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Old Oct 26, 2016 | 09:09 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Glowplugger
Not to hijack, but does anyone have a part number for the bosch (most reliable?) pump?

Edit: Oops, found it. Bosch part number 69136 and 79.00 at Amazon. 240.00 at Oreillys! That's unusual!
That was the weakest hijack ever dude!

I'd worry if the Amazoo item was real. I got a knockoff as a spare for $35 IIRC. Real deal only at Riff Raff for $120.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 04:26 AM
  #32  
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I don't recall any 6000 series DTC codes, but a P0603 is as common as a Trump faux pas after the batteries have been disconnected.

Steve, can you monitor ICP/IPR? If the balance is out, that could explain things. Have you tried disconnecting the ICP to see what happens?
 
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 06:54 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by aawlberninf350
That was the weakest hijack ever dude!

I'd worry if the Amazoo item was real. I got a knockoff as a spare for $35 IIRC. Real deal only at Riff Raff for $120.

Haha! Well, I didn't want to tick off the OP for asking a q in his thread so I apologized at the start.

I'll let you guys know when it gets here on Friday. Riff Raff might be a sponsor, but unfortunately 9 times out of 10 they're too high for me to consider. Though that fuel bowl rebuild kit was a great thing and worth every penny. Plus I couldn't find it anywhere else!
 
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 07:32 AM
  #34  
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I am terrible to go sideways in a thread and never thought about it. Truck has been flat bedded home. Got to the point where nothing at all was going to the filter. Will update when I know more. Borrowing a friends 7.3 to go get fiver this morning (if he remembered to leave the keys in it).

Steve
 
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 11:31 AM
  #35  
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Well that says fuel pump to me, if it has power to it.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 02:20 PM
  #36  
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Ding, ding, ding, ding, if you voted replace the fuel pump you are a winner! I picked up a Bosch at Advance. still have to deal with the in-tank situation, but truck is viable again.

Here was the progression for me. First I noticed the engine sounded off. It still started and ran fine, but it sounded like it was working harder than normal pulling a load on grades. Then my idle got off just a tick every once in a while. It normally is road solid. I do monitor my IPR readings and they did not seem to change, at least not so I noticed.

Then the engine got noticeably rougher. When it first started it felt like the vibration you get when a universal goes out all at once, but intermittent. Then it would mostly, but not completely smooth out.

Finally it got to running really rough and that was when I started posting. The most obvious change was it went from opening the filter drain and a little ran out to turning on the ignition with the drain open and having nothing come out at all. By then it barely ran and made an incredible racket.

I do appreciate all the posts and food for thought.

Steve
 
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 03:48 PM
  #37  
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I appreciate the follow up and congratulations on getting 'er going again without spending too much time or unnecessary money.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 05:20 PM
  #38  
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Glad you got it Steve. If it dose it again, drop the tank for sure. Ask me how I know.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 05:53 PM
  #39  
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I intend to anyway. I would drop the tank now, but it is still 3/4 full!

Steve
 
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 06:17 PM
  #40  
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I had someone dump something in mine and it took out three pumps before I dropped the tank. Las Vegas Valet parking too. Anyway that was my problem before got into it. God bless , I'm sure you won't have that, I hope, but doing the tank mods is always a good idea.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2016 | 11:59 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Glowplugger
Haha! Well, I didn't want to tick off the OP for asking a q in his thread so I apologized at the start.

I'll let you guys know when it gets here on Friday. Riff Raff might be a sponsor, but unfortunately 9 times out of 10 they're too high for me to consider. Though that fuel bowl rebuild kit was a great thing and worth every penny. Plus I couldn't find it anywhere else!

Just an update because I said I would. The pump from Amazon for cheap is a real Bosch pump. Retail packaging, stamped pump, and install instructions.




EDIT: HOWEVER>>>> If you have an aftermarket crapo' pump you will need to somehow get an OEM outlet fuel connector to screw into the end. It doesn't come with one! I'm searching for an adapter for mine right now. The old connector is M8x1.25 and the OEM is 10x1.0.

Here's a thread from ages ago from a guy with the same problem.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...fuel-pump.html


EDIT 2: Found the part.

It's part number DD-10mm-05QD for $39.95 at https://www.strictlydiesel.com/p-396...oem-style.aspx
 
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Old Oct 31, 2016 | 05:41 PM
  #42  
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Here is a follow-up. Ran the truck the first time tonight pulling our fifth wheel. Where the heck did the cackle go? I didn't realize how bad it was until it is mostly gone. My pump must have been failing and allowing a lot of air to the injectors for a good while. Sure sounds better.

Steve
 
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Old Oct 31, 2016 | 06:59 PM
  #43  
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Good glad it seems to be doing better for you!!
 
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Old Oct 31, 2016 | 07:15 PM
  #44  
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Steve, good to hear you are on the road again...

Wait until you get done with the Hutch/Harpoon mod, you will think you have the wrong truck it will be so quiet... Well, not that much but it does make a big difference.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2016 | 05:06 PM
  #45  
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One of the things I am noticing is the Bosch pump runs for about 20 seconds to build pressure when I turn the key. I never heard the OEM pump. From reading on the Internet it sounds normal, but I am not sure why I never heard the OEM pump in the past.

The truck runs and starts fine.

Steve
 
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