Proper cab corner replacement?

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Oct 2, 2016 | 09:25 PM

#31

ctubutis

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From: Denver Metro Area, CO

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary Lewis

You see, my wife has the same ailment as Chris - disorder reigns in the dishwasher. So, when I started to load it tonight I had a little re-ordering to do. Not to the point of sorting the spoons, forks, etc as I might as well do that as I put them away once clean, although if I put them in why not sort them as I do it? But, moving other things into their proper places so I can get the breakfast dishes in and save one run of the dishwasher.

My disorder has only been with the silverware, I have never sorted utensils like you guys do (although I think I'm gonna try that just to try and speed up putting things into the drawer).

But I'm pretty good about organizing the other contents of the dishwasher and running it only when full, it's 31 yo and is the original in this house and still works just fine.

I run it about once a week.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary Lewis

As for the labels, they didn't stay on very well. Apparently there's a bit of agitation and heat in there and I found them, or what I think was them, stuck to the heating element at the bottom of the dishwasher.

Do you have an engraving tool or maybe a rotary (Dremel) tool? I'm sure you do... cut some plastic tabs out of the lid to a margarine tub, use some sort of garage-type of tool (not the Tim Taylor type, need to be gentle here) and engrave the label text into the plastic. Use something like zip ties to attach them to the basket and, ba-da-boom, perfectly labeled storage devices.

Might even get fancy and use different-colored plastic to differentiate them, making them easier to identify without needing to try and read.

Sorry for the off-topic, Ar, we get this way sometimes... should have been here years ago when we had quite the discussion on Mel Brooks films.

Oct 2, 2016 | 09:52 PM

#32

WhatsAChevy?

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Joined: Jul 2015

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From: Northeast Ohio USA

Oh geez....busted ! Mini Yellow zip ties for forks, green for knives, blue for spoons and red for cutting knives and general utensils. I feel so vulnerable...I need a moment.

Oct 3, 2016 | 05:56 AM

#33

Ar. Hillbilly

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From: Eureka Springs Arkansas

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beedy

I ask because my truck had holes through the floor on the inside of the cab corners that were big enough that you could stick your arm down through and touch the ground. These were by far the worst part to do of my entire body work on the cab.. ��

I haven't pulled the seat and floor mat yet. I have looked the best I can and didn't see anything on the inside. Once the seat is pulled I can get a closer look and pressure wash the inside so everything is clean and easy insepectd.
The only rust I see is in the flat bottom part of the cab corner. It is about 3/4" tall and 2" long. Who knows how big it'll get when I start sanding/grindin?

Oct 3, 2016 | 08:24 AM

#34

ArdWrknTrk

pedant

Joined: Jan 2008

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From: EXTREME southwest CT

I did rockers and cab corners in my truck last year.
Pulling the bed off with a Kubota tractor so i could replace the tanks and get at the rear of the cab for welding and paint.

I butt welded those corners with a zillion little MIG tacks.

Given where I live, i would probably be better off flanging and bonding because there's no way for moisture to begin any corrosion.

Oct 3, 2016 | 08:37 AM

#35

Gary Lewis

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From: Northeast, OK

I'm certainly no expert, but I would think flinging & bonding would have a much better chance of remaining rust-free than welding.

Oct 3, 2016 | 08:44 AM

#36

4fords

Mountain Pass

Joined: Jul 2000

Posts: 189

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From: Minnesota

How do you flange around the corner of the cab without distorting the shape of the corner?

Oct 3, 2016 | 09:20 AM

#37

ArdWrknTrk

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From: EXTREME southwest CT

It's going to distort.
You will have to shrink the flange to pull it back and have the flange with a proper radius for the joggle (sp?)

Oct 3, 2016 | 10:32 AM

#38

FuzzFace2

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Joined: Nov 2015

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From: Angier, NC

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary Lewis

I'm certainly no expert, but I would think flinging & bonding would have a much better chance of remaining rust-free than welding.

has any one looked into the $$ for the setup to bonding panels?

I have seen it posted not cheap, besides I have a might welder.
Dave - - - -

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Oct 3, 2016 | 10:51 AM

#39

ArdWrknTrk

pedant

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From: EXTREME southwest CT

I have the plural component gun already.
Mine was under $100 and fits the commonly available 3M cartridges.

Oct 3, 2016 | 06:53 PM

#40

Ar. Hillbilly

Thread Starter

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From: Eureka Springs Arkansas

We have 2 different types of caulk gun type guns for double tube epoxies. I know one is a 3M brand and not sure the other. Not saying that the automotive panel bond will work with either but just wondering. They were both quite expensive.