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Old Sep 18, 2012 | 12:02 AM
  #1  
SuperDuty93's Avatar
SuperDuty93
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Brake Question...

Its the usual, mushy/spongy brake pedal. They stop the truck but they feel like it would be hard to stop with a heavy load in the back. Its a 1974 f250 4X4 Regular Cab.

Now here is a 2nd question that relates to the first. The PO put a Dana 44 up front with discs replacing the old axle with drums. So the truck now has front discs and rear drums. Would this swapping of the front to discs have anything to do with the mushy brakes?

Is there any way to get rid of the mushy brakes and get it to stop quicker with less force on the pedal like with the newer trucks?

Any info will help. And yes the lines and all have been bleed and there are no air bubbles.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2012 | 12:14 AM
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wyckedcombo17
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The front disc swap could contribute if they didn't switch to a quick take up MC with a disc reservoir.

Another factor is the fact you're running 35" tires on there. More rotating mass takes longer to stop
 
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Old Sep 18, 2012 | 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by wyckedcombo17
The front disc swap could contribute if they didn't switch to a quick take up MC with a disc reservoir.

Another factor is the fact you're running 35" tires on there. More rotating mass takes longer to stop

Yea i thought about the whole 35" thing but it still seems like it should stop a whole lot sooner and i should have some more braking power

Whats a "quick take up MC with a disc reservoir"?
 
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Old Sep 18, 2012 | 11:29 AM
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X2 on using the disc/drum MC

drum/drum setups use a distribution block, disc/drum setups require a proportioning valve

did the PO install a prop valve during the swap?

there's more to it then just swapping a drum brake axle for a disc brake axle.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2012 | 12:06 PM
  #5  
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Ok from what I was told it seems like he just threw the new axle on. Does anyone have part number for where I can look up and order the parts if need be?

Also what's hydro assist brakes? Heard it has something to do with power steering???
 
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Old Sep 18, 2012 | 04:30 PM
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Since you mentioned proportioning valve, is there a special tool to push in the bleeder rod? Haynes manual says this needs to be done if the system has been opened up, like changing master cylinder. My pedal goes to the floor as well. Also where could a guy get on of these proportioning valves. This truck is 77 f250 supercab.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2012 | 09:03 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by soulwinner
Since you mentioned proportioning valve, is there a special tool to push in the bleeder rod? Haynes manual says this needs to be done if the system has been opened up, like changing master cylinder. My pedal goes to the floor as well. Also where could a guy get on of these proportioning valves. This truck is 77 f250 supercab.
Your supposed to pull the pin out an hold it out while you bleed the brakes. For what its worth, I didnt do it after working on my brakes (wasnt aware); new MC, wheel cylinders etc and my brakes work great. After bleeding and removing the clip or whatever you used to hold pin out, you turn the key on and mash the pedal and the pin should self center.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2012 | 10:26 PM
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Anyone used this? Also what would i need with it? (do i need a booster unit? as in round thing MC is connected to)

Hydraulic Brake Setup With Lineset

Master Cylinder For Hydroboost Disc/Drum
 
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