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Yes, I searched. No, I did not find a definitive answer.
1991 F-250. 302 V-8, 5 speed. Truck was purchased bone stock, with bad compression in 1 cylinder. Unsure why, am tearing it down, for a complete re-build. I have seen some forums mentioning to delete the smog pump, lines, etc. Other say don't, it will throw a code. Others say no it wont. Right now the motor is completely stock. Even still has the original vacuum lines, all in good shape, and stickers on the fuel lines. PO had no idea how to check and add oil, and, believe he blew a head gasket. So, my question. Is there a way to completely delete the smog pump, and all associated vacuum lines, without harming the trucks mileage, or runnability? No emissions required in my area, To clarify, I don't want any of the red, green, plastic lines, smog pump, or any associated parts. Will be mildly building the motor for towing, and want it to be as easy to build, run, and maintain, as possible. Will not be considering the 5.8 swap either.
Any easy answers?
You can delete.
There are codes for some Air Management (Smog) Solenoid circuits.
So, if you disconnect these electrical circuits, you will receive codes (when you check) but they won’t affect the engine. But, you don't have to disconnect the Solenoids unless you want them out of the engine compartment.
Deleting vacuum lines is no issue, just cap and plug the potential vacuum leaks as required.
Recommend you check for codes now, before you disassemble, see where you stand.
The EGR delete is a similar but different issue.
I believe even if your area dosnt make you smog you still have to pass a smog inspection with transfer of ownership. And for the smog pump just leave it or you could hurt your cat beings that your taking away oxygen from your cat not allowing it to properly catalys. Plus it’s just a air pump. But I’m also a legal smog technician for California
I believe even if your area dosnt make you smog you still have to pass a smog inspection with transfer of ownership. But I’m also a legal smog technician for California
Spoken like a true Californian.
The world does not follow CA in everything. You need to see what happens in your state. Mine doesn't care nor does it have a smog inspection in the SW portion, however in the Northern VA area they have a smog inspection.
I believe even if your area dosnt make you smog you still have to pass a smog inspection with transfer of ownership. And for the smog pump just leave it or you could hurt your cat beings that your taking away oxygen from your cat not allowing it to properly catalys. Plus it’s just a air pump. But I’m also a legal smog technician for California
Depends on where you are. Here in MA there's no smog / emissions check.
Thanks for the replies. So, vjsimone, if I understand you correctly, just plug the fittings, and I am good to go? Or leave the electrical part plugged in, and ignore the check engine? Can't check for codes, as I have already started to pull the motor. Any idea on correct belt size to bypass the smog pump? Do I need to change my timing when I rebuild/start the motor?
The world does not follow CA in everything. You need to see what happens in your state. Mine doesn't care nor does it have a smog inspection in the SW portion, however in the Northern VA area they have a smog inspection.
I will also be doing the same, deleting the smog pump and other EGR lines. From what I have researched on here, there isnt an issue with just deleting the lines, just be sure to not plug the line that feeds the EGR valve. Leave that on and just route that line to another part of the engine. It needs to open and close so that it does not throw a code for that particular part. I was planning on deleting it all and just having the EGR feed tube routed to somewhere in the intake manifold. Im hoping it wont be an issue. If anything, I may just leave it open to atmosphere or run a small 1/2 inch line to the intake box. Im also in Texas so im not worried about emissions.
yeah, when I was living and working in alexandria for a few years, I kept my car registered at my sisters in va beach, so I only had to do the safety part of the st. insp. in NOVA..
if I understand you correctly, just plug the fittings, and I am good to go? Or leave the electrical part plugged in, and ignore the check engine?
You should cap off the vacuum sources to the vacuum devices you remove, remove the device and the vacuum line that supplies vacuum.
If you are physically removing devices, then they will be unplugged, you will get codes, but once you document what they are, then no reason to worry, subtract them when you check codes.
If you are not removing devices just leave them plugged in.
You have to plug the tube going to the Cat if it is still attached.
Are you deleting the EGR as well ?
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