Hey all new problem.

***************2002 F250 w/ 7.3 4x4 supercrew************


**************NO PROGRAMMER BOX************


The backstory is in my last post.

Below is what was wrong and what was corrected.

"Just got word that the Radiator cracked out from the bottom. Apparently the Thermostat was OEM and went bad causing too much pressure and she let go... Good ole 7.3 had sensors in place to shut down in case of a Catastrophic failure...

This morning she cranked up fine at the shop after she cooled down.

The issue was the Stock radiator let go, probable due to age and lack of maintenance from the previous owner.

Any way, I ordered another Badass Radiator on Friday from Mishimoto, it arrived today and is almost 1/2 in. thicker than stock.

I got this one. https://freedomdieselperformance.com...dqqBoCjc7w_wcB

all hoses are being replaces along with a new thermostat and gasket.

The water pump had just a little play and was stock so while in there, it is being replaced as well.

The drive belt looked a little worn so its being replaced.

I think the next replacements are gonna be the CPS and some other sensors...

Hope this helps some others with a similar issue.


To all that replied and provided advice, THANK YOU VERY MUCH."

//////////////////////////////////////////

Fast forward to today

Since my last fix, the truck has sat till 3 days ago. I topped it off with fuel and drov it 48 miles to an equipment rental place where I rented a 7500lb mini excavator and trailer. She pulled it without hesitation.

Yesterday I made the same trip to return equipment and trailer, again no issues.

Today I drive 11 miles to my DADs house with no issue but on the return trip home all of a sudden she DIED.

The Check GAGE and Battery light came on, I lost power and pulled her to the shoulder. I recycled the key and it will crank but will not start. No smoke from tailpipe.

it sat for about 45 minutes, my dad came, we checked the battery voltage and both read 12.65v ea.

I turned the key over and she started so we headed home...got 2 miles down the road and the AMBER engine light illuminated along with the Check gage and battery lights all came on and she died again so i pull her to the shoulder and this time wait for the tow truck.

I do not have any kind of scan tool, recommendations would be helpful.

I am now home and its been over an hour and she only cranks but will not start.


Thanks for any advice.

Bombguy

 

First- what year and model? What is the battery voltage and oil level also the fuel level. Is the IPR tin nut in place? Are all the fuses ok? I forget which, but there are a couple that if blown won't allow it to start. Does the tach move?

After that, you may need to start reading codes or PIDs. There are many inexpensive iPhone or android apps and OBD readers that can get you started- probably anywhere from $20 - $100.

 

02 F250 w/ 7.3 Supercrew 4x4

batt voltage is 12.65v ea.

where is this IPR tin nut?

The oil level is Full

When I crank it now, the RPM gage does NOT move
When I crank it I now see the Glow plug light on as well as 4x4 and low range lights come on.

I have no scan tool, how do I see these codes/ PIDs?

 

To answer the IPR questions, try this thread. There is a lot of good info in there to help answer some questions- https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...pr-sensor.html

As for general starting info, I've used this guide and it has served me well- http://oregonfuelinjection.com/pdf/f...diagnostic.pdf

The rpm gauge will register for some trucks and not others, I can't remember which are which. But you need 180rpm (I think) to get the thing started.

Oil- when was it changed last? You're going to need to know ICP and duty cycle to diagnose the oil system health. Is smoke coming out? If so, what color? No smoke means no fuel, which means either no oil pressure to fire the injectors or no fuel is getting to the injectors. Guessing you don't have a fuel pressure gauge?

Oh yeah, is the truck chipped or tuned? If so remove or program to stock.

ODB reader- search the forum for threads. If you have an android smartphone you have a lot of options but get an ELM bluetooth OBD reader and download Torque Pro. For iOS, i use the OBDLink MX Wifi (iOS is pretty much wifi only) and their app for PIDs and ForScan light for DTCs.

 

Also make sure you test each battery separately. Disconnect the terminals on each one. Sometimes one will go bad but the voltage will read good as the good battery is propping it up. Check all connections on your batteries to make sure they are clean and tight, the same on your alternator. When the truck is running take a voltage reading on your alternator and see what she is putting out.

 

Oil changed about 6 weeks ago when other repairs where completed.

NO PROGRAMMER box installed

 

Thanks, we checked the battery's all together so tomorrow I will independently test them.

Also if the truck starts ill check the alternator while running.

 

check your engine oil level.

Check your battery connections considering all the work you just had done.

 

I also conducted the first 1/2 of this test with the Alternator check.


My alternator with key ON read 12.34v

I could not complete the 2nd half as my vehicle does not start.

 

How much fuel in the tank? Do you have fuel pressure? Discount the ICP plug and see if it will start. Again, read about the IPR and check for that nut. You can change the CPS also it's cheap.

 

UPDATE:

This morning I cleaned the terminals with a baking soda and water solution, wire brushed them and then took an independent battery reading.

Left side reading 12.48v
Right side reading 12.46v

Cleaned the terminals and reassembled each.

I was able to start it up so while idling , the alternator output read 14.11v unlike like last night where she was reading 12.34v not idiling.

after about 10 minutes of idiling the batterys test increases to

Left side reading 13.99v
Right side reading 13.97v

I conducted a voltage drop test just like the above video explains and the reading where

Results:

When she idles she reads .22v

I turned on the head lights, fog lights and heater to MAX defrost simulating it being under a load.

she read .24v

What confuses me though is that in the video his reading where .087v where mine where .22v so for the math types thats a extra place marker ie.
.000 vs. .00 so even though its different am I still ok? He claimed His was over the .5 resulting in a bad alternator where as mine is under .5 so I am assuming mine is still good.



thanks Bombguy

 

1/2 tank of new fuel and i guess I have fuel pressure as she started right up after cleaning the terminals and letting her sit all night.

 

This may sound odd but I apply a film of grease to my battery connections after I clean them up. Nothing special, just the grease I have in my bucket of grease. It's a trick a farmer taught me long ago when I was a teenager. I questioned his sanity and he told me that grease is a conductor, not a blocker of electricity. I watched his truck start up fine afterwards so I've used it ever since. I have no problems with any of my battery connections and no corrosion problems there whatsoever.

 

Awesome...ill give it a shot once we make sure al other bases are covered.

 

OBDII tools link in my signature is worth a click.

The battery light is expected to come on when the engine dies, so I'm thinking let's focus on why we can't revive it.

We really need to know what your ICP/IPR is doing - in a bad way. No smoke during crank usually means the requirements before the injectors fire are not being met. Low ICP or at least low ICP signal is a common problem at the truck's age. Unless you have a 3000 PSI gauge lying around with the special fittings - the OBDII port is the best thing we can use to figure out what's going on. You can unplug the ICP sensor and try to start the truck - that will at least eliminate whether it's the ICP sensor or not.