... but what very little I've been able to absorb in dribs and drabs over the years about temperature, fluid dynamics, and flow effects has realigned a lot of my former assumptions that I previously would have considered basic.

Has anyone ever posted any measurable data on the restrictive effects of a properly functioning EBPV?
 
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Old Jan 9, 2017 | 09:45 PM
  #22  
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Truck just passed smog with EBPV hooked up. However I just order a delete pedestal from riffraff and will start pulling this apart to do a complete reseal on the top of the motor.I'm only doing this to fix a oil leak and to prevent them in the future this thing make more then enough power. But if it pick up a few ponies I will not be complaining.

BTW

During the smog she checked for fault codes. Looked at the stick on the valve cover. And check to make sure it didn't have any smoke. which means no fault codes means they didn't look very hard for anything else. I see no reason why a truck wouldn't pass without the EBPV as long as you can prevent a fault code. I will be doing a the resistor trick because I decided to buy the delete pedestal that eliminate the solenoid.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2017 | 10:05 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by ebbnflow
I live in NORCAL and have had the EPBV deleted for several years. Never had an issue with smog. Mine is a Cali model, so it sets a hard code with it unplugged. I added a resistor in the connector and all has been well since.
Can you tell me more about the resistor mod. I had a dongle in there, but I noticed the other day that it's gone. I assumed it would be in the valley, but no go. Anyhow, I'd like to know how to do this, and any pictures would help.
On Edit: I found the resistor mod with pictures, I just had to google it
 
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Old Jan 9, 2017 | 10:34 PM
  #24  
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The solenoid coil slides off the EBPV actuator, or whatever it's called. It is similar to the IPR solenoid that slides off after removing the tin nut. No need for a resistor.

Emissions test where I live in WA are similar to yours it seems. We also have a snap test to check for opacity. Ended up taking it to red line about 9 times while the unscrewed themselves and their machine.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2017 | 11:12 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by countrycar
Can you tell me more about the resistor mod. I had a dongle in there, but I noticed the other day that it's gone. I assumed it would be in the valley, but no go. Anyhow, I'd like to know how to do this, and any pictures would help.
On Edit: I found the resistor mod with pictures, I just had to google it
Looks like you found it but for other that may be looking. 1 dollar resister and some tape or shrink tube is all you need to do it.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-install.html
 
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Old Jan 9, 2017 | 11:14 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by echo95
The solenoid coil slides off the EBPV actuator, or whatever it's called. It is similar to the IPR solenoid that slides off after removing the tin nut. No need for a resistor.

Emissions test where I live in WA are similar to yours it seems. We also have a snap test to check for opacity. Ended up taking it to red line about 9 times while the unscrewed themselves and their machine.
When I have it apart I will look to see how easy it is to remove the solenoid. But I still think the $1 resistor is the way to go for a little cleaner install.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2017 | 08:40 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 1leg
During the smog she checked for fault codes. Looked at the stick on the valve cover. And check to make sure it didn't have any smoke. which means no fault codes means they didn't look very hard for anything else. I see no reason why a truck wouldn't pass without the EBPV as long as you can prevent a fault code. I will be doing a the resistor trick because I decided to buy the delete pedestal that eliminate the solenoid.
They still hook up to the computer which is connected to the state. It checks for any codes (that set the Check Engine Light) and turns the Check Engine Light on to make sure you haven't disabled it. I think it might also check the emissions sensors too but I'm not sure. Since it's hooked to the state the shop has no fudge factor to pass you on that. If you've disconnected your batteries and have not driven very far then you might fail because all of the self-tests might not have completed and registered the results in the computer.

The visual inspection and 'snap test' are all subjective to the technician at the shop. Some look harder under the hood than others. The 'snap test' requires the shop to rev the engine quickly to 3000 rpm three times (one initial one to clear things out then two to judge smoke output).

If you can pass the computer portion then the rest is up to the shop.

The best part is that those 20 minutes (10 minutes to do the test and 10 minutes to enter your vehicle data for the certificate) still cost $50.
 
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