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Old Dec 26, 2016 | 11:48 AM
  #1  
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Power windows

Ok guys , it's my turn, while out site seeing my back seat power window don't work , the control from drivers seat or from the back seat door control, I popped both covers on the control switch and both are firmly plugged in, I don't have my meter with me to see if power is running back to the switch , this morning I'll try to switch out the two back seat controls to see if I can get at least that window to go down , 04 350 , would there be a fuse for each or is it in the switch in the door that the harness plugs into , that's the only window that won't go down , Thanks Guys .
 
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Old Dec 26, 2016 | 01:21 PM
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Both rears not working? You didn't hit the lock out on the drivers door controls by any chance.? Sounds stupid but I did it to myself once.


Missed that you said only one window not working. Back to square one.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2016 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by duste
Both rears not working? You didn't hit the lock out on the drivers door controls by any chance.? Sounds stupid but I did it to myself once.


Missed that you said only one window not working. Back to square one.
He said from drivers door and back seat door.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2016 | 01:35 PM
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The most LOGICAL cause, would be where the harness runs through the rubber flexible cover from the body to the door itself has one of the power window wires broken. All a power window is, is a simple circuit that supplies B+ on one side of the motor and B- on the other side to function, and switching the two polarities to function in the other direction. The switch itself is what directs B+ and B- to the appropriate sides of the circuit depending on the desired operation.

Resist the temptation to "shotgun" a power window motor and/or switch to repair the problem without first diagnosing B+ and B- are present where they need to be.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2016 | 01:40 PM
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1 fuse location from what I see , #47 30 amp breaker , pulling the door panel may be the quickest way to sourcing the trouble .
 
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Old Dec 26, 2016 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by m-chan68
The most LOGICAL cause, would be where the harness runs through the rubber flexible cover from the body to the door itself has one of the power window wires broken. All a power window is, is a simple circuit that supplies B+ on one side of the motor and B- on the other side to function, and switching the two polarities to function in the other direction. The switch itself is what directs B+ and B- to the appropriate sides of the circuit depending on the desired operation.

Resist the temptation to "shotgun" a power window motor and/or switch to repair the problem without first diagnosing B+ and B- are present where they need to be.
On my older Fords it was always the hollow nylon tubes inside the motor drive that wore out. I found some solid nylon tubing and cut new pieces. They never wore out after that.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2016 | 06:14 PM
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Haven't had a chance to dig into this yet , on vacation and my wife has us driving every where but in a river , hmmmm , I unplugged the rear and front control didn't seem to work , I just haven't switched the two rears , I'll get to that after I park for a 1/2 hour or so.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2016 | 07:43 PM
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My drivers side front quit working. Pulled the switch apart and sanded/cleaned the contacts. It's been working for two years now. Hope this helps.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2016 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by m-chan68
The most LOGICAL cause, would be where the harness runs through the rubber flexible cover from the body to the door itself has one of the power window wires broken. All a power window is, is a simple circuit that supplies B+ on one side of the motor and B- on the other side to function, and switching the two polarities to function in the other direction. The switch itself is what directs B+ and B- to the appropriate sides of the circuit depending on the desired operation.

Resist the temptation to "shotgun" a power window motor and/or switch to repair the problem without first diagnosing B+ and B- are present where they need to be.
Thanks for chiming in Mike, and great advice Tideman , I did the door locks on my grandsons f-150 it had a small transfer plate that made contact after a while they get worn down making the locks slow moving or not at all, I made a thread on this in the 150 forum . In the morning I'll try switching the two switches around , I really need my amp meter to see if I'm getting power from the front to the back.
 
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