Battery Light
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,760
Likes: 21
That 135amp would be about a direct replacement and the 185amp would be an upgrade.
Another thing to consider is how much draw you put on your electrical system, stereo AC ect.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,951
Likes: 512
From: Foothills, CA
Well good for you
-- wish we had shops like that around here...
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 644
Likes: 10
WoW, Interesting thread. So somewhere in the 4.5 hours between your posts, on Saturday of Thanksgiving weekend, you got a local shop to not only rebuild your 140 into a 200, but got it installed and it is working just fine....?
Well good for you -- wish we had shops like that around here...
Well good for you
-- wish we had shops like that around here...
Diverdude
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 352
Likes: 43
From: Tennessee
Resurrecting an old thread.
I just wanted to say thanks. I put a new alternator on and still had the battery light on the dash. Tested voltage: 14.5. Tested amperage: around 65 with everything on.
Then I checked all the fuses. I did have the cigarette lighter fuse, 20 amp, which was blown, so I replaced that.
Then I tested the diode. Sure enough, zero. It was zero with the leads connected both ways, one to the positive on the alternator stud and the other grounded to the alternator body, with batteries disconnected.
So I'm in the process of hopefully getting a new alternator under warranty. I've also ordered a bigger alternator charging wire from Custombatterycables.com
I've upgraded to the 6.0 alternator for close to the same price and just had to grind down the bracket a bit. The wire connector fit without any mods.
I just wanted to say thanks. I put a new alternator on and still had the battery light on the dash. Tested voltage: 14.5. Tested amperage: around 65 with everything on.
Then I checked all the fuses. I did have the cigarette lighter fuse, 20 amp, which was blown, so I replaced that.
Then I tested the diode. Sure enough, zero. It was zero with the leads connected both ways, one to the positive on the alternator stud and the other grounded to the alternator body, with batteries disconnected.
So I'm in the process of hopefully getting a new alternator under warranty. I've also ordered a bigger alternator charging wire from Custombatterycables.com
I've upgraded to the 6.0 alternator for close to the same price and just had to grind down the bracket a bit. The wire connector fit without any mods.
Diverdude
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 352
Likes: 43
From: Tennessee
No Joy
Put the new alternator in. It’s charging and showing 67 amps with everything on. Battery light is still on… all my fuses are good. Battery cables are upgraded and new, grounds were cleaned, etc. Batteries are 1.5 years old or so. Could it be one of them? My tester/charger from harbor freight says they’re good. They seem to hold a charge. I’ve had this truck over 20 years and never encountered this.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,072
Likes: 242
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
What alternator configuration do you have
there is a Ford specified alternator pinpoints test I’ve posted it before but don’t have access to it at this time sorry maybe search my post s idk
Another user maybe able to post post pin point test pdf and harness pin out pdf’s
there is a Ford specified alternator pinpoints test I’ve posted it before but don’t have access to it at this time sorry maybe search my post s idk
Another user maybe able to post post pin point test pdf and harness pin out pdf’s
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,072
Likes: 242
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
charging is pcm control this setup but that circuit may include dash cluster I can’t remember exactly
pinpoint test will help break It down
are you testing wiring for continuity
do you have DVM tester
pinpoint test will help break It down
are you testing wiring for continuity
do you have DVM tester
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Diverdude
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 352
Likes: 43
From: Tennessee
@BLADE35
i put an alternator for the ford 6.0 on recently. Same plug and mounting. I just had to grind the bracket a smidge.
I have put two on recently. The battery light was on previously and is why I decided to upgrade/change it out.
She is charging the batteries, 14+ volts and amps in the 60’s with accessories on.
With all that working I’m leaning towards a bad battery even though they seem to hold a charge. I ordered a battery tester so I see what the battery is actually doing.
i will have to google the plug wires I suppose but like I mentioned, the alternator seems to be working. I also recently had the PCM tested at Diesel of Chattanooga while chasing a separate issue (P1316 code).
i put an alternator for the ford 6.0 on recently. Same plug and mounting. I just had to grind the bracket a smidge.
I have put two on recently. The battery light was on previously and is why I decided to upgrade/change it out.
She is charging the batteries, 14+ volts and amps in the 60’s with accessories on.
With all that working I’m leaning towards a bad battery even though they seem to hold a charge. I ordered a battery tester so I see what the battery is actually doing.
i will have to google the plug wires I suppose but like I mentioned, the alternator seems to be working. I also recently had the PCM tested at Diesel of Chattanooga while chasing a separate issue (P1316 code).
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duden123
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Sep 10, 2006 12:32 PM