Centurion E350
First, while doing some minor rust-picking, I found where they joined the van halves! They make it look easy - make I can make my own vantrucks now.
This has been shown post wire brushing and treatment with rust converter compound. The seam sealing goop is universally deteriorated, so on the docket once it warms up is a full teardown and cleanup of this whole circumference which seems to be hiding other rust spots.
I spent a day chasing down the last of the chopped up wiring. The CB radio is now powered, and I found out where those four buttons on the overhead console do (excuse my, uhhh, flippant naming. It's my usual style
)
There's really only 3 more wires that I don't know the function of, and I've basically stopped caring.
I suspect the "idk relay" leads to what were foglights - there's a relay under the hood next to the horn relay which leads to a fuse panel on the left side, which then leads to nothing. It makes logical sense with everything else being lights, and I did uninstall a set of very broken foglights at the beginning.
The "MOOD LIGHTING" was seemingly cut beneath the dashboard at some point - it has been reunited as part of the body lighting circuit. I will likely replace the christmas lights with LED strip in the future.
I've been doing some more research with regard to the Tesla powertrain transplant. It's weird to think the "truck parts" portion scares me more than handling 400V batteries and several-hundred HP electric motors, but that is just different experiences and industries for you. I'll need a 4x4 front axle conversion eventually either way, but it will need to be a custom assembly using the ends of a Dana 60 axle or Twin Traction Beam, cut up for the suspension interface but otherwise using CV half-shafts. This is something I have to consult with someone more knowledgeable about hodgepodging Ford truck parts together.
A pair of high back pedestal mount RV Captains seats for the pilot and copilot is the way to go! The passenger side should swivel 180* but the Steering wheel will prevent the driver side from coming all the way around.
Over in the bull nose pick up truck section you'll likely find some dual to single fuel tank conversion experience. I've got a single 38g in the rear.
The extra relays could be remnants of the dual tank switch gear. If you have in tank electric fuel pumps this is most likey what came stock. Elegant.
2 door rather than the 4 or 3.5 like ur own (may B cuz it's a Cent. II, not a III?). Never saw that B4, also had the '88 or 9 vinyl top (like the sedans/coups). Vry good interior - only 56,000 mi). Still in possession of the tail gait (altho a lill crooked).
Also
the pick up. (Rarer?)
I'd seen many of the broncos (4 door).
I wonder if the p/u was by Centurion? May B it was by that other co (name starts w/an "M"? Meteor or sompin).
I assume there is some kind of tube or hose that must have fallen off or cracked. Weather prevents me from digging in deep right away, so I'm curious if anyone has any spots to home in on.
Also wonder if the hot air intake valve is working and that makes the intake noise louder. There is a valve that diverts the intake to draw across the passenger side exhaust manifold to pre-heat the intake air to help it warm up faster.
Speaking of oil, I did a changeout tonight to Shell Rotella T6 5w-40. I run this in my other dopey 80s van and it made everything much happier in the winter, as well as improved gas mileage some. Let's see if I can get that last 0.1 MPG out of this truck.
I took the singular 50-degree day in the past few weeks to completely replumb the dual tank system, rebuild the switcher valve and wiring, and replace the midship tank fuel pump assembly.
Dual global warming cannons activate!
After seeing inside the mid-tank, I'm going to take this thing to my van mechanic and have both tanks either replaced or thoroughly cleaned. The mid-tank's fuel pump assembly more or less crumbled in my hand when I removed it, so I can't imagine the rear tank being in any better shape.
The new fuel pump is actually for the rear tank, which I thought I was going to do first - but after the mid-tank pump assembly died in my hands, I decided to just modify the new one to fit (they're different heights) by bending the tubing slightly more to make the rear tank pump sit just a bit higher, so the locking ring could close...
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
A few days ago, I was carrying equipment back to the shop when it got rear-ended IN THE EXACT CORNER THAT WAS REPAIRED!
(You should see the other guy though...)

So things have gotten a bit more real; my mechanic says this time it's gonna be unrecoverable and I'd have to find a new bed. While it's waiting for an insurance company visit there, I'd like to start researching solutions.
People in the northeast, specifically the New England region - know any good junkyards/auto recyclers with good stock of trucks? I'd be looking for these things (longshot) as well as 80s F-350s with long beds. Outside NE is fine too if you have favorite places to call.
The payout also was enough to go towards most of a new paint job and repair of the drip rail rust. I intend to paint the whole thing white to match my other van.
(Yes yes I know, 90s bed, 80s truck.... sssshhh
)
The payout also was enough to go towards most of a new paint job and repair of the drip rail rust. I intend to paint the whole thing white to match my other van.
(Yes yes I know, 90s bed, 80s truck.... sssshhh
)
bump, bump
any luck?
We didn't even get to the bed replacement yet... as you can see, I rigged it to the damaged bed to bring her home

Currently trying to decide my priorities. I'd like a running truck before an eternal project or a truck of a different color.
Strongly considering a conversion to EFI, because I can't stand carburetors. Anybody done an OEM EFI conversion using a later year engine? What about an aftermarket all-in-one like a FiTech or Holley Sniper? The latter advertises super-simple installation.








