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I'm a big fan of the POR-15 products. Check out a product of theirs called POR patch. It's basically a thicker version of POR-15 and works great in rain gutters. It works a whole lot better then regular seam sealer. It cures hard but still stays flexible. POR-15 is some tough stuff.
Use POR Patch and POR-15 on them and you shouldn't have any more issues for a long time. I'm going to be doing this on the rain gutters on my 89 E350.
And if you have any bigger holes they have some two part epoxy putty that works great. I'm going to be using this on my van too. I've got some rust holes starting at the top corners of my windshield post. And I don't want to remove the windshield and headliner to cut out the area and weld in patches. My van is going to be a work van/daily driver not a show vehicle.
POR-15 also has some fiberglass cloth that you use with POR-15 instead of resin if the holes are too big for the putty.
The POR-15 stuff isn't the cheapest but I like the results I get with it.
I just spent some time reading on the POR-15 site. This is the route I am going to go when I repair mine. I sent them an inquiry as to the order of application with the metal prep,putty and rust prevention. I will post up their response when I get it.
I'm a big fan of the POR-15 products. Check out a product of theirs called POR patch. It's basically a thicker version of POR-15 and works great in rain gutters. It works a whole lot better then regular seam sealer. It cures hard but still stays flexible. POR-15 is some tough stuff.
Use POR Patch and POR-15 on them and you shouldn't have any more issues for a long time. I'm going to be doing this on the rain gutters on my 89 E350.
And if you have any bigger holes they have some two part epoxy putty that works great. I'm going to be using this on my van too. I've got some rust holes starting at the top corners of my windshield post. And I don't want to remove the windshield and headliner to cut out the area and weld in patches. My van is going to be a work van/daily driver not a show vehicle.
POR-15 also has some fiberglass cloth that you use with POR-15 instead of resin if the holes are too big for the putty.
The POR-15 stuff isn't the cheapest but I like the results I get with it.
Granted POR15 makes some great products. But how many of those little tubes would it require to fill the entire gutter level so water runs off?
A fellow over on vanning.com posted a pic of a cross section of a dodge van gutter. There's so much going on there its hard to see exactly and imagine trying to rebuild that..
The reason Im now wondering, is the vertical outside edge of the gutter doesn't look like it crimps the top on. Maybe annaleigh's suggestion of removing at least the vertical section is possible so that water sheds?
Does anyone have a picture of the cross section of the ford gutter?
I started digging the old seam sealer out today but it looks like most of it is in good shape and I'm wondering why I'm digging the good old toxic stuff out. So far it looks like the seam sealer failed right where the crimped vertical side section was folded over the roof panel or the very top of the gutter. Some of it is completely rusted away and separating due to a roof rack I imagine.
Originally Posted by jayro88
I just spent some time reading on the POR-15 site. This is the route I am going to go when I repair mine. I sent them an inquiry as to the order of application with the metal prep,putty and rust prevention. I will post up their response when I get it.
Granted POR15 makes some great products. But how many of those little tubes would it require to fill the entire gutter level so water runs off?
Most people would paint over the POR-15 products anyways to match the color of the van. So I don't see a big deal about the UV sensitivity. I'm sorry but the Rustoleam paint isn't even in the same ball park as POR-15. But wouldn't be a bad top coat for POR-15.
It would take a few tubes of the POR Patch to do the rain gutters on a vehicle the size of a van. But you don't need to fill the gutters. After all they are rain gutters. They are designed to have the water run down them. You just need to clean them out good and seal them so moisture can't get between the different layers of sheet metal. The problem with a regular seam sealer is eventually it will fail. And when it does you have more rust issues.
The POR products aren't cheap. But once they are applied you don't have to worry about rust in that area again. I plan to keep my van for a long time. So I don't mind spending a little more on some of the products I use on it.
If you are going to use something besides POR-15 make sure to first use something that will remove or convert any rust that is there. If you don't the rust will just continue to get worse and worse.
Most people would paint over the POR-15 products anyways to match the color of the van. So I don't see a big deal about the UV sensitivity. I'm sorry but the Rustoleam paint isn't even in the same ball park as POR-15. But wouldn't be a bad top coat for POR-15.
