I have never used or heard of brush on seam sealer. I'd like more info. I appreciate the reply and pics. Nice work. Just so I understand correct, did you bedliner underneath the floor?

 

One more question. How do I seal the gutter and cab roof seam? Also it has a 80's cell phone antenna (I assume) in the passenger side rear corner of the roof. I haven't removed it yet due to no repair plan. I think these two areas may let water in and I want it stopped.

 

I pulled the seat or what was left of it because I was going to use the one from the parts truck but also needed to pull up the rubber mat to fix the rocker rust.


Once the mat was up is when I found the floors had pin holes that I could not see from under the truck. Maybe if the mat was not down I would have seen light from under. Then again I would have seen it from the top side!


I have not used it on this project (yet) but I used Eastwood Black Rust Encapsulator - Paint Over Rust - Treatment - Rust Solutions - Paints & Coatings bought a gal. and brushed it on.
I also have Eastwood Internal Frame Coating 14oz Aerosol to use inside the "A" pillars and roof edge of my other project.
Could use this on the truck between the roof panels, back walls, "A" pillars and any place else I may find I can use it.


I used this OSPHO Rust Converter/Metal Primer | West Marine in my other project doors and will use in in this truck doors where you have the door skins folded over the door frame. Rust forums there and you cant really get to it so I will pour this in and tilt the doors so it gets to all folds.


On the truck the new lower inner panel did not have the water drain holes so I had to make new ones. Hard to see in this picture but there is one at each end and this one in the center.

Make sure yours a clear to Drain.


That is everything I use to fight rust on my projects.
Dave ----

 

The first used a caulk gun (SEM brand) to apply and it forced into over lap seams. Once it set up I wanted to make sure it was sealed and thought best to use the brush on sealer, Evercoat brand.


As for the gutter/roof seal I would use a good name brand seam sealer. I do like how easy the Evercoat seam seal went on and when dry will stay flexible. Not that the SEM gun type will not be flexible and is a name brand just did not look that close once it was on the truck.

On the bed coating (not liner) Truck Bed Coating - Gallon Kit, Quart & Aerosol | Dupli-Color is what I used and yes top and bottom. I removed the cab from the frame so was not too hard to do both the seam sealing and coating.

This also made it easy to take everything off the frame to clean & paint everything before it went back on.

What I have done is not for every one for room, time needed and the big one skill set.


With out looking at that that cell ant. and not knowing your skill set and tools you have it is hard to say how to go about removing it so may be best to just make sure it is sealed and keep it in place.
Dave ----

 

I restore tractors for a hobby. Down to the last nut and bolt. I have a nice size shop and full of tools. I have a lot of welding experience and have several welders. I never learned to tig. I just like to learn from those that have been there before me. I appreciate all the time you have given me on this subject. I bought the truck to drive to work as is. I'm the type that can't leave anything alone. On tractors it's no problem to get every part removed for repair unlike a truck cab where lots of things have to be cut apart to work on them. I raced stock cars from 1985 - 2005 and got a lot mechanical and body work experience. None of my experience is professional and I've got plenty to learn. This place amazes me with all the experience shared to strangers like my self. I really do appreciate this and hope to be of help to others some day.

 

I thought it was just me who loaded the dishwasher that way...that way when you remove them, they go into the respective separators in the drawer with zero room for mistakes. And never, ever store wooden spoons with metal ones. I installed racks in one cabinet so the pot lids could be stored vertically, large to small, left to right. And don't get me started on label facing in the pantry.

 

I came across 3X Chemistry products which seem to have positive reviews from multiple sites and ordered a quart from Amazon @ about $45.00, but i have not used it yet.

3X Chemistry

 

That looks like the f350 dump I fixed up so it would pass inspection. After I cut the bad stuff out I could walk into the cab, standing on the ground, and shut the door behind me.

I highly recommend doing that work with the door still installed if possible. And taking all those panels and screwing them in first, checking the fit of the door and make sure it closes ok, and then start welding. Lucky for us the top of the cab and the firewall are pretty strong, so it helps keep it in the ballpark.

 

You are 100% right I did think of installing the doors to make sure the opening stayed square.
I felt it did not move (much) to worry about it and if it is off I will grind or weld the edges of the doors.


Also if you look close the cab is sitting on 2 plastic horses and felt with the doors installed the cab would be sitting on the floor and not in a good way!


Did bring up a good point.
Dave ----

 

That's a good thought, I may have to try this method as that sounds pretty convenient.

Myself, forks & spoons (two sizes of each) are stored neatly stacked on top of each other in these little Rubbermaid bins; butter (non-sharp) knives are kept separated from the steak knives, with a few bins for miscellaneous stuff. But everything's a free-for-all in the dishwasher, whatever fits best at the time of loading is what I use.

But I had to laugh when I saw that at @Gary Lewis' house and I'm still wondering where the labels for the dishwasher baskets are.

I just tagged him (which means he'll get an e-mail inviting him here) since I'm pretty sure he's ignoring this thread and isn't even aware that we're talking about this seemingly-widespread disorder shared amongst people here... maybe you guys should create a self-help group and house it in a thread here.

 

Sorry guys, I'd have been to the party earlier but I was busy unloading/loading the dishwasher. Yes, actually I was. You see, my wife has the same ailment as Chris - disorder reigns in the dishwasher. So, when I started to load it tonight I had a little re-ordering to do. Not to the point of sorting the spoons, forks, etc as I might as well do that as I put them away once clean, although if I put them in why not sort them as I do it? But, moving other things into their proper places so I can get the breakfast dishes in and save one run of the dishwasher.

As for the labels, they didn't stay on very well. Apparently there's a bit of agitation and heat in there and I found them, or what I think was them, stuck to the heating element at the bottom of the dishwasher.

Seriously, why not figure out how best to load the dishwasher? I can get half-again as much in as my wife does (not "can", but "does"), and that means we run it a lot less frequently.

 

Out of curiosity AR. Is the rust on the vertical part of the cab corners or the floor on the inside of the cab?

When I did mine, I cut out all of the rust right back to about an inch from the edge of the pre-made cab corner with a zip wheel. Then I used a grinder and a flapper wheel to clear everything down to bare metal. Then I lined up my pre-made cab and used vise grips to hold it in place. (I trimmed the door posts of my cab corners down a little so that when I welded, I was welding down a seam. On the picture with bondo, it's the vertical seam with bondo.)

To me at this point, I welded a continuous seam around the entire cab corner instead of rivet welding?? (Not sure the correct term) to get a 100% seal and avoid using seam sealer. I chose this because I live in Maine and have used the same method Fuzz used and didn't have very good of luck. Only lasted a couple years for me.

Then it's just a matter of using body filler and lots of sanding, body fill again and sand. Took me a while but I thought it turned out well. (I also did the floors and rockers with this method.) Here are some picks of mine. (I can't find an unpainted pass side)

 

I'll try my hand at posting pics tomorrow. It will show how much rust I have and give a good plan for the repair. So much for me driving it as is. I want to paint it now.

 

I ask because my truck had holes through the floor on the inside of the cab corners that were big enough that you could stick your arm down through and touch the ground. These were by far the worst part to do of my entire body work on the cab.. ��

 

We are so jacking this thread Small plates on either side of the utensil basket and large plates to the rear. Plastics on the top rack.