.... you old salt !!! Yup...it takes one to know one.
DELAMINATION
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
I think we may talking about different issues. In my opinion, the crack is a stress fracture and is not due to delamination. I say this because it is always in the same place when it occurs and delam does not cause cracking. Again, in my opinion, the adjuster simply blew off the claim by blaming it on the seals.
Now what you should find behind the seal flange is tacky or buytl tape, then the flange screwed or in some cases stapled and screwed on. The screws should be caulked, and then the screw cover goes over that. Some of the flanges simply stick on with double back tape.
My only position in all of this is I do not buy that a leaking seal caused the crack as if that were the case, I would see the crack at least some of the time on the rear of the slide, which I never do. I do, however, see it with much greater frequency on fivers that have been horse trailered.
Steve
Now what you should find behind the seal flange is tacky or buytl tape, then the flange screwed or in some cases stapled and screwed on. The screws should be caulked, and then the screw cover goes over that. Some of the flanges simply stick on with double back tape.
My only position in all of this is I do not buy that a leaking seal caused the crack as if that were the case, I would see the crack at least some of the time on the rear of the slide, which I never do. I do, however, see it with much greater frequency on fivers that have been horse trailered.
Steve
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 585
Likes: 4
We agree, Steve. I see what you were talking about now, although I can't recall seeing a stress crack that ragged, but they are just about all at the front corner of the slide.
Need to find a cause for both the crack and delamination. A leak would explain both. A leak could cause some wood rot in the area of that corner of the slide. The wood rot would weaken the overall structure in that area and cause the crack due to the fiberglass trying to take the flex stress rather than the wood frame. A leak would also explain the delamination.
He also said he's had leak problems elsewhere on the trailer (new roof).
I've seen this kind of problem and result on another forum where the manufacturer was involved in the repairs.
Hope the OP comes back and tells us what they find.
Need to find a cause for both the crack and delamination. A leak would explain both. A leak could cause some wood rot in the area of that corner of the slide. The wood rot would weaken the overall structure in that area and cause the crack due to the fiberglass trying to take the flex stress rather than the wood frame. A leak would also explain the delamination.
He also said he's had leak problems elsewhere on the trailer (new roof).
I've seen this kind of problem and result on another forum where the manufacturer was involved in the repairs.
Hope the OP comes back and tells us what they find.
Thread Starter
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 65,938
Likes: 1,432
From: Millersville, MD
I did NOT say my roof was leaking...I said I had a roof job done BEFORE I had a problem!!!
You will know what is found after the bad area is opened. It will be into NOV before you see that post.
You will know what is found after the bad area is opened. It will be into NOV before you see that post.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 585
Likes: 4
Let's get back to your original question - Is it going to be economical to repair?
I'm not sure what it will take to make the repair, but Arctic Fox had a reputation as one of the better built rigs when yours was made, so in that respect, it may be worth it.
I would make sure that whoever does the repair makes some effort to discover the cause of the problem and corrects that as well, not just paste some bondo over the crack and say "it's fixed." A fix should involve digging under the fiberglass to see what's going on inside the wall. A bit costly at today's shop rates (it could involve removing the slide), but anything less will mean you'll have to do it over again soon.
Best of luck with it.
I'm not sure what it will take to make the repair, but Arctic Fox had a reputation as one of the better built rigs when yours was made, so in that respect, it may be worth it.
I would make sure that whoever does the repair makes some effort to discover the cause of the problem and corrects that as well, not just paste some bondo over the crack and say "it's fixed." A fix should involve digging under the fiberglass to see what's going on inside the wall. A bit costly at today's shop rates (it could involve removing the slide), but anything less will mean you'll have to do it over again soon.
Best of luck with it.
Thread Starter
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 65,938
Likes: 1,432
From: Millersville, MD
I already know they intend to pull the slide and cut back the filon to see where the water came from.... the cracked area or from somewhere inside from a leak that leaked down into the area below the slide where the bubble developed. They know I don't want a half-assed job.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 65,938
Likes: 1,432
From: Millersville, MD
Should know something in the next day or two. Towed it in yesterday for an early morning start for today. Asked them to let me know when they get the filon cut away so we can take photos of the inside for the insurance company. Hopefully we will be able to prove that this was NOT a neglect problem on my part and they will re-open my claim.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 65,938
Likes: 1,432
From: Millersville, MD
WELL!!! They have been VERY busy at this place I took it to. They never got the repair estimate done until Friday. I was away for the holiday and went up today to get the estimate - GULP !!! $8990 !!! Then the disclaimer of "and if we find anything when we get inside it could run higher". Has ANYONE on here ever seen this type a damage on a 5th wheel before and know the cost of repair? Is 9 grand a reasonable repair cost?
I'm beginning to think Steve's "quicky repair" of " You might just try an epoxy glue in the crack and use a little touch up paint. If you take the aluminum piece above the delam free can you get some epoxy behind the delam. If so, you can probably get it sealed back up." may be the right answer. I don't know how many camping years I have ahead of me either. 77 years young now ! His answer just might last me through my days.
I'm beginning to think Steve's "quicky repair" of " You might just try an epoxy glue in the crack and use a little touch up paint. If you take the aluminum piece above the delam free can you get some epoxy behind the delam. If so, you can probably get it sealed back up." may be the right answer. I don't know how many camping years I have ahead of me either. 77 years young now ! His answer just might last me through my days.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,345
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
At that price I would clean it up best I could, epoxy it, sand it, clean it and paint if needed after buffing with fine cut compound.
Then, take the remaining $8900 dollars and do something more fun with it, like camping!
Then, take the remaining $8900 dollars and do something more fun with it, like camping!