e40D extremely lazy and getting hot
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New User
Joined: Feb 2016
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Hi Mark,
It could always be the engine, but that has been totally restored.
It runs like a charm and at one Dyno reading it did 209.9HP at the wheels and 475Nm torque. I'm guessing the engine is fine.
The power to the wheels is so low that, even on sand, full throttle will not create any wheelspin... On top of being so slow, the transmission gets really hot for no apparent reason. So I'm thinking something is working against itself in the transmission.
Tq converter has been changed, the oil has been changed (ford Bronco specialist) a while ago the automatic has been rebuilt. Shifts like a charm. When it's hot it shifts like a dog, but that is to be expected I guess (240F-260F).
The specialist is looking for some test computer to test the transmission. (Different than the extensive code reader he has.)
Any advise would be sorely welcomed!
It could always be the engine, but that has been totally restored.
It runs like a charm and at one Dyno reading it did 209.9HP at the wheels and 475Nm torque. I'm guessing the engine is fine.
The power to the wheels is so low that, even on sand, full throttle will not create any wheelspin... On top of being so slow, the transmission gets really hot for no apparent reason. So I'm thinking something is working against itself in the transmission.
Tq converter has been changed, the oil has been changed (ford Bronco specialist) a while ago the automatic has been rebuilt. Shifts like a charm. When it's hot it shifts like a dog, but that is to be expected I guess (240F-260F).
The specialist is looking for some test computer to test the transmission. (Different than the extensive code reader he has.)
Any advise would be sorely welcomed!
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,725
Likes: 2,651
From: SE Florida
You could run a cooler flow test.
Warm up the trans. It should be about 120-150°F to run this, but the specific temperature is not critical.
Get two containers, each at least a gallon. Disconnect the cooler line that is attached to the rear of the trans. Put a hose over the end of this line and put the other end of the hose in container #1.
Have a helper start the engine. Leave it idling with the shifter in park. In a few seconds the stream coming out of the hose will be steady. Once it is steady move the hose to container #2 FOR EXACTLY 15 SECONDS, then move it back to container #1 and shut off the engine.
If there is at least a quart of fluid in container #2, it passes the flow test. If there is less than a quart, or fluid is spraying (not dribbling) out of the port on the trans where you removed the line, the cooler circuit is restricted or plugged.
Warm up the trans. It should be about 120-150°F to run this, but the specific temperature is not critical.
Get two containers, each at least a gallon. Disconnect the cooler line that is attached to the rear of the trans. Put a hose over the end of this line and put the other end of the hose in container #1.
Have a helper start the engine. Leave it idling with the shifter in park. In a few seconds the stream coming out of the hose will be steady. Once it is steady move the hose to container #2 FOR EXACTLY 15 SECONDS, then move it back to container #1 and shut off the engine.
If there is at least a quart of fluid in container #2, it passes the flow test. If there is less than a quart, or fluid is spraying (not dribbling) out of the port on the trans where you removed the line, the cooler circuit is restricted or plugged.
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Thread Starter
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Good advice! I've also seen someone use an instrument to measure the pressure of the transmission coolant. Are they expensive?
Other question: If the fluid is not flowing, that would explain the overheating, but would it also explain the loss of power?
Other question: If the fluid is not flowing, that would explain the overheating, but would it also explain the loss of power?
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,725
Likes: 2,651
From: SE Florida
Probably not. It may take a transmission teardown to see what's wrong. It could be a failed torque converter. It could be a few other things, too.
Thread Starter
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Hi,
sorry for my late reply I was travelling for business.
The Torque converter has been replaced and the solenoid as well. (Now it clunks into reverse so we're gonna change it for another one.)
The tranny has been from under the car quite a few times. After the rebuild I would say at least 5x just to check and also for the torque converter and the solenoid.
Next week we're gonna put a new (or 2nd hand, I don't know what they can get their hands on) solenoid in. That should take care of the bang in reverse.
I'm so desperate now that I found a guy who has a '95 Bronco standing there and we're gonna change trannies.
At this point this is easier than to keep looking.
I will keep you posted.
sorry for my late reply I was travelling for business.
The Torque converter has been replaced and the solenoid as well. (Now it clunks into reverse so we're gonna change it for another one.)
The tranny has been from under the car quite a few times. After the rebuild I would say at least 5x just to check and also for the torque converter and the solenoid.
Next week we're gonna put a new (or 2nd hand, I don't know what they can get their hands on) solenoid in. That should take care of the bang in reverse.
I'm so desperate now that I found a guy who has a '95 Bronco standing there and we're gonna change trannies.
At this point this is easier than to keep looking.
I will keep you posted.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 13
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Hi guys,
Changed the transmission with one from a Bronco that was working fine.
Car still lacked all the power. Yesterday drove by a garage that had a big Ford
sign and they had a look at the car.
After hitting the (new) MAF sensor a few times, it revved normally (seemed to)
Maybe the cables maybe a faulty new MAF sensor. (Was ordered on Ebay and turned out to be Generic and not Motorcraft.......)
Gonna put a new one in there (they're expensive here, about $ 200,-) and see what happens.
Question for you experts:
My car doesn't have a MAP. The EGR (and EVB) weren't connected to vacuum (checked on youtube and guess I will have to clean the EGR because I'm sure that's never been done in it's 150.000 miles)
Is the MAF different for cars with a EVB in stead of a MAP? There's not a lot out there about EVB's. (Just to check; the EVB is the sensor on top of the EGR, right?)
Thank you, this is an awesome forum.
(And about the codes: It never gave me any codes.)
Cheers,
Jaco
Changed the transmission with one from a Bronco that was working fine.
Car still lacked all the power. Yesterday drove by a garage that had a big Ford
sign and they had a look at the car. After hitting the (new) MAF sensor a few times, it revved normally (seemed to)
Maybe the cables maybe a faulty new MAF sensor. (Was ordered on Ebay and turned out to be Generic and not Motorcraft.......)
Gonna put a new one in there (they're expensive here, about $ 200,-) and see what happens.
Question for you experts:
My car doesn't have a MAP. The EGR (and EVB) weren't connected to vacuum (checked on youtube and guess I will have to clean the EGR because I'm sure that's never been done in it's 150.000 miles)
Is the MAF different for cars with a EVB in stead of a MAP? There's not a lot out there about EVB's. (Just to check; the EVB is the sensor on top of the EGR, right?)
Thank you, this is an awesome forum.
(And about the codes: It never gave me any codes.)
Cheers,
Jaco
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