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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 01:19 AM
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Third Starter Bolt

I've got 3 on my 2000 F350 7.3. While ago while looking around underneath, noticed starter bolt loose. Got a wrench and could get to 2 of the 3 and tightened them. Top bolt seems impossible to get a wrench on.
Any clues from you master motor heads out there?
 
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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by bigreentruck
I've got 3 on my 2000 F350 7.3. While ago while looking around underneath, noticed starter bolt loose. Got a wrench and could get to 2 of the 3 and tightened them. Top bolt seems impossible to get a wrench on.
Any clues from you master motor heads out there?
Use a little red locktite on a couple of threads of each bolt. That is the only thing we found that kept them in, and we could still get them out in the event of an issue with the starter. While your there spray that block plug really good with PB blaster. If you ever flush your coolant system you will be happy you did. It is right above the starter.

Good luck!
 
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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 08:35 AM
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Ice got a 3 bolter too. Can't remember how I went about it, but think my hand/arm became it's own contortiknist. It's possible, just don't get discouraged
 
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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by bigreentruck
I've got 3 on my 2000 F350 7.3. While ago while looking around underneath, noticed starter bolt loose. Got a wrench and could get to 2 of the 3 and tightened them. Top bolt seems impossible to get a wrench on.
Any clues from you master motor heads out there?
I hope that you're disconnecting your batteries while you fish around up there for that top bolt, there are a lot of amps in that feed wire that you don't want to hit with your wrench. I replaced my starter during a bigger job and had the fender liner out but I did take notice that it could be a bugger with the liner in place. If nobody has any good tips that's the best I can do. There's not much to removing it if the 3 or 4 little bolts come out but if they don't you'll have to grind the heads off and replace them.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 10:38 AM
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Personally, I would stay away from RED Loctite. Often, Heat is required to remove. Thread Sealer is preferred or, if nothing else, BLUE Loctite. If using Loctite, only the first five threads require it. otherwise you may need a Thread Chaser if your remove and install at a later date.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 05:34 PM
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Thanks for input.
Question still, is, how to get a socket or wrench on the top bolt head?
 
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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by bigreentruck
Thanks for input.
Question still, is, how to get a socket or wrench on the top bolt head?

A swivel socket and/or swivel end extension is required. It's tight. But, very doable. You have to go in close to the block next to the drain plug. Dismantling the Solenoid (Batteries Disconnected) helps. I've only had to do this once or twice. Amazing how these vary from one to another.


The Torque is: 16-20 ft.lb. DON'T over tighten.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 07:55 PM
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I use a long extension on my craftsman 3/8 ratchet.
Is the top bolt loose or missing?
 
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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 08:22 PM
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It's there, just want to ck it as I found a loose one 6 months ago and tightened it.
So go in the "no space" area next to block.
Do I go in from the side through the wheel well skirt or staight up?
 
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Old Dec 5, 2016 | 05:02 AM
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I go straight up to the end of the starter, then feed the socket and extension over the starter, onto the bolt head. Slow and steady. May take more than one try.
 
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