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460 ZF starter

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Old Nov 13, 2016 | 06:31 PM
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460 ZF starter

I am at the tail end of a E4OD to ZF5 swap. I purchased a new starter for a 460 w/MT. When I go to start it it sounds like I am stepping on a cats tail. The sticker on in matches up to it being a manual trans starter but it look pretty darn close if not exact to the auto one I have. I do not have a manual one to compare to. Does anyone have a picture that compares the two or how to tell them apart? It seems like I have the wrong starter of something is up with the flywheel. I have been piecing all the parts together, maybe I have some bum parts. Thanks
 
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Old Nov 14, 2016 | 01:37 PM
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I believe on the 460, the auto and manual starters are the same. It's on the 300-302-351W that they are different.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2016 | 01:41 PM
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I heard that but they have different part numbers for AT and MT. All the auto parts shops near me have the auto but have to order the manual. There must be a difference, just not sure what it is.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2016 | 06:11 PM
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They are definitely different. I think it is the 7.3's where it doesn't matter, but could be wrong there.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2016 | 06:20 PM
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The automatic starter throws the gear forward another 1/4" (or more, I forget exactly right now) and won't disengage from a flywheel.

I had a problem with starters when i swapped my Zf5 in too.
Ended up having to push the starter over into the ring gear a little.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2016 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jbas
I heard that but they have different part numbers for AT and MT
Who does? It's not FoMoCo.
460: Ford truck parts catalog makes no mention of A/T or M/T, so the starter is the same for both.

Pic: Scroll down to: E1TZ-11002-C
 
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Old Nov 14, 2016 | 06:58 PM
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Isn't that for the old rocker style direct drive starters?

​​​​​​​I know I had a choice with my pmgr.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2016 | 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
Isn't that for the old rocker style direct drive starters?

​​​​​​​I know I had a choice with my pmgr.
You speaking of the starter w/a Bendix inertia starter drive with the HUGE coil spring? AFAIK, no 429 or 460 came w/a starter like this.

Here's a pic from the 1973/79 Ford car parts catalog, notice that E1TZ-11002-C (same as 1980/89 E/F250/350 460) replaced D7AZ-11002-B that replaced D6AZ-11002-A

And...all 1968/82 460's came with the C6. 1983 was the first year that the 460 was available w/a MT & 4WD
 
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Old Nov 14, 2016 | 07:19 PM
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What I do know is that it sounds terrible and it was starting to tear up the teeth on my flywheel. Its a 97 trans and flywheel if that makes any difference. I purchased them together. I assume they came off the same truck.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2016 | 08:11 AM
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When I look on RockAuto, for a 1990 F250 w/460 (direct drive starter, which is what I have) there is not a difference b/w auto and manual trans. However, when I look at 1997 F250, which is a gear-reduction starter, there are different starters listed for manual and auto trans.

I cannot imagine what is the difference that applies only to the PMGR starter, tho, since the snout would be the same on the 2 types of starters.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2016 | 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by jbas
What I do know is that it sounds terrible and it was starting to tear up the teeth on my flywheel. Its a 97 trans and flywheel if that makes any difference. I purchased them together. I assume they came off the same truck.
The pmgr starters are Lester 3225 & 3226.

