Carburetor Issues
Forgive me:
Pump, pump, crank, pump, pump, crank, pump, pump, crank and generally will stay running. Might take one or two more cycles, typically if it's colder outside.
But the real issue now is that the choke seems to be fine. Taking the prescribed advice I've examined it thoroughly and it seems to be working fine. Runs better while warming up, snaps shut at first start etc...
But the idle is the maddening part, I've got it turned up high for now to keep it running because if I don't it won't idle at a stop. I've adjusted the idle screw. And it's random, even with the idle turned up it will sometimes drop to almost nothing.
The truck has always done this. So I'm thinking a vacuum thing?
I'd love nothing more than to put a new Edlebrock carb on there but I have toooo many expenses at the moment. I have to pay for a wedding and such.
I'm not as experienced as most of you so I come up against obstacles like this often.
I'm attaching a pic of my vacuum diagram. I understand the majority of it, I understand how an engine works and such and I'm beginning to understand how the emissions equipment works as well but the abbreviations in this diagram are stumping me.
I know PCV and which is the carb and such but for example "VCV" and "VDV" I don't know.
Could one of you knowledgable folks take a minute and spell out all the abbreviations for me please?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...at-a-mess.html
Sorry, I can't figure out the pic thingy, the above should take you to a thread that is exactly what I'm talking about.
No
No
And No!
Please explain the first two.
I will work on finding a timing light and I think I can set that.
Why the heck didn't I pay more attention to pops mechanic lessons
Looks like a trip to the parts store is in order.
We will see how much difference this makes and go from there.
And I did find my timing light, I will do that tomorrow.
No need to explain the carb spraying, vacuum leak chasing procedures now as you've got a good handle on it

On to the next: Setting carb with a vacuum gauge... Attach the gauge to a manifold vacuum source. With the engine running, adjust the mixture screws, one first, maybe 1/8 turn at a time, then the other, repeat. You want to have the highest reading Hg inches you can. Then with the vehicle in PARK or NEUTRAl, set the curb idle...I fergot if you have an automatic or stick.....after you set the timing, go back and set the curb idle with vehicle in DRIVE if an auto (parking brake set of course), or NEUTRAL if a stick.
Timing: I'm sure you know how already so I'll just run through it. There are three leads on the light...one red (goes to + batt), one black (goes to - batt) and the induction clip which closes around #1 plug wire. Hold the light such that it points at the harmonic balancer with the numbers (in degrees) and the degree pointer on the block. Squeeze the trigger, the light will flash and will show you what number (again in degrees) shows up at the pointer. Check it first (before you loosen the distributor)...note what number shows....that is your timing, BTDC.
Let us know your results? You'll probably be shi**ing in tall cotton after you fix the vacuum leaks but it doesn't hurt to check
I don't have a vacuum gauge but I will get one eventually.
I'm going to wait on the timing until I get the vacuum leaks fixed, right?
This begs the question: Where can I get a good manual that explains the carburetor?
I guess I really need a shop manual, which one is good? What am I looking for exactly?
Thanks for the help thus far.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts

I guess I really need a shop manual, which one is good? What am I looking for exactly?
Thanks for the help thus far.
Shop manuals can be had at any parts store - yours is an '86, yes? If not there, go online at HiPo parts for a CD...it's probably better than the Chiltons or Haynes one anyway.
And, you're welcome fer shure, thus far....hehehe

At any rate, I'll hang with you as best I can...no problem
Thursday evening after supper I began working on the vacuum lines, big mistake. Lesson learned; don't start so late in the day you can't finish. Everything started and ran ok but the next morning I couldn't get the ole girl to cold idle at all, oh well. Took off and got two blocks and the transmission wouldn't shift! Needless to say I blew a gasket. Went back and drove wife's car to work.
Got home Friday and decided to relax and begin again this morning. Got the transmission issue fixed instantly. After taking off the air cleaner I found a line dangling, boy did I feel stupid.
Went back to working on the vac lines and got a majority of them replaced. Thus far I think I have all my issues solved!!! She fired right up and high idled perfectly!
So, the lessons I've learned:
1. I'm not as bad at mechaneck as I think.
2. Skip the discount stores for vacuum lines.
3. Be able to start and finish in the same day, probably will avoid things like this during the work week....
4. A trustworthy mechanic is difficult to find. The one who rebuilt my carb 5 years ago should have done something about the antique vacuum lines.
The mechanic we have now for working on the wife's car is great. When I asked him about my troubles he told me the name of a guy he trusted as he really didn't know anything about carbs. He has proven to be honest and reliable several times.
So now all that's left will be warming it up and adjusting the idle and such. Well, hopefully that's all. There's still more vac line to replace but I've got other stuff to get to today. I've got to go find a dipstick... Some fat guy was climbing around on my truck and slipped and broke it! I didn't yell cause my wife thinks I'm looney when I argue with myself...
Just like when I didn't have the vacuum line hooked to the tranny. I can pull it down into low, manually shift into second but third (or D drive) isn't working.
Everything is hooked up snugly.
I'm pulling my hair out.






