electric choke
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2013
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electric choke
Hello,
1978 f250 400 c6
My electric choke has stopped working,,it has no voltage in the white/black wire.
It is a single wire to the choke, and it plugs into a 2 wire plug. I have 12 volts on the female side of the two wire terminal only, but it is not in line with the wire that foes to the choke.
I am looking at the diagram and it shows one wire from the alternator/bat. Before i hack this thing and solder them together i wanted to ask if i am correct.
I am speculating the male/female connector has failed inside and not allowing the 12 volts to carry through. to the second wire and feed to the choke. The other possibility is the wire to the alternator is broke somewhere. But if that were the case, why two hot wires feed into one wire to the choke.
Any help would be great.
1978 f250 400 c6
My electric choke has stopped working,,it has no voltage in the white/black wire.
It is a single wire to the choke, and it plugs into a 2 wire plug. I have 12 volts on the female side of the two wire terminal only, but it is not in line with the wire that foes to the choke.
I am looking at the diagram and it shows one wire from the alternator/bat. Before i hack this thing and solder them together i wanted to ask if i am correct.
I am speculating the male/female connector has failed inside and not allowing the 12 volts to carry through. to the second wire and feed to the choke. The other possibility is the wire to the alternator is broke somewhere. But if that were the case, why two hot wires feed into one wire to the choke.
Any help would be great.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
The wire for the choke is white/black trace. This wire will only have voltage when the engine is running.
The choke is energized by the stator terminal of the alternator. The voltage is AC not DC and it is around 7 volts.
Like I said, the engine needs to be actually running, not just the ignition in the "run" position.
Just so you know, the other wire (blue) goes to the anti-diesel solenoid on the carb.
The choke is energized by the stator terminal of the alternator. The voltage is AC not DC and it is around 7 volts.
Like I said, the engine needs to be actually running, not just the ignition in the "run" position.
Just so you know, the other wire (blue) goes to the anti-diesel solenoid on the carb.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
That's a primitive emission control device.
Back in the day, carburetors had trouble coping with the emission control systems on a lot of the vehicles. One of the problems was 'run on' also known as dieseling. You turn the key off and the engine keeps on sputtering and clunking along, often backwards.
To combat this, the carbs were equipped with anti-diesel solenoids. What this does is, when the key is on, the solenoid kicks the idle speed up to proper setting. When you shut the key off, the solenoid de-energizes and allows the throttle plates to close beyond idle to help stop the run on.
With modern fuel injection, dieseling is impossible. You turn the key off and that shuts down the computer and the fuel injection. No fuel=no run on.
Back in the day, carburetors had trouble coping with the emission control systems on a lot of the vehicles. One of the problems was 'run on' also known as dieseling. You turn the key off and the engine keeps on sputtering and clunking along, often backwards.
To combat this, the carbs were equipped with anti-diesel solenoids. What this does is, when the key is on, the solenoid kicks the idle speed up to proper setting. When you shut the key off, the solenoid de-energizes and allows the throttle plates to close beyond idle to help stop the run on.
With modern fuel injection, dieseling is impossible. You turn the key off and that shuts down the computer and the fuel injection. No fuel=no run on.
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