Repacking Pulley Bearings
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From: La La Land
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Carlos, since I know you use Schaeffer's products, I suspect their #278 (click on it) would be a good choice.
However, since they (Schaeffer's) make Applications Engineering available to their distributorship, you might
follow your chain of supply to ask them directly.
Pop
However, since they (Schaeffer's) make Applications Engineering available to their distributorship, you might
follow your chain of supply to ask them directly.
Pop
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Marv has pointed out in the past that we do not want Molybdenum in our wheel bearings either. That doesn't mean that Moly is bad. It's just not appropriate for some applications.
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From: La La Land
However, Ford (for whatever reason) advocates moly be used in the grease used to re-pack two-wheel-drive (more conventional) wheel bearings. Here is a thread from BITOG on the subject:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...Number=1272691
Between us FTE wrench-twisters, the last time I re-packed a friend's 2WD front end, I used non-moly grease.
Shhhh, don't tell Uncle Henry's people.
Pop
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That's qualified by adding that "no molybdenum" is for our four-wheel wheel bearings (supposedly sealed hubs).
However, Ford (for whatever reason) advocates moly be used in the grease used to re-pack two-wheel-drive (more conventional) wheel bearings. Here is a thread from BITOG on the subject:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...Number=1272691
Between us FTE wrench-twisters, the last time I re-packed a friend's 2WD front end, I used non-moly grease.
Shhhh, don't tell Uncle Henry's people.
Pop
However, Ford (for whatever reason) advocates moly be used in the grease used to re-pack two-wheel-drive (more conventional) wheel bearings. Here is a thread from BITOG on the subject:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...Number=1272691
Between us FTE wrench-twisters, the last time I re-packed a friend's 2WD front end, I used non-moly grease.
Shhhh, don't tell Uncle Henry's people.
Pop
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 10,247
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From: Chino Valley, Arizona
[QUOTE=Y2KW57;16817812]Helifixer, can you explain more about why?
_________
the fail rate was too high, so now i just replace them, also I can't justify spending time to clean and pack when they are 10 to 15 dollars.
_________
the fail rate was too high, so now i just replace them, also I can't justify spending time to clean and pack when they are 10 to 15 dollars.
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If the fail rate increased after regreasing... then this is significant information, even if anecdotal. Discovering the reasons why would be a worthy pursuit in the debate over best practices. Is the increase in fail rate after regreasing due to:
- New grease incompatibility with residual grease trapped in bearing?
- New grease inappropriateness for bearing service application?
- Mechanical wear on ***** and races from previous lubrication losses?
- Heat & friction induced distortion in the stamped pulley wheel?
- Axial precession resulting from deformation of compliant bushing?
Unfortunately, the bearing units from Motorcraft retail for $53.38 at the Ford dealer, so not exactly cheap for folks seeking assurance that they aren't getting stuck with harbor freight level knock off imports. For the price, Motorcraft includes a new flanged shoulder bolt, a new plastic/nylon/black delrin/whatever castle bushing, and of course the bearing is already pre pressed into a new smooth pulley.
Marv, are you pressing in new sealed bearings into your original smooth pulley? Do you have a write up or photos describing your process? I don't recall seeing it on your wonderful website, but maybe I was too distracted by all your other cool reliability mods!
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From: La La Land
Surprisingly, at a quarter-million miles, I'm still on the original bearings.
I do, however, carry around a couple PolyRex-EM-filled 6203s in case I am eighty miles north of Winnemucca, Nevada and one fails. It should allow me to at least "limp-in" to somewhere that has a proper replacement.
I also carry (among a whole-lot of other things) LocTite bearing retainer, a punch, and a hammer (which is probably how it will have to be done).
So far, I haven't needed to replace one, but I'm thinking about inspecting them carefully this winter season, when the truck doesn't get driven as much.
Pop
I do, however, carry around a couple PolyRex-EM-filled 6203s in case I am eighty miles north of Winnemucca, Nevada and one fails. It should allow me to at least "limp-in" to somewhere that has a proper replacement.
I also carry (among a whole-lot of other things) LocTite bearing retainer, a punch, and a hammer (which is probably how it will have to be done).
So far, I haven't needed to replace one, but I'm thinking about inspecting them carefully this winter season, when the truck doesn't get driven as much.
Pop
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From: Chino Valley, Arizona
If the fail rate increased after regreasing... then this is significant information, even if anecdotal. Discovering the reasons why would be a worthy pursuit in the debate over best practices. Is the increase in fail rate after regreasing due to:
Unfortunately, the bearing units from Motorcraft retail for $53.38 at the Ford dealer, so not exactly cheap for folks seeking assurance that they aren't getting stuck with harbor freight level knock off imports. For the price, Motorcraft includes a new flanged shoulder bolt, a new plastic/nylon/black delrin/whatever castle bushing, and of course the bearing is already pre pressed into a new smooth pulley.
Marv, are you pressing in new sealed bearings into your original smooth pulley? Do you have a write up or photos describing your process? I don't recall seeing it on your wonderful website, but maybe I was too distracted by all your other cool reliability mods!
- New grease incompatibility with residual grease trapped in bearing?
- New grease inappropriateness for bearing service application?
- Mechanical wear on ***** and races from previous lubrication losses?
- Heat & friction induced distortion in the stamped pulley wheel?
- Axial precession resulting from deformation of compliant bushing?
Unfortunately, the bearing units from Motorcraft retail for $53.38 at the Ford dealer, so not exactly cheap for folks seeking assurance that they aren't getting stuck with harbor freight level knock off imports. For the price, Motorcraft includes a new flanged shoulder bolt, a new plastic/nylon/black delrin/whatever castle bushing, and of course the bearing is already pre pressed into a new smooth pulley.
Marv, are you pressing in new sealed bearings into your original smooth pulley? Do you have a write up or photos describing your process? I don't recall seeing it on your wonderful website, but maybe I was too distracted by all your other cool reliability mods!
most likely due to the wear on the bearings, I would imagine if they were serviced annually they would run forever.
If I remember correctly with my discount I am paying $20.00 for gates and $30 for motorcraft.
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