So I was removing the mechanical fuel pump to install an electric one when the head of one of the bolts just twisted right off. I got the fuel pump off no problem. I drilled out the bolt just big enough to get an extractor in, then the extractor snapped!
How do I get the sheared bolt out?
This is on my 73 SCS with a 460

 

Did you use the correct size easy-out for the bolt size, or one that's smaller? The smaller the easy-out, the easier it is to wring off. The problem now is the broken piece that's in the cover. These are hardened and are, at best, very difficult to remove if they're broken flush or below flush to the surface.
It might be easier to replace the cover with another one.
That's a little pricey but it might be the best way. Rock Auto has them for $73.79.
1973 FORD F-350 7.5L 460cid V8 Timing Cover | RockAuto

 

Ya I have used a carbide cutting tip in my die grinder with the cover off. It,s a pain.

 

Good luck on getting that easy out removed. Like Mike mentioned ^^^ that they are so hard that they are even brittle.
I broke one off in a head years ago, and couldn't get it out.

 

you never mentioned if the extractor snapped off in the bold. Is it in the bolt or did the tip fall out?? If it's still in the bolt, sometimes tapping it with a center punch on opposite sides may make it fall out, then your are back to your bolt issue. If the extractor isn't in the bolt, drill it out again and use a bigger extractor or drill it out completely and retap new threads. It's one of very few options in this situation. Personally, I'd just replace the timming cover if it's never been replaced just so it doesn't ever happen again on the opposite side when installing the block off plate.....or incase you decide to go mechanical again...

 

Regardless of what you finally decide, a word of advice: Never-seize!
Use an anti-seize compound on the threads of the new bolts. This is especially important whenever you have steel bolts in aluminum parts. My personal preference is the nickle based compounds but copper based works just as well in this application.

 

+1 on Nickel NeverSeize




This stuff is beyond the beez kneez.....

 

Throw away the rest of your Harbor Freight extractor set...Go to Fastenall and get a quality set of drill bits. Norseman! http://www.norsemandrill.com/ I broke exhaust manifold bolts, then cheap drill bits and then extractors off in some heads changing to headers..3 on one side 2 on the other. And then again on another truck.

1. You have to be able to get in there, so pull the front clip (easier than a inner/outer lone fender, or the motor. Seriously! Or the radiator, p/s pump what ever is in the way. Jack it up, pull a tire (jack stands!!!) and make it so you can really get in there. Not just lean over the core support.
2. Get a dremel with a high quality point bit/real small drill bit, and drill around the broken off extractor. In a clock # pattern.
3. Make sure you punch drill (straight in) around the extractor and as close to it you can be, to not trash the threads in the block. Do not go to deep, put a piece of tape on the bit, to keep your depth in ck.
4. Hopefully you can get the extractor out that way. Clock pattern will let you stray straight around the extractor, then angle drill to connect the clock #'s Make sense? Then center punch the broken bolt part, then continue to work the middle material out. Using the step up drill bit technique, (NOT a cone shaped step bit) till you are almost at the original bolt size.
5. Use a quality pick to break out the left over parts of bolt in the threads. Chase the threads with a tap, if you can save the threads you got lucky. If not look at a heli coil insert KIT. SAME size as the broken bolt.

If you do not center punch it you will drill off center and drill out your original threads, then just go helicoil.