It would take a few tubes of the POR Patch to do the rain gutters on a vehicle the size of a van. But you don't need to fill the gutters. After all they are rain gutters. They are designed to have the water run down them. You just need to clean them out good and seal them so moisture can't get between the different layers of sheet metal. The problem with a regular seam sealer is eventually it will fail. And when it does you have more rust issues.
The POR products aren't cheap. But once they are applied you don't have to worry about rust in that area again. I plan to keep my van for a long time. So I don't mind spending a little more on some of the products I use on it.
If you are going to use something besides POR-15 make sure to first use something that will remove or convert any rust that is there. If you don't the rust will just continue to get worse and worse.
Thanks. I was wrong, POR15 offers a paint called top coat and I believe it does have UV protectors. My van is white so I figured buy one brand of paint from start to finish.
Im just a little disheartened right now because I found that the back or rear part of my gutter is GONE in a spot and I haven't even made it to the rear doors yet.
Had I known it was this bad, I wouldn't have spent all the time and money I have on this van. This is why I want to fill the entire gutter. To prevent water from sitting since there are no downspouts. lol. The only upside is that the lower half of the van is clean.
Stinks when you find stuff like that. I am having problems seeing the pic, how big of an area is it? If it's not too big of an area you could probably rebuild it with some fiberglass cloth and some fiberglass filler:
I know I will have a few spots that I will have to do this with.
I am a big fan of POR-15 products. Over the last 20 or so years I have used it on areas that had pinholes rusted in it on body panels that I didn't want to replace. The best method that I found to build up an area is to spot sandblast the affected area, paint over with POR-15, then use the fiberglass cloth with the POR-15 to patch an area. After patching, use the POR-15 tie-coat primer and then use whatever spot body filler, , primer, and paint you prefer. I've fixed pretty bad areas that I know for a fact are still fine after 20 years. As far as I am concerned, the trick is getting most all of the rust out that is possible.
I'm going to have to do this on one spot of the drip rail on my Ford bus pretty soon. Maybe even this weekend.
Oh, another thing I would recommend: Any areas the drip rail seam sealer is still intact and in good shape, LEAVE IT ALONE! What they used at the factory is still the best. Just sand, prime, and repaint those areas.
I am a big fan of POR-15 products.The best method that I found to build up an area is to spot sandblast the affected area, paint over with POR-15, then use the fiberglass cloth with the POR-15 to patch an area. After patching, use the POR-15 tie-coat primer and then use whatever spot body filler, , primer, and paint you prefer. I've fixed pretty bad areas that I know for a fact are still fine after 20 years. As far as I am concerned, the trick is getting most all of the rust out that is possible.
I'm going to have to do this on one spot of the drip rail on my Ford bus pretty soon. Maybe even this weekend.
20 years might just outlast me , so you guys sold me on the POR15.
It took me longer than it should have, because I kept puking with disgust about how much drip edge was rusted gone. This is the last time I ever buy a vehicle on the word of the seller and pictures. Here's a video of why you should never park your econoline in a position where the water collects in the back. I will probably regret posting this if and when I try to sell it.
I wouldn't get too worked up over the areas that are rusted on your rain gutters. When you consider the overall length of the rain gutters your problem areas are quite small.
If it was mine I'd get them cleaned up as good as possible. Do the prep work for POR-15 ( their cleaner/degreaser & metal prep ) . Then lay down the POR patch to seal up the gutters. Then apply the POR-15 & paint, etc. And if you really want to completely fill the gutters. Do it after all the POR-15 products have been applied. Then you can use a cheaper product to do that with no worries. Like seam sealer in a caulking tube. Or hell you could even use some of that flex shot crap from the infomercials on tv!
And those rusted outer gutter rails are a perfect spot to use the POR epoxy putty. That stuff is easy to form and when it cures it is hard as steel. You are talking about some small sections of the rain gutter here not big rust holes in a frame rail. It's not the end of the world.
I heard back from POR-15 regarding rain gutter repair and the order in which to apply their product. Here is their response:
Jeremy, The surface needs to be down to bare metal or rust. Remove any loose rust.
Properly clean and prep the surface with our Cleaner Degreaser and Metal Prep. Each product is applied, kept wet 10-15 minutes then rinsed thoroughly with water and allow to dry. Once dry either apply two thin covering coats of POR-15 or squeeze out some of our Por Patch and run your finger along the drip rail. (wear gloves).
