So I did a hydroboost conversion on my truck this weekend and now I'm thinking about the fact that I don't have any warning if I loose the power steering pump where as I did have a warning (from the vacuum switch) if I lost the vacuum pump.

Has anyone done anything with regards to this or are you just expecting sudden power steering pump failure is simple too rare?

 

Something I just never thought about 'til reading your post. Seems like the most likely cause of losing a power steering pump is a belt failure, in which case you'll probably get an alternator failure light. I think power steering pumps usually fail slowly and get noisy and/or leak before they outright fail.

Not saying you shouldn't figure a way to have a warning, but in my case it's just something I've never considered.

 

I think when the pump fails it is very noticeable. When a line blows off the pump it is very obvious as well. The steering is very heavy with out the pump and the brakes would be the same as if the vacuum pump failed. Not impossible to stop just standing on the pedal with your hands under the steering wheel for extra pressure

 

How is working the hidroboost? very noticeable difference from stock?. The conversion was easy?

 

^^^^^ This. Yes, you're still at risk, esp. with the extra hydraulic lines. But you'll know it a lot sooner, because you'll feel it in the wheel almost right away. The reason they put a failure warning light in the vacuum circuit is that your boost could fail while you're just cruising merrily down the street, and wouldn't know it until you need to brake, at which time it could be tragically too late. With steering failure, you're more likely to notice it _before_ you absolutely need it, and would have more time to react.

Hmm, anybody know what sort of hydraulic pressures are in play with PS / hydroboost? I wonder if a sender like an engine oil pressure sender could be teed into the hydraulics, and wired to a dash light (shrug).

Also keep in mind that the brake hydraulic failure warning is still in effect. That's a more critical warning. As said, with boost failure, you can still use the brakes provided suffficient muscle input. With hydraulic failure, you're Fred Flintstone-ing it.

 

Jose,

When I got my truck the brakes were real bad. I couldn't believe the previous owner had been driving it that way. I discovered that one of the rear brake self adjusting cables had never been reconnected by whoever worked on it last. Fixed that and the brakes were still not good at all.

The hydroboost was a huge improvement. Not perfect as it seems like I can still feel a slight hesitation before the rear drums are activated. Probably the best overall way to go would be to also get rear disks and a proportioning valve that is set up for rear disks. But, never having tried that I don't know for sure.

It's a fairly easy mod. Going from memory, I got a SD hydroboost unit, a SD hydroboost hose that has a tee in it to supply the hydroboost flow from the power steering pump and a new SD power steering pump. All you really need is the SD plastic reservoir that has the extra nipple for the fluid return from the master cylinder but I went ahead and got the whole new pump since I didn't know the history on my old one.

As I recall, you should get a Ford hydroboost because some or all of the aftermarket ones don't come with the pushrod that connects them to the master cylinder.

The SD hydroboost unit has a slightly wider bolt pattern where it bolts to the existing master cylinder. I had to take a rat tail file and sort of ovalize the bolt holes. Other than that it was pretty straight forward.

Almost forgot. The hydroboost connection to the brake pedal linkage is at a higher elevation than the vacuum boost connection was. You have to move the connecting pin on the pedal arm up and back by a half inch or so. This is a little bit of a project and requires some minor welding. I've read threads where guys didn't move the pin but it puts the brake linkage at an angle and also your brake pedal ends up a little higher off the floor than stock. In an emergency having to lift your foot up another inch to get to the brake pedal can make a difference so I wouldn't run mine without moving that pin.

 

or get a F450 master cylinder that has a bigger bore thus more fluid to push but you need to open the mounting holes a li bit to fit it

 

Bob, thank you, very good write up Tried to rep you but Im in Jail.



Ok, thank you too. Rep sent.