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Last week there was a thread about how the Sanderson FF427 headers will not fit with the RobbMc Mini Starter because of the length of the starter.
This got me thinking...
I want to hear everyone's success or issues with different header manufactures/models! (Did it fit? Did you have to notch the frame? etc.)
I picked up a set of Hooker super comps on the junk table at Summit Racing for $50. I test fitted them, fit fine in my '69 with 428.. Just got them back from coating so I'll be getting them back in maybe this weekend? I am replacing a set of Blackjack Alumacoats that have been on the truck since 1988.
I only run a stock starter, I'd don't care for those "mini" starters. I've heard more horror stories about them. Even in my 13:1 462 FE in the race car, I run a stock, Autozone starter. Never a problem. Starts it every time.
I only bought Sanderson headers for one reason, that you don't need gaskets a thick header exh. flange. Plus they were not long tube headers like what get in the way of sway bars an so on.
I also had run Black jack long tubes headers for 20yrs. until my sway bar finally punched a hole in one of the tubes runners.
Those Black Jack headers were made when there wasn't many cheap mini starter on the market for like Fe motors. So a few Co.s made designed for street machines where you could use the stock starter an remove them with out dropping the header pipes.
I only replaced the header gaskets two times in the 20 yrs of running them. I only used a little RTV on both side of the header gaskets.
I always checked the header bolts for tightness about every other oil change. I never let them work loose to start too burn out the gaskets like many guys have done.
And only waited until they ran them way to long then try to tighten them up when gaskets have burned out then it's to late.
And if a vehicle is run to long with leaking headers the hot exh. will start burning out the header mating surface itself, where as the only fix is having the heads exh. side milled if not it's not to deep.
Orich
Well, I have a set of what I think were cheap Flowtech headers (bought them 10 years ago so don't remember the brand but they were not high end). They wrap around the engine mount on the passenger side.
When I built a new 445 for my truck I went with BBM heads - Cobra Jet style exhaust ports didn't match up with the Flowtech headers so I had to find something that would work. I did notice that the sealing surfaces on the Flowtechs were poorly aligned and in fact one of them was tilted at about 10 degrees off square. To be clear, the only reason I went with the Sanderson headers is the CJ ports combined with fit to an F100.
I got my new Sanderson FF427 headers - ordered uncoated in case I have to do any banging on them - and was underwhelmed by the finish quality:
I won't have a chance to try and fit them until next week, I'll be able to give better feedback then. I did get in there and grind off the lumps. I run a stock starter so hopping fit isn't an issue.
I had to do a little flat filing on the Hookers to make sure they would seal properly, but they didn't look anything like that !!!
I enjoyed that header bashing episode(watched it a month or so ago). I always laugh at how **** some people get about headers, tubing side, exhaust size, etc. Unless you have it on a dyno I'm betting you would never feel the difference, ever, while driving the vehicle.
My typical statement is "Warren Johnson might see a difference, me, likely not". Meaning, someone in the Pro stock ranks, that is looking at every .01 HP would go the extra mile. A guy driving his truck to a show would not need to worry.
My drag car has the bottom tubes mashed 1/2 shut from wheel stands. The car has not slowed down a bit. I'm not happy about my freshly coated headers, but oh well.
Seems like there was someone on a thread maybe a year ago that had some problem with the FF427 headers. I want to say he contacted Sanderson. Their fix was for him to use one side of the FF390 and one side FF427. Sanderson ponied up and swapped out one side for him as I recall. Maybe call their tech line.
Seems like there was someone on a thread maybe a year ago that had some problem with the FF427 headers. I want to say he contacted Sanderson. Their fix was for him to use one side of the FF390 and one side FF427. Sanderson ponied up and swapped out one side for him as I recall. Maybe call their tech line.
Seems like there was someone on a thread maybe a year ago that had some problem with the FF427 headers. I want to say he contacted Sanderson. Their fix was for him to use one side of the FF390 and one side FF427. Sanderson ponied up and swapped out one side for him as I recall. Maybe call their tech line.
Aw 2x Jeff yes that was for the steering box size issues as ,I remember that post myself.
Orich
I did write to Sanderson and here is their reply. The tech support person's comments are correct, and as per the video on banging the crap out of them, I knew this. I just can't abide the idea that stuff was inside my headers. I suggested if they intend to provide a nasty finish they should put a picture on their site!
Let me attempt to address your concerns.
First, that is the plain steel version of the header. The plain steel headers often require additional prep before a finish is applied. This helps keep costs down, and allows those customers who desire to put in a bit of extra individual effort that opportunity. The coated header receives considerably more prep. However, the exhaust gases don't care what the finish consists of. Testing a header with weld splatter versus one completely polished will show no difference on an engine dyno. In fact, the exhaust flow also does not care whether or not the ports match exactly until the airflow reaches speeds consistently above 6,500 RPM.
If a customer is looking for every last bit of horsepower for their application, they would not be using this style of header --- one for street rods and classic applications. The average RPM and type of use for a street rod, or any application spending most of its time below 4,500 RPM does not have the same requirements of an application that spends a majority of its time at WOT (wide open throttle).
These concerns are sometimes difficult to explain to some customers due to what magazines and reviewers---who often have little to no real experience----print, claiming otherwise. What is a concern is proper flange sealing, welds that hold and don't leak, improvements over factory exhaust manifolds, thermal control, and having a header that fits a vehicle's chassis without having to take a hammer to it. Although I understand that some individuals feel that the weld splatter is a problem---it's actually not.
I wrote them back in 05 or 06 and asked if the ford 360/390 oem starter could be removed with the fe427 headers installed.
I never got an answer back.
Orich
I suppose anybody who is having a question or trouble with the FF427 set. I remembered someone had a problem but not what it was. And I remembered the solution. Now that I read Orich's post I know it was the steering box not the starter.
Edit. A while back a gentleman named Kyle Jewell posted about these headers. They are for a 4X4 but my point is the right side is a 2 piece unit to aid in installation. I would assume there is a 4X2 part number also. I don't think he had any trouble with his starter either.
#12 vbrep_register("15553701") 08-06-2015, 07:18 PM Kyle Jewell vbmenu_register("postmenu_15553701", true);
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Fits all FE engines. Ordered mine off tdotperformance.ca but thats canadian. Can also be ordered from many sites in the states. Love the sound and look of these headers.
Not sure what the "two-piece" refers to. Those are the ones I had and they work on a 2WD or 4WD, but they don't match to a CJ exhaust port (too small), and on mine the quality was poor, the sealing surfaces were not all squared up, and the flanges quite thin so they deformed at pretty low torque settings.
As far as I was concerned they were one piece but I don't think I get what you mean.
Not sure what the "two-piece" refers to. Those are the ones I had and they work on a 2WD or 4WD, but they don't match to a CJ exhaust port (too small), and on mine the quality was poor, the sealing surfaces were not all squared up, and the flanges quite thin so they deformed at pretty low torque settings.
As far as I was concerned they were one piece but I don't think I get what you mean.
The right side header comes apart once a person slices the flange at a marked spot according to Kyle. This way you can easily mount that header around the motor mount and stand. A person doesn't have to lift the motor and remove the motor mount and/or the stand to mount this header. Which is standard practice on other long tubes for a FE.
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08-06-2015, 07:18 PM 
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