When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The radiator and driver's side block holds a little more than 3 gallons. Combine that with passenger side block and core your just over 6.
You could remove both core hoses, catch that and just flush with restore or restore plus. Stay away from the VC9, it's an iron removal chemical you don't need for a core flush. But that won't resolve a plugged air flow problem, you'll need to clean the fins for that.
I'd feel hoses for temp on both supply and return.
If they were even in temp, I'd try the fin cleaning. If they aren't even, try the restore/restore + product.
That should save most of your coolant and a good point to isolate the real issue.
You are getting good air from the vents, just not hot air... correct? If the cores hot and air flow is cold, it's the blend door.
So what does the valve do? I think my truck is XL. It's a basic work truck. I'll check hose temps tomorrow and report back. I also have my coolant filter tapped into one of those lines, so some hot water is probably being tapped off there but I closed my filter valves to see if that changed the temp and it didn't appreciably change it.
Yes the air flow is good, just the temp that's low.
Mines a 2005 XLT and has it. All it does is shuts off coolant flow to the heater core to aid the A/C in keeping the hvac box even colder. You could add it but it isn't necessary.
Okay so did a little more checking and discovered that the heater core flows well in both directions, I used the garden hose on it and got plenty of flow. Based on my previous experiment of touching both input and output on the heater core and finding the output wasn't hot I thought I had a clogged core, but the hose flowed very well, so now I'm thinking it might be a coolant supply issue?
Is it possible for a heater core to still flow lot s of water but not be able to heat exchange properly?
Norma, looking at the picture that gray line under your MAP bracket is the vacuum for the heater valve. If you pull it off I believe you will see just a plastic stud there. So some where down the line your control valve got taken off.
Norma, looking at the picture that gray line under your MAP bracket is the vacuum for the heater valve. If you pull it off I believe you will see just a plastic stud there. So some where down the line your control valve got taken off.
So the vacuum line is there but not the valve. Didn't know that. Thanks 87
Could always be added but that's not the problem here.
There's only so many components here. You verified flow through the core. Now verify that coolant from the engine is flowing through by feeling the 2 hoses when running. Both hoses should be hot.
Verify the blend door is working and not stuck or the control valve isn't broke or stuck.
Any other thing would be the heater core fins inside the hvac box are clogged with leaf litter or a critter built a home in there.
I know you looked into some of these but maybe something was overlooked.
The radiator and driver's side block holds a little more than 3 gallons. Combine that with passenger side block and core your just over 6.
You could remove both core hoses, catch that and just flush with restore or restore plus. Stay away from the VC9, it's an iron removal chemical you don't need for a core flush. But that won't resolve a plugged air flow problem, you'll need to clean the fins for that.
I'd feel hoses for temp on both supply and return.
If they were even in temp, I'd try the fin cleaning. If they aren't even, try the restore/restore + product.
That should save most of your coolant and a good point to isolate the real issue.
You are getting good air from the vents, just not hot air... correct? If the cores hot and air flow is cold, it's the blend door.
I agree with the blend door.
You should be able to access this part and test it by leaving it plugged in and rotate the **** from hot to cold and look for movement.
You might also remove the lines and add a temp hose to a bucket. then
start the engine and see how strong the flow into the bucket is. Good place
to separate the line would be at the valve or the steel line from the front passenger
side of the engine.
I do agree that checking the core in the heater box should be done to see
if you have any debris blocking the air flow.
Once you know what it is and if it just crap blocking the fins you can remove
the engine side cover and clean it out. You might also get some evaporator
spray cleaner from a HVAC supply house. Mix the stuff per the directions and
apply. Some types don't need to be rinsed off and others do. You should do
both the heater and evaporator cores. Clean healthy air. No more old stinky AC
mold smells is always a plus.
Okay well I'm thinking I need to do the test to see good coolant supply. When running engine the hose going into the box is hot and the output is cold which led me to believe the core was clogged but my garden hose test proved that wasn't the case, so I now believe maybe it was cold on that side because the fan, which seems strong, was efficiently cooling what little heat was there. So, if the engine is not supplying nice flow that would cause these symptoms as well. But how would that happen? There's no kinks or anything that I can see. I'll check for debris but I feel that the fan is pushing a good amount of air, and I also feel the blend door is working well because I removed the servo and manually moved the shaft and could feel and hear it thwapping back and forth positively.
This is getting weird?!
Could the system be air locked? When I filled with coolant I did the usual fill it up top, run engine, refill it as needed a few times and we are good. Maybe I missed a critical procedure on this space ship.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.