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Thought there would be more folks with different header stories, as there is quite a few available.
I have the FF427 coated headers myself and they are nice headers. As for me, there is no way to get a stock starter in or out with the FF427, without loosening or removing the header first. I went with a powermaster mini strater, but that is another story as well as it needs some mods to get the gear to fully engage the flexplate (doesn't have enough throw out like many aftermarket starters).
I got a set of Stan's Headers ceramic coated headers for my 68 F250 4X4 with a FE. They are a Tri-Y design full length header with 3/8 flanges and 14G tube walls that is made to clear all the supports in the "Hi-Boy" frame. The 4-2-1 Primary to Collector set up will work nice on the lower RPM range. When the motor goes in I'll shoot some pictures as I have the RobbMc starter as well.
Not sure what the "two-piece" refers to. Those are the ones I had and they work on a 2WD or 4WD, but they don't match to a CJ exhaust port (too small), and on mine the quality was poor, the sealing surfaces were not all squared up, and the flanges quite thin so they deformed at pretty low torque settings.
As far as I was concerned they were one piece but I don't think I get what you mean.
Originally Posted by yellow truck
Of course they are still connected at the collector, so I still don't see how they come apart. I certainly didn't see a way when I was doing mine.
Take a detailed look at the primaries for cylinders 1 and 2 in the previously posted pic. They merge and then flow into a single tube into the collector. On the way to the collector, there is an ID/OD slip fit. Zoom in... you'll see it.
CSTOYER.
Very interested to see those pictures.
I have heard good things about Stan's headers. At $600 - $750, quality should not be an issue.
I assume you went with 244Y-L-14?
Let me know what your thoughts are on the 14 gauge tubes over the 16 gauge tubes.
For my F100, it looks like I would be using either the 222Y or the 222Y-14.
CSTOYER.
Very interested to see those pictures.
I have heard good things about Stan's headers. At $600 - $750, quality should not be an issue.
I assume you went with 244Y-L-14?
Let me know what your thoughts are on the 14 gauge tubes over the 16 gauge tubes.
For my F100, it looks like I would be using either the 222Y or the 222Y-14.
Trever
Stans' web page has some install pictures of the 244Y-L and yes that's what I bought. I'm still not sure about being able to pull the starter with the headers on but I'm putting my faith in the ceramic coating to keep the temps down and not cook it. They are also a ball and socket connection at the collector to exhaust so alignment should be simple and lower change of leaks.
Take a detailed look at the primaries for cylinders 1 and 2 in the previously posted pic. They merge and then flow into a single tube into the collector. On the way to the collector, there is an ID/OD slip fit. Zoom in... you'll see it.
Not sure what the phone comment relates to, but I'm pretty sure those are the headers I have and I never noticed the slip fit joint. I had them installed back when I had the body restoration done, so I didn't buy them or handle them, but since then I've had them off the truck twice and never noticed it.
Each time I had the engine out, so taking them apart wasn't a requirement, but I sure will try to break them apart to remove the passenger side this time. I have doubts about how easily they will come apart as they have been on the truck 10 years.
I am interested in "Stans Headers" and FPA, and I'm wondering if they are one and the same or related. I considered FPA as they claimed to have a CJ style flange in a header that would work in a 4WD truck. I wrote to them to confirm the details and got a reply from Stan. The pictures of the products look very similar.
Stan's Headers are in Auburn WA, and FPA are in Puyallup, just 18 miles apart. I was just over there and had I realized how close they were I might have stopped in.
Update on the Sanderson headers. This is only relevant to CJ style FE heads, but the tubes are bent so tight to the flange that on my set three of the bolt holes can't be used (two on one, one on the other), and in a couple of them even if we used studs we couldn't get a nut under the bend.
Not sure what the phone comment relates to, but I'm pretty sure those are the headers I have and I never noticed the slip fit joint. I had them installed back when I had the body restoration done, so I didn't buy them or handle them, but since then I've had them off the truck twice and never noticed it.
Each time I had the engine out, so taking them apart wasn't a requirement, but I sure will try to break them apart to remove the passenger side this time. I have doubts about how easily they will come apart as they have been on the truck 10 years.
I am interested in "Stans Headers" and FPA, and I'm wondering if they are one and the same or related. I considered FPA as they claimed to have a CJ style flange in a header that would work in a 4WD truck. I wrote to them to confirm the details and got a reply from Stan. The pictures of the products look very similar.
Stan's Headers are in Auburn WA, and FPA are in Puyallup, just 18 miles apart. I was just over there and had I realized how close they were I might have stopped in.
YellowTruck
Here is a picture of a Stans Header flange and yes they have the CJ pattern. Also, FPA is a reseller and installer for Stans so they are the same.
I did like the look of the FPA/Stan's headers. BTW Sanderson got back to me and acknowledged there was a mistake with my headers and want to swap them out.
Well, as per a previous comment, they stand behind their product. The owner of Sanderson called me today and they are shipping a new set. Seems someone forgot that CJ style headers need a dimple.
Still a bit of an annoyance as I have to delay getting the tuning underway, and WINTER is coming.
Well, as per a previous comment, they stand behind their product. The owner of Sanderson called me today and they are shipping a new set. Seems someone forgot that CJ style headers need a dimple.
Still a bit of an annoyance as I have to delay getting the tuning underway, and WINTER is coming.
Say what? I have the same Sanderson CJ's and have the same bolt issue. Are you saying Sanderson sent me the wrong items or possibly built them wrong? I was 'SPECIFIC' in ordering the CJ head pattern.
I'll be using the Stage 8's and the fricking cost just stinks..
May That's what, I hate about after market stuff their always something that don't fit right for some reason. And we can see the reason your won't bolt up.
Orich
May That's what, I hate about after market stuff their always something that don't fit right for some reason. And we can see the reason your won't bolt up.
Orich
Well that confused me...
Was there any whiskey involved in the response? Not being critical because I've been there/done that and never fault anyone for the same things I've done.
I sent them the same pictures and here is there response:
Thank you for providing these images.
Sometimes, making a very tight-fitting header creates new problems, as is the case with this. Unfortunately, it does look like our mistake, and that the tubes were not dimpled in these locations. Donna (the owner) will be calling you shortly to discuss getting those back.
Did you tell them of your problems? Donna did call, apologized, said someone had made a mistake and forgot the dimples, and they would ship me new ones plus a return shipping label.
