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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

disc brake conversion

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Old Sep 9, 2016 | 01:55 AM
  #1  
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disc brake conversion

Hello fellas. new guy here, sold my 55 f100 couple of years ago, just picked up a 52 f2 and loving it! bought a disc brake conversion kit and power master from CPP. hopefully all goes well and if not, hopefully some of you fellas will be willing to help out.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2016 | 07:58 AM
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If you haven't done a Front Disk brake conversion before you might have to drill and tap new upper grease fitting positions. If you don't know the status of your king pins it might be worth the time and $$$ to have them replaced while converting to disk brakes. Just my 2 cents worth. Cant speak to the Power master as all my stuff is 53-56 F100s.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2016 | 04:45 PM
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Good answer, thanks, already ordered king pin kit and dropped tie rod ends and tube being that I took out three leaves out of springs. Concerned with tube hitting oil pan. Changing out spindles for F1 units anyways due to F2 units are slightly bigger at the taper from what I'm told by CPP, outer bearing bottoms out before contact with race.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 01:28 PM
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I did not have any problems with having to drill for new fittings like BJ did. And F1 & F2 spindles and axles are the same 48-52.

I used a Speedway kit which I think is the same or very similar to the CPP kit.

The only problem that I had was because the F2 crossmember is significantly different from the F1 nobody makes a booster/dual chamber master cylinder kit kit specifcally for the F2. So I modified a CPP F1 kit slightly and it fit really well. This link shows you how: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-48-52-f2.html. Just make sure that you order the disk/drum version if you have drum brakes in the rear so that you get the right proportioning valve. This setup also lets you retain the stock brake pedal sled. PM me if you have any questions.




 
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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 02:53 PM
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thanks! great pics! I will watch for those fit issues you mentioned with master cyl install. I did try installing disc brake on current spindles and outer bearing inner race bottomed on taper, thought Chinese bearings might be the problem, noticed number on bearing was same as timkin number for 70s to 90s Harley wheel bearings which I had in stock (I work on Harleys for a living ) tried installing with, same results. called CPP and was told spindles need to be from F1, I was under impression that F1 F2 had same also. I know they interchange for stock application but with conversion, maybe a problem. bought a set of spindles off of a F1, gonna try them on for size before putting on to axle. I'm thinking of turning down the taper a little on the lathe but worry it will weaken and break under load. don't want to ruin a good set of spindles knowing they're not remanufactured either. Are the tapers thicker on F2 spindles for heavier load capacity I wonder? going to mike them and compare when it gets here. By the way, saw lots of pics of your stuff, nice work! great advices!
 
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 11:00 AM
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This is the disc brake kit that I ordered from Speedway and it fit just fine. 1948-1956 Ford Half Ton Deluxe Disc Brake Kit, 5 x 5-1/2 Inch - Free Shipping @ Speedway Motors

I checked the parts manual and note that the F1, F2 & F3s use the same spindle on both sides. Maybe CPP gave you the wrong parts?

The other option is that you have a different axle in your truck. Note that the parts manual gives you the spindle measurements too. I would check yours first. If it is correct I would get back with CPP.

 
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 12:53 PM
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thanks for great info Pete, measured spindles, got .75 on small end instead of .74 as per your printout. All else measured up correct. I'm going to measure other ones when they get here and pre fit rotors to check before swapping them onto axle. I'll keep updated. Maybe someone modified these off of something else to fit at one time? some cleaver people out there...
 
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 01:06 PM
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The only real problem that I had with the rotors (F100 rotors according to Speedway) was when I went to install the inner grease seal. I ruined one trying to get it in. Then I looked at the other rotor and the edge was chamfered and the seal went right in. So I chamfered the edge on the other one with a die grinder and the seal went right in also.


Unchamfered


Chamfered


So I would check your new rotors. Easy enough to fix.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 01:22 PM
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rotors are good, thanks, actually called CPP yesterday to ask if they can provide me with some measurements for their bearing spacer in case wrong ones were packed or manufactured wrong. the guy keeps telling me that it only fits F1s because F2 is heavier, bigger part etc. etc. so I asked him to try to get me info anyway. still waiting... Meanwhile, axle looks to be right, comparing to pics of yours and others. thanks again for all your help
 
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 01:35 PM
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CPP is terrible. They only know what their script tells them and they refuse to think for themselves. I ran into the same problem with the booster/master cylinder assembly. I finally just ordered it online. Speedway is somewhat better. Your second set of spindles should tell you the true story.

I stay away from CPP if I can avoid it.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 01:41 PM
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Did you notice the price difference between Speedway and CPP. $280 vs $649 !!! That is a steep price to pay for ventilated rotors.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 02:04 PM
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actually got it for 380 so it wasn't too bad. I did get kingpin kit and dropped tie rod assy from speedway though, guy on the phone was very helpful and non condescending, I'll be dealing with them more. Kit I got is for 5 on 4.75 because I already had a set of centerlines from my hot rod from 25 years ago I wanted to use, think speedway only had 5 on 5.5. Another lesson learned
 
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 02:09 PM
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Don't be upset with me for using GM wheel pattern... money's tight, gotta use what I got.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2016 | 12:18 AM
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Spindles came in and worked out better. the tang on the outer bearing washer bottoms out in slot. bent it slightly and all was good. Installed all brake parts, lines, residual valves. took a few to get one bleeder and one line to seal though,, not my own flares but a production one on caliper!
Test drove the truck.
It stops without effort!!
 
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