Allow the POR-15 to cure then scuff with a maroon scuff pad then apply your final color. Thanks, Mike
I wouldn't get too worked up over the areas that are rusted on your rain gutters. When you consider the overall length of the rain gutters your problem areas are quite small.
If it was mine I'd get them cleaned up as good as possible. Do the prep work for POR-15 ( their cleaner/degreaser & metal prep ) . Then lay down the POR patch to seal up the gutters. Then apply the POR-15 & paint, etc. And if you really want to completely fill the gutters. Do it after all the POR-15 products have been applied. Then you can use a cheaper product to do that with no worries. Like seam sealer in a caulking tube. Or hell you could even use some of that flex shot crap from the infomercials on tv!
And those rusted outer gutter rails are a perfect spot to use the POR epoxy putty. That stuff is easy to form and when it cures it is hard as steel. You are talking about some small sections of the rain gutter here not big rust holes in a frame rail. It's not the end of the world.
No not end of the world, but I'm still upset about the PO lying to me. Not only about the rust, but also his claim the van could tow a 10k load at 75 mph. It could barely tow 8k at 60. The head gasket had a crack and pressurized the oil gallery which starved the back main bearings of oil. Had I pulled the head and replaced the gasket I would have been ok but hind site is 20/20. After $5K in motor work and crawling around the floor of my garage all winter, it pulled that weight up to 90 mph easy.
Back on topic.. I'm considering west systems epoxy because I already have it, mixed with chopped fiberglass (better adhesion, less shrinkage) but cant make up my mind if to use POR15 epoxy putty. I wont try to build the missing vertical edge and have a gutter, but fill it flat like Iv already mentioned.
Originally Posted by jayro88
I heard back from POR-15 regarding rain gutter repair and the order in which to apply their product. Here is their response:
Jeremy, The surface needs to be down to bare metal or rust. Remove any loose rust.
Properly clean and prep the surface with our Cleaner Degreaser and Metal Prep. Each product is applied, kept wet 10-15 minutes then rinsed thoroughly with water and allow to dry. Once dry either apply two thin covering coats of POR-15 or squeeze out some of our Por Patch and run your finger along the drip rail. (wear gloves).
Allow the POR-15 to cure then scuff with a maroon scuff pad then apply your final color. Thanks, Mike
Thanks jayro88. But I'm assuming you only have rust and not a missing gutter like I have.
I have one section above the back door at least 12" long that's missing and I still haven't removed all old bondo yet.
Thanks jayro88. But I'm assuming you only have rust and not a missing gutter like I have.
I have one section above the back door at least 12" long that's missing and I still haven't removed all old bondo yet.
I have a section above the back doors that is pretty bad with some areas rusted through. To try and keep it at bay temporarily I sandblasted as much of the rust out as possible, painted it with some Rustoleum and then filled in the gutter/holes with some acrylic latex caulk. It has definitely slowed down the rust, but not stopped it completely. I am just hoping that it keeps it in check until next spring when it warms up enough to go through and do something more permanent with the POR-15 products. Here a pic, not the best but you get the idea:
but cant make up my mind if to use POR15 epoxy putty. I wont try to build the missing vertical edge and have a gutter, but fill it flat like Iv already mentioned.
I don't think you know how tough that POR putty is. Once it's fully cured it is some very hard stuff. They claim you can even drill and tap threads into it. But I've never tried that with it myself.
Like I said in my other post. I would use their putty to reform/rebuild the gutter wall. That way it will look like there hasn't been a repair. Once it's repaired with the good products, that will end any further rusting. Then you can always fill the gutter with whatever product you want. I wouldn't use the POR putty for that, it would be way too expensive for that much filling. A seam sealer or some type of caulking is a better option for filling. If you fill it with something that hardens. There is a good chance it could eventually break/crack and pop/fall out. Because these van bodies can flex and twist some. But if you do use a seam sealer or a caulking you will want POR-15 or something similar under it. Otherwise you'll just end up with more and worse rust when water gets in under it.
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I plan to keep my van for a long time. So I don't mind spending a little more on some of the products I use on it. 
This is why I want to fill the entire gutter. To prevent water from sitting since there are no downspouts. lol. The only upside is that the lower half of the van is clean.
