We just bought an old Allis-Chalmers B with a 6ft belly mower. Runs good, no smoke, but it has been mostly sitting in a shed for the Las 3 years or so.

When I pulled the dipstick, the oil was very cloudy and appears to be very moisture laiden.

What's the best way to get the moisture out of the crankcase? My plan right now was to just change the oil and hope for the best, but I got to wondering if there is a good way to flush the moisture out.

When I had this problem in the gearcase of my Massey Harris, I just filled the gearcase with diesel and let it soak. That worked well and got it pretty clean, but I'm hesitant to do that on an engine of unknown condition. I'm afraid of loosening up some crud and causing more problems.




On the way home



Oil on the bayonet



Top of cylinder head from the oil fill/breather.



What came out



In the pan

Any thoughts?

 

IMHO, drain it, run it to get it up to operating temp and drain it.

 

Good idea to drain the oil, don't forget to change the filter if it has one & I agree run it to get it good & warm to evaporate remaining moisture & keep an eye on the lube condition using the poor mans oil analysis spot check on blotter paper in the Tech Info section. Then do another Hot oil & filter change when you feel it's time, before winter sets in.

 

I think that's going to be the plan. It's still on the trailer drip-drip-dripping so when I get the time ill go back out to the shed and change filter and fill it back up.

I think for round one, I'm going to use up the gallon of oil I drained out of the 806 when I accidentally overfilled the sump. The oil has maybe 10-15 hrs on it so this is a good use for it IMO. I think ill mow down some of the thistle trees I've been growing all summer, then change it out after a couple hours worth of use.

On a side note, I ordered a filter for it from Napa. For a lots of good reading, type "Napa 1101" into google and wade through the plethora of information that comes up regarding this filter with regard to oil pressure. It appears that the filter may not be restrictive enough to play well with the bypass system that feeds the filter and the top half of the engine.

 

^ Sounds like a plan. Cut the old filter open to determine if it's loaded with sludge or not & that can sorta help decide how long to run this puppy on the clean up cycle without clogging up the new filter & having it go into the unfiltered bypass mode.
I'd also consider changing the other fluids & filters too, before the mowing session to get the engine good & warm, as they've likely been ignored too. Bet with a little scheduled maintenance TLC this puppy will run real good & last a lot longer, while doing it's thing. Let us know what you find & how it goes

 

I found this online and the points of service for fluid is astounding.





From what I read, hy-trans will make a good substitute for the 20w recommended in the transmission.

Also not sure where id find GL1 sae 140 for final drive and steering gear. It will likely get the GL1 sae 90 I used in the Massey. I don't expect to do anything except mowing with it.

 

I bought a gallon jug of (Warren) Warren Oil Co Inc, Dunn NC, GL-1 140wt lube for my tiller gear train from my local Motorcraft Distributor Basham Oil. I've see it in Farm/Tractor supply stores like Tractor Supply & the like & later in some local auto parts stores & places like Northern Tool, ect, that sell lawn & garden equipt.
EDIT: The GL-1 is likely specified because of the presents of yellow metal, brass/phosphor bronze bearings, ect, that some friction modifiers might not be friendly to over time, so take the time to come by the specified GL-1, 140 viscosity.