Hi guys,

i "cleaned" my bump under the dash. Now I found a wire where I am not sure what it is I´m not sure if it´s brown or black... And it feels strange. Not like a "normal" wire... more like the pink resistor wire...
According the wire diagram it "must be" the black wire, which goes, with a splice, to the voltage regulator (wire #98).
Hwo can tell me if it is an NORMAL wire or a resistor wire?? I have to extend it.





Dirk

 

I'm thinking it was originally violet colored. #977. This turns the brake warning lamp on while the key is on "start" so the driver knows that lamp is working.

 

Speaking of mysterious wires, I've got some under my dash that I need to figure out where the hell they go...

 

Your right. It is a violet wire. And it IS a resistor wire. Now i hope that it´s not so bad i cut it

@Jeffafa,

this wiring diagram looks different like that one what i used. My bump is from 1968 but this wiring diagram is from 69 But on your one, is this wire correct VIOLET But the wire is #98 from this wiring diagram and it is indicated as black.






Is it possible that my wiring harnes is a mix from 68 an 69??

best regards
Dirk

 

#98 appears to connect to the charge indicator light and the "I" terminal of the VR. It shares the same terminal in the connector as the large black-green stripe wire in your photo. It may be a 15 ohm resistor wire.

 

I didn't remember what year your rig is. In your pic it looks like a red striped 69 Ranger grille.
#297 is the black/green stripe wire in the same position as the mysterious wire. But it's in a different position comparing this schematic to the schematic in post #4!!!

 

Why can't they label what each wire is for/does. What good is the color except for tracing? It's like half the story.

If they did this then maybe guys like me would understand wiring a little more. This where engineers just don't seem to be able to " dumb down ".

 

#297 is shown in the position we want here also.

 

Is the wire hot all the time? Is it hot only when key is turned? Please give more detail. if the wire is hot all the time, then it's most likely a low voltage wire for radio or etc.... If it is a wire that is hot when key is on, then you have to trace it. Electrical is not my specialty, however, I understand the complexity of wiring. Deduce the wiring diagram and tell us what your dealing with! Why this wire? What makes you think this wire has any thing to do with your problem? Electrical is for those who understand VOLTS!!! For us other people, we need to know what your tracing.
Extending the wire you pictured, means replacing wire. ("Do not splice or extend") Some wiring involves more learning then what is given here.
You actually have to have the understanding of electrical components that exist in your vehicle to do a complete diagnosis of problem. Electrical issues normally have to do with "Grounding" Once grounding is ruled out, then one can determine or isolate the problem.
Complicated? You bet. But you can learn from the guys/ gals on here.

 

I guess because sometimes a certain wire is used in different circuits. You just have to follow the lines to see where a wire goes.

 

The wire is hot on key position "Accy only" and "Accy & Coil". And i follow the wire. It is exactly the wire #98 (color is violet!!) BUT it is a resistor wire!! But according to the wiring diagram is NOT a resistor wire That makes me stupid...

 

Resistor wire is rated in in OHMS (Ω) per inch or foot.
The amount of resistance per inch or foot is dependent on the material and it's cross section


For example Lets say you needed 30 oms resistance and had a run of 30". In the 30" run you could use 15" of 2Ω per inch resistance wire and 15" of regular wire. Ideally when designing circuits that have resistance wire in them you want to run resistance wire for the whole run to eliminate splices. So in this 30" run you would use 1Ω per inch resistance wire.

You can extend resistance wire with regular wire with no issues as it is the resistance wires length that will determine the resistance in the circuit the added in copper wire will not affect this resistance.

You want to cut the resistance wire so you retain as much of the length as possible and then use as little as possible for connecting to the regular copper wire. Crimp on butt connectors work good for this, do NOT solder the resistance wire as the solder may not take to it, or may wick up the wire reducing the resistance as the solder then becomes the current carrying component.

If you have to splice in the middle of it that is ok, since you are not actually reducing or increasing the the length of the resistance wire, again just be sure to use the smallest amount possible when doing the terminations/splices.
Ideally you want to extend on the end of the resistance wire and on not in the middle.

Be sure to adhere to sound electrical practices when do it, that means cleaning the resistance wire of oxidization and using a Anti-Oxidant compound on the terminations to insure proper conductivity, Be aware some resistance wire needs silver soldering to make a good connection so check to see how the current (no pun intended) resistance wire is terminated.

 

So Cruzer was right all along and the schematics are screwed up. I REPed him for it.

 

Got it. Still wish there was a way...