Proper cab corner replacement?
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 487
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From: Eureka Springs Arkansas
Proper cab corner replacement?
Hey guys I've been making plans for the 83 I recently bought. It's a nice straight truck but with slight rust in both cab corners. I'd like to fix that and contain the rust from doing any more damage. I've watched a few videos and it seems they glue/ epoxy them on now days. I've built some for a 1966 and they didn't last long. I bought replacements and over lapped them on a 76 and they turned out ok but I have no idea how long they lasted. I'm not a body man but I have tools and equipment and tend to diy everything. I'd just appreciate some pointers from those with quality experience.
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From: Virginia
These trucks are no different from the others. The big deal I have found is to stop the original problem. And that seems to be the seam at the top of the cab going from the rain gutter over the door to the back window. It will open up from the sealer getting hard and start leaking water inside to the cab corners.
If your rust is just cosmetic(outside piece only) then it's standard replace it. Best way is to cut it out, cut your new cab corner to fit, and weld it in place. The simpler ways you mentioned will do ok so long as water doesn't get trapped inbetween the layers. And it takes more bondo to cover the seam.
If your rust goes in to the inside piece behind the cab corner, then it's more serious and more difficult to repair.
If your rust is just cosmetic(outside piece only) then it's standard replace it. Best way is to cut it out, cut your new cab corner to fit, and weld it in place. The simpler ways you mentioned will do ok so long as water doesn't get trapped inbetween the layers. And it takes more bondo to cover the seam.
If your rust goes in to the inside piece behind the cab corner, then it's more serious and more difficult to repair.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 487
Likes: 75
From: Eureka Springs Arkansas
I've inspected the inside some and it doesn't show any signs of rust. Only one has through rust and it's not much. The other side is just surface rust so far but there is enough that I'm afraid that when I start sanding/grinding it will go through.
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Joined: Jul 2015
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From: Northeast Ohio USA
Wire brush every area that you can reach. Every area. Then POR-15 those same areas and then some, going well beyond the affected area. If you are ok with using filler to feather out the replacement panel , then use 3M Panel Bonding Adhesive to attach the corner. Allow that to cure for a minimum of 48 hours. Dress as necessary to achieve results.
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Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
I welded mine in. I used weld thru zinc primer on panels that over lapped. the white in the pictures.
After welded and cleaned up I hit all seams top & bottom with 2 coats seam sealer. First was from a tube and calk gun and 2nd coat was brush on.
After that set up for a day or 2 I then did 2 coats of truck bed liner both top & bottom.
I had to replace the lower inside and outside of the left door.
I have seam sealed the outer panel on the inside, before the inside panel was installed, so water cant get between the seam.
I will treat this door and the other with rust converter poured in and then tilt the door so it gets between outer & inner panels to kill any rust at the over lap pinch seams.
This truck body wise should out live me!
Dave ----
After welded and cleaned up I hit all seams top & bottom with 2 coats seam sealer. First was from a tube and calk gun and 2nd coat was brush on.
After that set up for a day or 2 I then did 2 coats of truck bed liner both top & bottom.
I had to replace the lower inside and outside of the left door.
I have seam sealed the outer panel on the inside, before the inside panel was installed, so water cant get between the seam.
I will treat this door and the other with rust converter poured in and then tilt the door so it gets between outer & inner panels to kill any rust at the over lap pinch seams.
This truck body wise should out live me!
Dave ----
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From: Northeast Ohio USA
Dave....You, as well as Gary, are restoring (beyond restoration) your respective trucks beyond the very definition of "body off frame". Note that I didn't say "frame off" restoration. With all due respect, some restorations...... are not so extensive.
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Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
If this was a true restore I would have butt welded the panels so you could not tell the floors, cab corners were ever replaced.
I did do that for the fire wall for the non-AC to AC fire wall.
As for how deep I got into this it started just to get it on the road then my OCD flared up LOL!
Now that it is getting cooler I should be able to get back on it.
Dave ----
I did do that for the fire wall for the non-AC to AC fire wall.
As for how deep I got into this it started just to get it on the road then my OCD flared up LOL!
Now that it is getting cooler I should be able to get back on it.
Dave ----
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FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
Not to get off subject you should see the project I put on the back burner to do this truck 70 Javelin Mark Donohue
How about removing the hood skin from the frame, building a "pool" to do rust removal by electrolysis Rust removal by electrolysis
Also did 3 fenders in the pool all in the name to stop rust.
Also used other tricks to treat & stop rust.
Dave ----
How about removing the hood skin from the frame, building a "pool" to do rust removal by electrolysis Rust removal by electrolysis
Also did 3 fenders in the pool all in the name to stop rust.
Also used other tricks to treat & stop rust.
Dave ----
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
You guys - Don & Dave - should both come to one of Gary's Oklahoma Chapter GTGs at his house in Podunk (northern suburb of Tulsa) you guys would all get along marvelously well as Gary shares your disorder.
I noticed this when I was there a few weeks ago... I guess his wife tolerates this... somehow...
The way he loads the dishwasher... specifically, the silverware baskets... all forks are together in one basket... same goes for the knives & spoons, each have their own container... I guess the other baskets are for the remainder of the utensils ("other").
But I'm surprised they weren't labeled somehow, I'd expect him to make tags similar to those on the truck axles, permanently affixed to the baskets so there could be no question as to what utensil goes into each basket.
I kid you not....
Sorry, Gary, this has been haunting me ever since I discovered it
I noticed this when I was there a few weeks ago... I guess his wife tolerates this... somehow...
The way he loads the dishwasher... specifically, the silverware baskets... all forks are together in one basket... same goes for the knives & spoons, each have their own container... I guess the other baskets are for the remainder of the utensils ("other").
But I'm surprised they weren't labeled somehow, I'd expect him to make tags similar to those on the truck axles, permanently affixed to the baskets so there could be no question as to what utensil goes into each basket.
I kid you not....
Sorry, Gary, this has been haunting me ever since I discovered it
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Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Northern Indiana USA
I'm at the stage, where the iron in my blood turns to lead in my ****! That, and all the rain these days, O/T at work, can't seem to get much done..
Back on subject, my 84 needs the cab corners replaced. Looks like pulling the seat , and carpet up is going to be necessary.
Back on subject, my 84 needs the cab corners replaced. Looks like pulling the seat , and carpet up is going to be necessary.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 487
Likes: 75
From: Eureka Springs Arkansas
I'm at the stage, where the iron in my blood turns to lead in my ****! That, and all the rain these days, O/T at work, can't seem to get much done..
Back on subject, my 84 needs the cab corners replaced. Looks like pulling the seat , and carpet up is going to be necessary.
Back on subject, my 84 needs the cab corners replaced. Looks like pulling the seat , and carpet up is going to be necessary.