Brake Upgrade
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 298
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From: Central Texas
Brake Upgrade
I am needing to redo the brakes on my truck. Just passed the 300,000 mile mark. I have replaced the rotors before and they warped again.
What would y'all recommed for upgrading the brake system? just front rotors or both front and rear? to what would you recommend? slotted, dimpled and slottted or something else? break pad material?
Thanks.
What would y'all recommed for upgrading the brake system? just front rotors or both front and rear? to what would you recommend? slotted, dimpled and slottted or something else? break pad material?
Thanks.
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
Your rotors aren't actually warped, you can read up on that here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16086658
A few months ago, after over ten years of using cryo'd rotors, I decided to try a quality non-cryo'd rotor because I've read the past few years where guys have had good success with non-cryo'd rotors and EBC pads. Bad mistake.
I just ordered a set of cryo'd front rotors to replace the new rotors I just put on because cementite was still a problem.
Stewart
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,404
Likes: 3
From: Asheville-where weird is
Is your truck an e99 or a L99?
I have not had good luck with cryo'd rotors. Maybe it is because I did not use the Hawk LTS Pads. I dunno....
Also, Napa Ultra Premium Rotors are soft, rust quickly, heat quickly and are not a good match for EBC Yellow Pads. The pads will last about 30k of hard towing and they simply remove a ton of metal from the NAPA rotors and so cementite may not be an issue.
What is working for me is the Bosch 20010312 QuietCast Premium Disc Brake Rotor, Irish Store has the best price and lifetime warranty, along with EBC Yellow Pads. This combination seems to be a good combo and they do STOP.
I would do all four rotors if money was not an issue.
One of the best upgrades that you can make regardless of your rotor and pad choice is to purchase braided stainless steel brake lines for front and back. The kit should contain (5) hoses. You'll be impressed.
Also, consider flushing your hydro boost system.
I have not had good luck with cryo'd rotors. Maybe it is because I did not use the Hawk LTS Pads. I dunno....
Also, Napa Ultra Premium Rotors are soft, rust quickly, heat quickly and are not a good match for EBC Yellow Pads. The pads will last about 30k of hard towing and they simply remove a ton of metal from the NAPA rotors and so cementite may not be an issue.
What is working for me is the Bosch 20010312 QuietCast Premium Disc Brake Rotor, Irish Store has the best price and lifetime warranty, along with EBC Yellow Pads. This combination seems to be a good combo and they do STOP.
I would do all four rotors if money was not an issue.
One of the best upgrades that you can make regardless of your rotor and pad choice is to purchase braided stainless steel brake lines for front and back. The kit should contain (5) hoses. You'll be impressed.
Also, consider flushing your hydro boost system.
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,795
Likes: 1,326
From: Elk Grove, CA
I'll second Stewart on the cryo rotors. They resist "warping" better but they are not magic. I occasionally need to re-bed the pads to reduce the vibrations. About due again come to think of it.
Only way to keep them smooth as Grandpa's Lincoln is to drive like Grandpa.
I like plain rotors. Slotted can make NVH and drilled is less material in a place where you want more. Just my opinion, many will disagree.
Only way to keep them smooth as Grandpa's Lincoln is to drive like Grandpa.
I like plain rotors. Slotted can make NVH and drilled is less material in a place where you want more. Just my opinion, many will disagree.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 11,266
Likes: 1,649
From: Las Cruces New Mexico
I've notice in the fleet that the guys that don't tow anything get warped rotors more frequently than guys that do why? My theory is that the guys that dont tow give the more aggressive braking when it come to stopping , while the guys that tow ease on braking when coming to a stop instead of just slamming the brakes. I always tend to do the same as the guys that tow, ease on braking, keep my distance. I've had good luck with my personal trucks and my company truck with no warping rotors (and yah I tow stuff around too) All we use are Autozone brakes and rotors. Hope this helps you.
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Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
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From: Central Coast of CA
The cryo'd replacements are here, I'm just waiting for the new caliper slide pins to arrive.
Stewart
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,404
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From: Asheville-where weird is
I really need to replace the UP rotors on the rear but it is not my favorite job....
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,508
Likes: 87
From: North Carolina, Raleigh
not sure what NVH means 
race cars tend to use slotted rotors on tracks with lots of braking. Not drilled and slotted but slotted only. helps to dissipate heat and keep the gasses from heavy braking created by the pad a place to go.
I have seen drilled and slotted on sports model Mercedes cars.. might be ok for non race car applications like us.
race cars tend to use slotted rotors on tracks with lots of braking. Not drilled and slotted but slotted only. helps to dissipate heat and keep the gasses from heavy braking created by the pad a place to go. I have seen drilled and slotted on sports model Mercedes cars.. might be ok for non race car applications like us.
I'll second Stewart on the cryo rotors. They resist "warping" better but they are not magic. I occasionally need to re-bed the pads to reduce the vibrations. About due again come to think of it.
Only way to keep them smooth as Grandpa's Lincoln is to drive like Grandpa.
I like plain rotors. Slotted can make NVH and drilled is less material in a place where you want more. Just my opinion, many will disagree.
Only way to keep them smooth as Grandpa's Lincoln is to drive like Grandpa.
I like plain rotors. Slotted can make NVH and drilled is less material in a place where you want more. Just my opinion, many will disagree.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 157
Likes: 1
I have the power stop kit. Have had no problems and the truck really stops now with their z36 pads. Also the zinc coating has held up, the rotors look new still and it has been a year. Also the price is reasonable for rotors and pads.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 704
Likes: 2
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
And how does flushing your hydroboost system help? Not challenging, just curious.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,404
Likes: 3
From: Asheville-where weird is
https://www.amazon.com/Russell-69649.../dp/B0014B5S7E
www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-696490/overview/
IIRC there is another kit by Russel if you have more lift than this kit will address. Also, some of the other guys on here have found another kit online that only has two or three lines; however, the company will add the additional lines if you request them. Just remember that you need 5 lines.
I do not know the how nor the why as to the improvement seen when you flush the hydroboost system other than it must feel warm and fuzzy to get some fresh fluid after 15 yrs.
: If it has never been done to your truck, you will notice a positive difference in the firmness of the pedal.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 717
Likes: 9
These trucks, though the same, all have their quirks. Nothing more than Brakes IMO.
Not knocking the Power-Stops But, I had a customer the beginning of the summer following my retirement looking to save some money and bought the same system you describe for me to install. I "think" the receipt was something like $500
After a month of troubleshooting, I actually threw the Pads, Calipers, and Hardware in the Dumpster.
We reinstalled his Calipers, used the Power-Stop Rotors, and FoMoCo Pads and it was braking like a dream. What a nightmare.
Again, I have also heard good things about them as well. Perhaps just a bad set of calipers and pads.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 717
Likes: 9
The Hydro-boost System essentially replaced the Vacuum Pumps on the earlier Models of the Ford Heavy Duty Applications. That system provide vacuum to the Brakes as well as HVAC/ESOF.
On the later applications, the Hydro-Boost both powers the Steering and Supplement the Braking System. The Fender mounted Vacuum Pump and Reservoir now operates the HVAC and ESOF.
As for flushing the Power-Boost System, As with any hydraulic based fluid of its type, it wears and looses its maintenance packages through both use and age. Here is a video of a FTE Member performing the flush.