Anybody using those big blue Donaldson filters that Riff-raff sells? I put one on with an oil change a few days ago. Couple of things I noticed:

-Hangs down about even with the bottom of the oil pan, and was lightly scuffing the side of the filter on the side of the pan as I twisted it on.
-Takes 17 quarts to fill the pan now instead of 15.
-Motor will run out of ICP and shut itself off unless you either pre-fill it (the filter) or jump the starter relay for 10 seconds or so to build oil pressure. Stock sized filter you can just fire it up with the key and will fill itself fast enough.
-PCV vent tube gases smell nice. Like how the oil smells in the bottle. I had not put new oil in since venting it.

I am also hoping for better luck with the Fumoto drain valve than I had with the EZ. The EZ in my case did not seal well against the pan and caused a seepage mess on the bottom. The gasket on the Fumoto seems to seal much better but I have not driven it enough yet to tell. If that one makes a mess too I will go back to the plug.

I took a sample and sent it in to Blackstone and await my light scolding for running the oil and filter 11,300 miles. 2/3rd's of that was highway miles at least, and it was good oil...Mobil Delvac-1 5W40. We'll see. The last sample of T6 I send in at around 7500 miles they said was fine still.

 

I just installed one of my last oil change. I prefilled You definitely need to use both hands when reinstalling it .

 

What's the reason for using one of those? A Motorcaft filter is just fine, I've seen 7.3 trucks with over 500K on them that used nothing but Motorcraft filters and regular 15w40 oil.

 

I guess it is a little wider than stock. The stock white filter is fine and that is what I had on there prior to a few days ago. Riff-raff sells these for an extra 10 bucks or so, so I decided to try it. Coupled with synthetic oil it theoretically should allow extended drain intervals because of the added filtering surface and the extra two quarts of oil.

 

I only have input on the Fumoto valve.

I installed one on my truck a couple years ago and it allows me to drain the oil into a couple of empty gallon containers so that I can easily turn them into an auto parts store for recycling.

I liked the Fumoto drain valve so much I bought one for our Subaru as well. Now I can change the oil and filter on the Subaru and the truck on the road when going cross country with little to no tools.

I give the valve a

 

Seems better than the other one. I just dump the old oil into the fuel tank usually.

 

Always prefill the filter. Why would you want to run the motor with low/no oil pressure longer than absolutely necessary?

 

I've heard it's how you pre fill the filter which is the problem. Being you want to pour it around the center hole so it's being filtered.

A diesel tech who works for CAT has a video on YouTube about this topic and says make sure you pour it in the filter correctly or do not do it all, his channel is Adept Ape. A kid who went to diesel tech school told me not to prefil it.

I have always prefilled mine

 

Here's the video

 

I've prefilled every filter I've ever changed on every motor I've owned, don't want it running "dry" till it's filled even for a few seconds.

No personal experience so can't comment on the Donaldson blue. Although I'm proponent of more filter media whenever possible


I run a LF9691 with Triax 5-40 full synthetic

We do use Donaldson brand where i work on our lube systems. We run em 24/7 365, and change filters every 3-6 months depending on which application, along with full oil analysis. They are a good brand to use

 

Damn thsts a huge filter..
Got a fumoto and that blue gasket is the kats meow.

 

I agree...it's a Japanese part and they are persnickety about everything. The gasket seats much nicer and the body itself has a very precise fitting for a 19mm open end wrench to snug it down. The EZ valve I had to use an adjustable wrench because every open end I tried that was close wanted to slip around the fitting. So I'm giving that one two thumbs down. Usually Riff-Raff only sells the good stuff but here is a rare case where they aren't. (If anybody want's ill ship it to you. I cleaned it up and threw it in my box-o-parts. Maybe somebody else will have better luck with it if they put a new O-ring in it.)

 

I've seen a few of his videos including that one. According to him CAT even says not to bother pre-filling it. Personally I have never bothered as I don't believe briefly running an already warm engine at idle is hurting anything since there is oil already coating everything from when I shut it off 30 minutes ago. That being said I don't drain the oil on a cold engine and always run the motor and warm it up at least a little bit and give everything a good coating before draining it. (helps it drain faster also). There is nothing wrong with pre-filling it the correct way if you like to do that though. This engine has the curious detail of shutting itself off after 5-6 seconds without oil pressure when the HPOP reservoir runs low, so it is pretty much impossible to ruin one of these motors due to lack of lubrication. I have heard stories of plugs falling out and 4 gallons of oil falling onto the roadway. Injectors shut off, engine is fine.

 

running the hpop out of oil on a running motor can't be ok for it imo

 

Why the injectors just stop firing? I did it four years ago racing a dog to the vet while in BFE bird hunting and I just ignored the check engine lite till the truck just shut off. I popped the hood and oil was everywhere the riff raff oil cross over kit o ring failed. Thank God I kept the plugs just had to get oil...