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Old Jan 2, 2017 | 06:55 PM
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Brake conversion questions

So I have a 73 Ford F-250 high boy that I recently swapped the front axle out that had drums on for a Dana 44 with dual piston calipers from I think a 77 or 78 f250 but it still doesn't feel like it has the braking power it should and it won't push my brake pedal back out when I let off so I was wondering if there is something else I have to change or what's wrong
 
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Old Jan 2, 2017 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Creamsicle88
So I have a 73 Ford F-250 high boy that I recently swapped the front axle out that had drums on for a Dana 44 with dual piston calipers from I think a 77 or 78 f250 but it still doesn't feel like it has the braking power it should and it won't push my brake pedal back out when I let off so I was wondering if there is something else I have to change or what's wrong
Did you swap the proportioning valve?
Drum brakes don't use a proportioning valve, but vehicles with front disc/rear drums need one.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2017 | 07:59 PM
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My truck does have a proportion valve on it from the drum brakes but I didn't swap it when I swapped the axle
 
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Old Jan 2, 2017 | 08:10 PM
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I have a 75. I was dissatisfied with my brakes for years. I was never sure of them, and always a bit timid regarding stopping.

Finally, I changed to 4x disc. Still, it wasn't quite good enough, and that was with the dual diaphram vacuum booster. Then I swapped in a hydroboost system.

It was night and day! One of, if not THE best, mod I have done. Nothing scares me now. It gave me the brakes of a new vehicle.

The only shortcoming was losing the parking brake, and I'm working on that.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2017 | 09:47 PM
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It all has to work together. MAster cylinder and pedal and booster, rod length, proportioning valve, does your master cylinder have proper diameter to handle the dual piston calipers? Does the truck have power brakes or manual? All this needs to taken into account. I faught brakes for years, finally tore proportioning valve down, was basically totally ruined. I replaced with a genuine original, works totally different [better than ever] never thought that was the issue.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 08:14 AM
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I'm not really trying to spend money on a whole new system right. Now I'm just trying to figure out which part or parts I need to replace to match what this needs
 
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 08:20 AM
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Did you swap over to a disc brake master cyl?? For discs.....the MC needs to displace more fluid volume than for drums......
 
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Creamsicle88
My truck does have a proportion valve on it from the drum brakes but I didn't swap it when I swapped the axle
Actually, when you have 4 wheel drum brakes, that's not a proportioning valve, all that is is a brake pressure differential valve. Basically all it is is a junction block for a place to mount the brake failure warning switch, there's no proportioning function.
Drum brakes don't really need a proportioning valve, disc brakes do. Discs take much higher pressure to operate than drum brakes. So you need the valve to keep the rear brakes from locking up before the fronts begin to stop.
Not saying that's your problem, but like others have said, the system needs to be balanced with the correct components.
If you have manual brakes, I would expect to need a lot higher pedal effort with disc vs. drum brakes.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 09:53 AM
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Thank you all for the info I still have the vaccum booster master cylinder and no proportioning valve from what I understand now from the same setup for the 1973 style drum brakes. So from what I understand is the put the porportioning valve in from the 78 ford truck and if that doesn't completely fix it swap the master cylinder too. I wouldn't assume the booster to be part of the problem
 
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 10:27 AM
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You'll also need to swap the master cylinder. Master cylinders for drum brakes are different from the disc/drum cylinder.
 
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