My mistake, sorry about that. So the dual alts and tne snow plow prep came with 140amp alt.

That 135amp would be about a direct replacement and the 185amp would be an upgrade.


Another thing to consider is how much draw you put on your electrical system, stereo AC ect.

.

 

Well a local shop built me a 200 amp. Got it installed and seems to be working fine. I'll look at battery cables too.

 

WoW, Interesting thread. So somewhere in the 4.5 hours between your posts, on Saturday of Thanksgiving weekend, you got a local shop to not only rebuild your 140 into a 200, but got it installed and it is working just fine....?

Well good for you -- wish we had shops like that around here...

 

No they actually had the new parts to put together a 200amp alternator. I pulled mine and exchanged the core and bought the new one that they built in a couple of hours.

 

Resurrecting an old thread.

I just wanted to say thanks. I put a new alternator on and still had the battery light on the dash. Tested voltage: 14.5. Tested amperage: around 65 with everything on.

Then I checked all the fuses. I did have the cigarette lighter fuse, 20 amp, which was blown, so I replaced that.

Then I tested the diode. Sure enough, zero. It was zero with the leads connected both ways, one to the positive on the alternator stud and the other grounded to the alternator body, with batteries disconnected.

So I'm in the process of hopefully getting a new alternator under warranty. I've also ordered a bigger alternator charging wire from Custombatterycables.com

I've upgraded to the 6.0 alternator for close to the same price and just had to grind down the bracket a bit. The wire connector fit without any mods.

 

Put the new alternator in. It’s charging and showing 67 amps with everything on. Battery light is still on… all my fuses are good. Battery cables are upgraded and new, grounds were cleaned, etc. Batteries are 1.5 years old or so. Could it be one of them? My tester/charger from harbor freight says they’re good. They seem to hold a charge. I’ve had this truck over 20 years and never encountered this.

 

What alternator configuration do you have

there is a Ford specified alternator pinpoints test I’ve posted it before but don’t have access to it at this time sorry maybe search my post s idk

Another user maybe able to post post pin point test pdf and harness pin out pdf’s

 

charging is pcm control this setup but that circuit may include dash cluster I can’t remember exactly

pinpoint test will help break It down

are you testing wiring for continuity

do you have DVM tester

 

@BLADE35
i put an alternator for the ford 6.0 on recently. Same plug and mounting. I just had to grind the bracket a smidge.

I have put two on recently. The battery light was on previously and is why I decided to upgrade/change it out.

She is charging the batteries, 14+ volts and amps in the 60’s with accessories on.

With all that working I’m leaning towards a bad battery even though they seem to hold a charge. I ordered a battery tester so I see what the battery is actually doing.

i will have to google the plug wires I suppose but like I mentioned, the alternator seems to be working. I also recently had the PCM tested at Diesel of Chattanooga while chasing a separate issue (P1316 code).