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you do realize you are arguing the same thing? Both of you are showing data showing the fuse is in the fuse block (comment 1) not in-line (which would be probably 5 - in-harness) or 3 (cartridge in feed wire.) Just realized I was at the end of page 1 of the thread...oops.
I/P is Instrument Panel.
The juice to your dash lights goes approximately through the fuse block to the dimmer and to the dash circuit - check each connection to verify. Also check the contacts on the bulb holders and where they contact the printed circuit mylar, clean all of them. If you have good voltage to the mylar but are dead at the bulbs, you may need a new printed circuit (which is about $65) Unless you are married to blue dash lighting, you can remove the blue filters and that alone will make your lights MUCH brighter.
So...i feel like a complete moron. I took my rheostat deal out tore it apart and put it back together, and realized that my fuse had blown. I already changed it before hand. But i just found out that it blows every time i try to send power through it.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
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