I had the same problem you do when I swapped to a Zf-5.
It ate the old style starters like popcorn.
I bought the cheap DB pmgr that was supposed to go with the Zf flywheel and its been working for 5 years.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2016 | 12:33 PM
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ArdWrknTrk I googled the numbers that you mentioned and found this. "Motorcraft PMGR Starter. This Unit Looks Identical to the 3226, BUT FOR ONE VERY IMPORTANT DIFFERENCE. The Front Housing Casting Number is Located to the TOP RIGHT of the Nose Cone, and Reads "F2TU-11131-CA". This is in Contrast to the 3226, Which Has the Casting Number to the TOP LEFT of the Nose Cone. The Reason That These Two WILL NOT INTERCHANGE is That the Offset From the Mounting Ring Center to the Shaft Center Is DIFFERENT. This Causes Fit and Engagement Problems. Another Way to Say it is the 3225 and 3226 Look Identical to All But the Most Trained Eye, YET, The Drive End Housings WILL NOT Interchange in the Applications. Upon Close Inspection the 3226 Has About a 5 Degree or so Difference in the Angle of Opening (When Viewed Straight On and Focusing on the Position of the Bottom of the Opening in Relation to the Lower Mounting Hole) Than Does the 3225. An Easier Way to See it is to Compare the Position of the Left Most Nose COne Brace on Both Units in Relation to the Bottom Mounting Hole. The 3225 Has This Last Brace Further Left Than the 3226 (When Looking Straight On). The Top Mounting Ear is Tapped 3/8" - 16. The 3246 is the Same Unit, Except Using the Later Ignition "Stud" on the Solenoid (LH), Rather Than the ?" Spade (LH). Replacement Units May Come Equipped With Both an Ignition Stud and Attached Spade For Use as Either a 3225 or 3246". So this explains the issue. It looks like I was sent the wrong starter.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2016 | 06:57 PM
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The spade terminal was always a weak link. They would corrode and then the vehicle wouldn't start.
When i installed mine I just put a ring terminal on the trigger wire.
​​​​​​​(must save their tech 30 seconds installing a starter?)

I'm glad you've found your problem and hope your supplier makes good on their mistake.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2020 | 11:26 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by jbas
ArdWrknTrk I googled the numbers that you mentioned and found this. "Motorcraft PMGR Starter. This Unit Looks Identical to the 3226, BUT FOR ONE VERY IMPORTANT DIFFERENCE. The Front Housing Casting Number is Located to the TOP RIGHT of the Nose Cone, and Reads "F2TU-11131-CA". This is in Contrast to the 3226, Which Has the Casting Number to the TOP LEFT of the Nose Cone. The Reason That These Two WILL NOT INTERCHANGE is That the Offset From the Mounting Ring Center to the Shaft Center Is DIFFERENT. This Causes Fit and Engagement Problems. Another Way to Say it is the 3225 and 3226 Look Identical to All But the Most Trained Eye, YET, The Drive End Housings WILL NOT Interchange in the Applications. Upon Close Inspection the 3226 Has About a 5 Degree or so Difference in the Angle of Opening (When Viewed Straight On and Focusing on the Position of the Bottom of the Opening in Relation to the Lower Mounting Hole) Than Does the 3225. An Easier Way to See it is to Compare the Position of the Left Most Nose COne Brace on Both Units in Relation to the Bottom Mounting Hole. The 3225 Has This Last Brace Further Left Than the 3226 (When Looking Straight On). The Top Mounting Ear is Tapped 3/8" - 16. The 3246 is the Same Unit, Except Using the Later Ignition "Stud" on the Solenoid (LH), Rather Than the ?" Spade (LH). Replacement Units May Come Equipped With Both an Ignition Stud and Attached Spade For Use as Either a 3225 or 3246". So this explains the issue. It looks like I was sent the wrong starter.
I am having the same issue with a truck I recently purchased. Which is the correct starter? 3225 or 3226? Your post is a bit confusing. Thank you.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2020 | 12:23 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by jbas
I am at the tail end of a E4OD to ZF5 swap. I purchased a new starter for a 460 w/MT. When I go to start it it sounds like I am stepping on a cats tail. The sticker on in matches up to it being a manual trans starter but it look pretty darn close if not exact to the auto one I have. I do not have a manual one to compare to. Does anyone have a picture that compares the two or how to tell them apart? It seems like I have the wrong starter of something is up with the flywheel. I have been piecing all the parts together, maybe I have some bum parts. Thanks
This may not be of much help, but, here are pics of my 460/E4OD starter for comparison. New starters come with the spade terminal being replaced by a bolted on terminal and a short piece of wire. You cut off the spade and splice and heat shrink into this short wire.




 
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