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Stock '83 460 Compression Test

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Old Sep 17, 2016 | 11:07 AM
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Stock '83 460 Compression Test

Hello all. I've been a lurker around here for quite a while, but it this is my first post.

I just picked up a 1983 motorhome that runs on the E350 chassis with a 460. It's got 138,000 on the clock but seems to still be running strong. I'm planning a long trip next summer with the family and want to get everything ready. All in all the motorhome is in excellent used condition. When purchasing I was completely prepared to refresh the engine if needed

My first step was to do a compression test to get some empirical data on the health of the engine. The test showed a high of 150 pounds and a low of 120. In between are a 130, several 135s, a 140 and a 145. From my research it look like as long as the lowest is at least 75% of the highest it passes. These results fall in that range but just barely.

So, in the opinion of this deep dark corner of the internet, would you call this good and trust it for an 8000 mile trip? Or, call it questionable enough to warrant a rebuild?
 
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Old Sep 17, 2016 | 11:32 AM
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Welcome to FTE btw

Was the compression test performed engine cold or hot? Throttle blocked wide open? Sometimes folks don't always follow accurate procedure.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2016 | 11:52 AM
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Hot, I warmed it up in my driveway til the the temp gauge read 190. I used a bungee cord to pull the throttle wide open and wedged a screwdriver into the choke plate to make sure it did not close.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2016 | 12:00 PM
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Right, OK... It's one thing if it has good numbers, those aren't terrible but.. A vacuum gauge connected to manifold would provide the rest of the story.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2016 | 12:39 PM
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Ok, Not sure exactly what to test for on vacuum. I just went and put the gauge on. Connected it to the back of the manifold., I disconnected a line that goes to the transmission (I think) to connect the gauge. At idle, 600 RPM, it fluctuates between 16-17HG. At 800 RPM it fluctuates between 20 and 21HG. At 1000 RPM it's solid at 22 HG.

Does this give the info you would need? Is there some other test that I should run?

BTW. Thank you for your help. It's really appreciated.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2016 | 01:31 PM
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Vacuum gauge test wants a source of constant vacuum, at factory idle. A high RPM will camouflage the result. 600 or less RPM is OK. At Sea level a healthy stock engine in good condition should pull 18" to 20" Hg steady needle. Vacuum gauge test is a very useful tool in engine diagnostics and tuning.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2016 | 04:34 PM
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Ok, so the vacuum is low and inconsistent. Is this because some of the cylinders are sealing better than others?

What's your opinion of this engine running strong for another 10k miles? If a rebuild is necessary I'd rather do it my self. I don't want to get caught at the mercy of a random mechanic that I don't know.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2016 | 04:54 PM
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Low vacuum indication isn't necessarily rings. Late ignition timing is one possibility, maybe an intake manifold leak. What altitude do you live at? It's also important to see a steady reading. If it fluctuates or is erratic, could be worn valve guides or a bad valve for example. Worn rings are tested by blipping the throttle hard, the needle should drop to no more than around 5 or so, and then rebound to + 25 say, something like that. There are a bunch more tests and indications that can be gleaned from a gauge than just that chart, lots of websites and info about how to use one. Learn as much as you can using the resources available.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2016 | 08:47 PM
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For that year motor your numbers are ok. It is a retarded valve timing motor. It will not show as good a numbers as a straight up timed motor. It is also a motor home and probably doesn't get driven a lot that can effect the numbers.
 
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