I recently flushed my hydro boost and was amazed at what a difference it made. The difference between new brake fluid and 14 year old fluid was night and day. The pedal feel really firmed up. Then after that, cleaning up the slide pins and greasing them made it even better.

 

I have consistently and successfully used Napa Ultra Premium rotors on both of my 2WD SuperDuty vehicles with no trouble (front and rear). I don't tow or haul, and stop carefully without putting myself into situations requiring aggressive stopping regimens (normally). No issues with either excessive wear, cementite, or "warpage".

I ran one set of cryo'd power slots up front on my truck only to find that one must have had a bad set of cryo or initial casting conditions because it wore badly with ridges (not grooves) on both surfaces, had granulated corrosion lines showing up on both inner and outer surfaces. The other one on the passenger side did fine. This was with Hawk pads.

Given the above two situations, for me, the cryo'd rotors are not worth the money and I'll stick with the Napa UP's. If I towed or hauled heavy, I might do otherwise, but I don't, and won't.

To address the OP's question about improving the SuperDuty braking system, I agree that the following items are helpful:
1. SS Braided lines.
2. Properly bedding the new brake pads, regardless of brand, but following each specific brands recommendation for the bedding in process which DOES differ from brand to brand.
3. Flush the entire brake system every two years with fresh fluid.
4. EBC or Hawk pads are reported good investments for those who tow/haul.
5. Inspect and lube your slide pins every 2-3 years on every caliper.
6. Once yearly, swap positions with your inner and outer pads on each caliper... the inners tend to wear faster, and this will reduce the likelihood of running your inner pads too low and eating your rotors.

 

Thanks all, for the advice. I think I have some just maintenance items to do first, flush brake and hydro, before replacing rotors and new pads. I have never tested the runout before, so I will do that as well.
I will check into the cryo'd rotors.
I do not tow/ haul much and drive like grandpa

 

What benefit do SS braided lines have that the OEM factory flexible brakes lines don't have?

 

Better brake response as there is no give in the line to build pressure. While we are talking a very short time between the two, you will feel the difference with the braided lines IMHO

 

X-3. And also consider stainless lines too.


This might work on some Merc's, but when my mechanic moved mine over to slotted (just in the front), I lost braking power (more foot pressure to get the same stopping power.). Next set is going back to solid. Point is that that they do not work best in all Merc's.

 

The kit I got was just the rotors and pads. I agree on the calipers, I would have stuck with fomotco. I was just looking for a good set of rotors to replace my warped ones, for the price and that the truck stops well and the rotor ribs and meat on the rotor was good, I'm pleased so far. The next upgrade will be the braided lines. Also to note, I'm running 35 inch tires, I got on the brakes the other day and it really grabbed and saved my bacon. I would recommend the rotors and pads again.

 

Have you guys noticed over the last few years, that most parts that say Napa also say China.
I believe the Napa quality has gone down.

 

Yup! No doubt. No more NAPA rotors or pads.

I really like the Bosch replacement rotors. However, for the first time, EBC Yellows are squealing!

 

Modulation of braking is more controlled with less mush supplied by the rubber lines. Driving to work at O dark thirty I drive off the curb in front of the house every day. It's more comfortable to step each wheel off gracefully. Same benefit off road and sporting around.

Not sure of others, but Crown hoses are teflon lined and the claim is they will not degrade and weaken over time as rubber lines will. So potentially the last hoses you'll ever need.

 

Glad I saw this thread -- I have the surging issue BAD in my rear disk brakes, and a couple days ago, the pedal went almost to the floor ... got a hole in one of my brake hyd lines.

My truck is a RUST MONSTER underneath from the snow/salt belt and I guess I should probably replace all the brake lines, along with the rear rotors (planning to use the Frozen Rotors and pads that so many here recommend) but I have a question:

How much of a nightmare is it to replace the fixed hydraulic lines in a 2001 F-250? A friend of mine said on some vehicles there's no way to fish the line through all the places it needs to go without practically pulling the cab off the truck, so you have to make lots of splices and bends, etc.

How much of a nightmare do I have to look forward to?

Thanks for any advice...