Again.. Ya think?

Your just a barrel of laughs and haven't contributed any help so stop posting in my threads.

 

No , I will do as I please
I'm always amazed at the lengths people go to save a pile of.......rust

 

And you've made that point quite plain. Now... stop.

 

I've used a lot of Por-15 so I'll mention what no one else has so far.

Gloves. I mean GLOVES.

Google search Hootus and understand that Por-15 is 10 times worse than that.

If you get it on something it is there till the skin under it dies and flakes off. Once dry there is no getting it off. At least not using anything likely to leave the surrounding flesh intact.

Hootus.

 

Allrighty then..

Iv used POR15 on my rebuilt engine and its still on there 4 years later but its faded now. I wish I could find a true accelerated time test on the different rust converting paints, but have read POR is a encapsulater and they are all snake oil. Rust bullet is another paint always mentioned.
I need something that seeps between the roof seams and have been told to use Ospho but it needs to be washed off which would make a big mess in my cold cluttered garage.

I completely cut the rotted vertical section of the gutter above my rear doors off and do not plan on rebuilding fords water trap that caused the rust in the first place. Present plan is to epoxy a steel U channel cap over the two edges.

 

A "snake oil" is something that doesn't work. There are times/situations that it's not practical to cut out and weld in new metal or sand/media blast it to clean metal. If prepped correctly you will not have rust issues in the areas painted with POR-15. You keep bringing up it not being UV resistant. But if you are using it on a exterior body panel who cares? I don't think you'd be leaving it, most people are going to top coat it to match the rest of the body. And you can top coat it with any paint you want. And even if it's not top coated, fading or discoloring doesn't effect it's ability to prevent further rusting.

And there isn't a whole lot out there that seeps into things better then POR-15. There are some people that have learned that the hard way. They have applied it to the inside of a truck cab that has been repainted on the outside. And it has seeped thru the body seems and got onto the fresh new paint on the outside of the cab.

The POR-15 prep requires rinsing the areas off too. The Metal prep is an etcher/rust convertor( like Ospho ). So when you use POR-15 you are converting the rust and sealing it.

Not having the gutters above the doors might cause you to have some water leaks. You better make sure the weatherstripping on the rear doors is in perfect condition or you may end up with a wet floor in back every time it rains.

 

Which rust converter seeps between panels the best is what I'm after. I have some por15 left over and wont need the metal prep because there's surface rust for it to adhere to if I use it.

The roof in the rear still extends over the doors, but wont hold water when I'm done.

I wont be using bondo glass as Iv learned west systems epoxy and fiberglass cloth on bare or rusted steel bonds better and shrinks less. I'll apply packaging tape over a good section of my gutter and make a mold with epoxy and fiberglass cloth. Then move it to the smaller rotted out sections along the sides with poly sheet between for release. Then layup the epoxy and glass repair when the temperature gets over 60.

Id rather buy a clean econoline down south with a blown motor and swap bodies, but I don't have a garage tall enough for a lift. The day I do , maybe after I retire, I will do the 4x4 conversion I originally planned. I just need to limp the body along until then.

 

They recommend the metal prep before the POR-15, whether it's going over rusty or clean metal. Not following POR-15's prep directions is usually what leads people having poor results and bad mouthing the products.

I don't have a shop or a lift. I'm doing my projects right in my driveway. So I know all about being at the mercy of the weather, the city I live in, etc.

Good luck with your rain gutters. Hopefully whatever you use on them works out for you until you can find a better van/body.

 

I finally found enough time to finish this project. Marine epoxy is time consuming waiting for it to cure, washing it, pin holes etc etc.. I must have mixed up over 20 batch's.

I decided to apply unthickened epoxy directly to the clean roughed up steel instead of any priming or paint and continue on from there. This will be a good test of just how good marine epoxy performs for autobody. I primed after the body work with pustoleum filler primer, and four coats of rustoleum topside marine paint thinned with hardener added.

Over all, it looks better than the rest of the van.. If it lasts five years before it starts to pop again, Ill be happy. But I bet it lasts longer if I roll on another coat of rustoleum every couple years.

 

Looks like you've done a nice job. Was wondering how the West Systems epoxy is holding up?

 

Thanks. I sold the van shortly after the epoxy work and its back in florida now. He lost 5th gear, but the bodywork still looks good.

I miss that thing!

 

 

Most dont. My old 95 had a 6bt/nv4500

 

I'm kinda late to this here "party" but I have the same problem in my 96 conversion van. I'm not about to scrap a 99% perfectly fine vehicle because of 2 ft of cancer in the rain gutter in the rear. I'm thinking though of cleaning the rust up, then using good ole fashion body LEAD to fix the area.

 

There ya go..
There's always one pooper