Sending unit nut size?
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From: SOUTHERN LOUISIANA
Sending unit nut size?
I have this oem temp sender for my 76 F100. I want to run the factory and an aftermarket temp gauge on this if possible. I think I could just use two rings terminals on the same post. Please advise if that can be done. My main issue is I cannot find a nut that will thread onto the terminal post. #8 x 32 is to small and #10 is to big. Can someone please advise as to what size thread the terminal post is or what type of boot would terminate that line? Thank you.
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From: Stanley, VA
It could be a 10-24 instead of a 10-32, same with the #8. Now days it could also be metric 
.
Since you already have the sender, I would take it with me to a good hardware store, not your big box home center, one that has tray after tray of fasteners that are loose, not packaged. And find the correct one to fit.
A lot of times they have thread gauges, same goes for the home centers, they usually have thread gauges somewhere around the fastener section.
As far as running two gauges off of one sender, I don't know how well that would work. The gauges are designed to ground through that connection. I can see power back-feeding from one gauge to the other through the common connection at the sender.
.Since you already have the sender, I would take it with me to a good hardware store, not your big box home center, one that has tray after tray of fasteners that are loose, not packaged. And find the correct one to fit.
A lot of times they have thread gauges, same goes for the home centers, they usually have thread gauges somewhere around the fastener section.
As far as running two gauges off of one sender, I don't know how well that would work. The gauges are designed to ground through that connection. I can see power back-feeding from one gauge to the other through the common connection at the sender.
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From: SOUTHERN LOUISIANA
I was planning on trying this local hardware tomorrow that usually has what I'm looking for. I just happened to be at the depot today and had the sender in my truck. As far as running both gauges, would it work to piggy back or jump the two wires together outside the terminal post. And does anyone know about the blue insulator I keep reading about that originally would have been on that post?
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
F1SZ-10884-A (replaced DOWY-10884-A & DOZZ-10884-A) .. Water Temperature Sending Unit (Motorcraft SW-2328) / Available from Ford and auto parts stores.
1970/96: F100/350, Bronco & Econoline & misc FoMoCo Passenger Cars.
This sending unit has a threaded stud that the end of the temp gauge wire fits onto, so why would a nut be required?
1970/96: F100/350, Bronco & Econoline & misc FoMoCo Passenger Cars.
This sending unit has a threaded stud that the end of the temp gauge wire fits onto, so why would a nut be required?
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Stanley, VA
The OP wants to try and run two gauges off of one sending unit (I don't know that this would work) and he's using wiring with ring terminals or something similar for the hook up, not the normal slip on terminal.
Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
OK, gotcha!
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From: SOUTHERN LOUISIANA
I'm in the process of running an entire new wiring harness from American auto wire (great harness and tech support). The water temp wire in the new harness ends in just bare wire right now, no termination. I'm no longer planning on running two gauges from this sender. I'm instead going to run the factory gauge from the stock location and a mechanical gauge from the manifold. I still would like to terminate the stock water temp wire correctly however. I'm running redundancy because I'm also restoring the gauge cluster and would like my new gauges to work properly.
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Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
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From: Stanley, VA
I'm in the process of running an entire new wiring harness from American auto wire (great harness and tech support). The water temp wire in the new harness ends in just bare wire right now, no termination. I'm no longer planning on running two gauges from this sender. I'm instead going to run the factory gauge from the stock location and a mechanical gauge from the manifold. I still would like to terminate the stock water temp wire correctly however. I'm running redundancy because I'm also restoring the gauge cluster and would like my new gauges to work properly.
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From: SOUTHERN LOUISIANA
Got it done. Used a female bullet terminal to slide over the stud on the electric sender. Installed electric sender in factory spot on manifold. I ran mechanical from same spot as it was before before. I also ran new mechanical oil sender for new gauge set. Thanks for all y'all help and advice.
1st Gear
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Old thread I know but I haven’t seen this info any place else. I have an 84 f150 and my temp sending unit wire has a ring connector, not a boot. May not be stock, but it is the correct red/wht wire.
in any case, was replacing the sending unit, found that the PO had jammed an 8/32 nut on there, it would not tighten. Measured the threads of my new sender, and they are legitimately 36 tpi, which is not a size you can find at any regular hardware store. I think I’ll need to look for a boot connector
in any case, was replacing the sending unit, found that the PO had jammed an 8/32 nut on there, it would not tighten. Measured the threads of my new sender, and they are legitimately 36 tpi, which is not a size you can find at any regular hardware store. I think I’ll need to look for a boot connector
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