Heater is barely heating
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 6,545
Likes: 13
From: Virginia Beach VA
Maybe.... turn the heater on hot and fan on high. Remove the degas cap and get the truck up to temp. Since there is not valve in place on the heater core line, water should flow freely and it should get pretty hot... run the truck until you see good flow in the degas tank... let it run a bit, that should clear the air, if any. Just make sure it hits full temp or the t-stat won't open. You could wait until its at full temp and then carefully vent the cap, then watch the flow as well.... don't burn yourself!
You could add a small section of clear tubing to see flow as well. A couple pieces of brass 5/8" pipe, 4 hose clamps and a 6" piece of tube.
You could add a small section of clear tubing to see flow as well. A couple pieces of brass 5/8" pipe, 4 hose clamps and a 6" piece of tube.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 509
Likes: 0
That's a good idea with the clear tube. As for running it a bit to get it up to full temp, that would never happen in my driveway, at least not in an 8 hour day. This thing requires actual driving to get it up to 200°. Very cold blooded!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,142
Likes: 25
With the miles on your truck you could have a heater core that has a film on the inside that flushing does not remove. I was a Certified Master Tech for over 45 years and every once in a while I would come across a core that no matter what you did it would not transfer enough heat to deliver a warm interior. The only solution was to put in a new core. I was able to get a couple to work by running them through a boil out tank, but at that point it makes more sense to just replace it, plus the chemicals in a boil out tank weakens the brass or aluminum in the core and who knows how long before it starts to leak. One test you can do is to bypass your core and put a foot long piece of copper tubing in the bypass and run it until up to temp and see how hot the tube gets, it may be too hot to hold onto, if so replace the core, if just warm you have other issues.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
The plastic sign board is also nice because when it gets wet you don't
get what looks like soggy oat meal.
get what looks like soggy oat meal.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 4,097
Likes: 23
From: Kissimmee,Fla
Pull the stat and make sure it's seating in the housing. Just went through that with a new stat that I had from Mishimoto. It was old stock from when they first came out. I had to make the hole in the housing a little deeper
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,828
Likes: 3,113
From: Jersey Shore
Hadn't gone through this thread until now. My '03 Lariat bought in South Jersey (Vineland) never had the valve. It's a curious mix of what vehicles it was installed in.
If the blend door is fully functioning, and no debris blocking blower flow, I'd be thinking of the T/S not fully seating, since with its closure there is a better tendency for volume through the heater core. My view is towards your comment of the truck being being cold blooded.
IMO, the heater performance is proportional to the radiator temp in my truck, so winter always gets the plastic sign in front of the radiator. Actually, I have three sheets, so depending on the avg temp, one, two, or three get installed depending on the temp of the time frame. If my truck wasn't hold down the driveway it would be running one sheet right now.
If the blend door is fully functioning, and no debris blocking blower flow, I'd be thinking of the T/S not fully seating, since with its closure there is a better tendency for volume through the heater core. My view is towards your comment of the truck being being cold blooded.
IMO, the heater performance is proportional to the radiator temp in my truck, so winter always gets the plastic sign in front of the radiator. Actually, I have three sheets, so depending on the avg temp, one, two, or three get installed depending on the temp of the time frame. If my truck wasn't hold down the driveway it would be running one sheet right now.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,060
Likes: 238
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
That vac line isn't plugged in right so it leaks
Vac press controls the blend door
fix the obvious first or is that where the vac line runs when there is No Valve??
seams to reason if it had a Vac Line then at some point it had a Valve
previous own must had same problem and deleated it thinking it impeded flow
your not saying its stuck on defrost so somethings a miss
Vac press controls the blend door
fix the obvious first or is that where the vac line runs when there is No Valve??
seams to reason if it had a Vac Line then at some point it had a Valve
previous own must had same problem and deleated it thinking it impeded flow
your not saying its stuck on defrost so somethings a miss
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,060
Likes: 238
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
THANKS for your reply Jack
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,828
Likes: 3,113
From: Jersey Shore
Yeah, it's weird what got the valve and what didn't, so just when you think you have it nailed, there's my truck. Not by trim level nor by region. I ended up putting a manual valve in incorporating the coolant filter.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,097
Likes: 9
From: Minnesota
Impeller slipping on water pump shaft and not circulating enough coolant?
And didn't the cab heaters act strange when oil cooler is restricted/ plugged on the coolant side?
If you bypass the heater core and put a clear piece plastic hose in between you could possibly see how much volume of coolant is flowing, just leave the degass bottle cap off as to not build any pressure in coolant system.
And didn't the cab heaters act strange when oil cooler is restricted/ plugged on the coolant side?
If you bypass the heater core and put a clear piece plastic hose in between you could possibly see how much volume of coolant is flowing, just leave the degass bottle cap off as to not build any pressure in coolant system.