I have a similar crack on my bumper pull toy hauler. I was curious to know how a repair could be made. In the short term, to prevent any further damage, what should I do?

 

If the insurance company isn't going to cover any of it and if you are handy I would repair it myself. I did both sides of ours over a two year period with a total cost under $300 and my time. It's hard to see but I had water damage all the way into the inside of the trailer so some of the paneling had to be replaced. I. Used a cut down 2x10 and lots of glue.

Denny

 

Great job, but my age just will no longer allow me to go THAT deep into the trailer.....

 

I am just back in town. Yes, delam repair is pricey and not easy to do. Normally a sidewall can run 20 k or more. Personally, I would not put that kind of money into the camper. A do-it-yourself repair could well last you ten years or more. Not meaning this in a negative way, but that camper is just too old to ever get that kind of investment out of it and you can continue to use it just the way it is.

Steve

 

Could be Greg, that it shows that ragged is because I stop-drilled it at various times while that crack was first forming. Then as the stress continued it toll it just re-developed along the path of least resistance. I also kept filling the crack with the caulk that was used by Northwood for body putty.

Steve, how warm does it have to be to use the sealant (epoxy) that you might recommend? Am I looking at waiting until spring to do it myself too?

 

Bump for Steve

 

Now thinking of just sanding the crack flat and using Eternabond (Eternabond Microsealant Tape
to seal it to keep water out and make it somewhat a little more pleasing to the eye. Also hoping that by NOT making a permanent repair to the crack, and as it hasn't grown any further, that the air gap provided by the crack is relieving the stress and stopping the progress. Oh yeah, now that the small delam bubble has dried, it has flattened and not noticeable anymore.

 

I would probably do what you are suggesting. Digging further could and will create more work.

 

Now just gotta wait for some warmer weather...... thanks for the advise Scott.

 

I too would go that route. When you are starting the project, just remember we like pictures.

Do you plan to use epoxy in the crack at all the aid in the repair?

 

I think not.... I don't want to make that joint rigid.... I WANT it to flex. Won't start until temps come back to OVER 55*.... so, prob spring. It is NOT leaking now and is parked beside the house and winterized.

 

After checking the weather I see no more RAIN until at least a week so I started the repair. I got out the heat gun and screwdriver and starting removing the trim strips...boy, did they ever use a LOT of some kind of dark grey sticky caulk on the inside of the trim strips !! That was the hardest part of getting it apart !!!

Now, looking forward to replacing those strips does anyone know what the caulk is that is used to fill them with? It looks like that's what they did...filled the strip with this gunk then placed it into position and then screwed it to the RV. I also found out they used 3 different type screw heads to do it too.... they must have just reached into a bucket of screws and used whatever came out.

Anyway, got down to the damaged area and it does look like water drained down the slideout weather stripping (the big rubber flap) to the bottom then had no place to go but splash out and also drain into the area at the corner of the bottom of where the rubber flap is not very well sealed or positioned inward to where I do not know.... I do know it -or some of tit got inside the filon and sat for who knows how long?

Anyway, I got all the caulk cleaned up from the body and trim strips and cut the filon crack all the way to the bottom so there isn't any more stress on it... I used the heat gun to dry out a large area then covered the area with plastic to let it air out and hopefully dry up some over the next few days.... the sun comes back out tomorrow. I know this is kinda long-winded, but it might help if anyone else runs into a problem where they have to take siding strips off.....

I would appreciate it if anyone knows what type of caulk I should use to put inside these trim strips! Thanks for listening.

 

Dang, duplicated post but I don't know how I did that!

 

I don't know what they used as manufacturers are all different and they change depending on their favorite vendor. I think the most important thing there is not a specific brand as much as getting a good quality caulk. Again Dicor makes some stuff that is not self-leveling and there are other good brands. Check online. Here's a thought. You can call Dicor and talk with them. I know I have in the past when I had a question. Try giving them a call.

Steve

 

I'd bet that grey sticky caulk is something like . Pretty common for that kind of application. Others use a 3M double sided tape that isn't as messy, but worse to get off and replace.