Carburetor Issues
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: Meridian ID
Beast,
Looking at the choke plate when it's cold it is working now that I hooked it up again.
I didn't think to look at it when hot, I will do this when I get home.
Mostly the big issue seems to be a starvation of fuel. I do the double pump maybe as many 8 or 9 times to get it to catch in the morning.
Maybe fuel pump or filter?
Looking at the choke plate when it's cold it is working now that I hooked it up again.
I didn't think to look at it when hot, I will do this when I get home.
Mostly the big issue seems to be a starvation of fuel. I do the double pump maybe as many 8 or 9 times to get it to catch in the morning.
Maybe fuel pump or filter?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,018
Likes: 210
From: SoCal
You can check for sufficient fuel in the carburetor by looking down the throats (open choke plate) and push open the throttle a little and check for the fuel to squirt out of the enrichment jets. This is one of the things that happen when you floor it before cold starting to set the choke. The faster you open the throttle, the stronger the squirt. If you see that squirt, then you have enough fuel in the carburetor. If not, then start looking for problems such as clogged fuel filter or failing pump.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
Changing the fuel filter(s) should be part of a tune up....even more often than changing the plugs/wires, etc.
If you can, get a clear plastic fuel filter and put it inline in front of the tank....where its easily accessible....that way you can take a peek at it every so often to check if it's bad. Then put another one after the fuel pump and before the carb, away from heat if you can. I use a glass one there, myself.
Blow out the lines if you can. Check all your fuel hard lines for minute pinholes/rust/kinking, too. If the rubber fuel lines appear cracked or brittle, replace them with fuel infected lines. They're a bit pricey but worth it.
Check the carb squirt as xltwd90 said. Not a good squirt? Could be the lines, could be a bad accelerator pump. Replace the fuel filters first, though.
The numerous pumps you have to do to get her running could be a float issue but we'll get into that after you replace the filters.
Hang in there.....we'll get to the cause of this illness yet!
If you can, get a clear plastic fuel filter and put it inline in front of the tank....where its easily accessible....that way you can take a peek at it every so often to check if it's bad. Then put another one after the fuel pump and before the carb, away from heat if you can. I use a glass one there, myself.
Blow out the lines if you can. Check all your fuel hard lines for minute pinholes/rust/kinking, too. If the rubber fuel lines appear cracked or brittle, replace them with fuel infected lines. They're a bit pricey but worth it.
Check the carb squirt as xltwd90 said. Not a good squirt? Could be the lines, could be a bad accelerator pump. Replace the fuel filters first, though.
The numerous pumps you have to do to get her running could be a float issue but we'll get into that after you replace the filters.
Hang in there.....we'll get to the cause of this illness yet!
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: Meridian ID
Well I didn't change the fuel filter cause it's a crummy little one that fits into the carburetor, it's a b***h to change, in fact I never could figure out how to get wrenches on it properly.
I was advised that you have pop the carb off to get to it. So I will try it this weekend. Do I need to replace a gasket when I pull the carb? It's been on for at least three years since it was rebuilt.
I was advised that you have pop the carb off to get to it. So I will try it this weekend. Do I need to replace a gasket when I pull the carb? It's been on for at least three years since it was rebuilt.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
Well I didn't change the fuel filter cause it's a crummy little one that fits into the carburetor, it's a b***h to change, in fact I never could figure out how to get wrenches on it properly.
I was advised that you have pop the carb off to get to it. So I will try it this weekend. Do I need to replace a gasket when I pull the carb?
I was advised that you have pop the carb off to get to it. So I will try it this weekend. Do I need to replace a gasket when I pull the carb?
Pulling the carb is the easiest way to get at it, as you've had problems with it.And, yes, most definitely you have to replace the carb to intake gasket! They're not re-usable unless it's been on there for a minute and one has to take it off again. They're about 5 bucks...use to be about 27 cents....
I torque the 4 nuts down, in stages, in an "X" pattern, 60 - 80 inch lbs....although you can get them all snug, then tighten 'em down a little at a time. After a while, or has been running for a bit, go back and snug 'em up again.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: Meridian ID
Well the wife met me at work this afternoon and I did my squirt check before takeoff.
The good news is the squirters is working fine!
Now here is curious: The idle is 100% better when cold (on the way to work).
On the way home it idles great. The starting is easy and it catches to idle pretty easily. But on the way home as it gets warmer it idles worse.
So it seems that at highest warmth, think ambient air temp included, is when it idles worst.
Tired of it I just tweaked my idle screw for now.
I will do the filter but it seems to me there is some vacuumish issue. At idle it just doesn't sound right.
The good news is the squirters is working fine!
Now here is curious: The idle is 100% better when cold (on the way to work).
On the way home it idles great. The starting is easy and it catches to idle pretty easily. But on the way home as it gets warmer it idles worse.
So it seems that at highest warmth, think ambient air temp included, is when it idles worst.
Tired of it I just tweaked my idle screw for now.
I will do the filter but it seems to me there is some vacuumish issue. At idle it just doesn't sound right.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
What does it sound like? Can you describe it?
Vacuum leaks can be tough to diagnose if you're not consistent with the spraying around the carb's base, throttle plate bar, plugged vacuum ports and vacuum lines checked for cracks.
Vacuum leaks can be tough to diagnose if you're not consistent with the spraying around the carb's base, throttle plate bar, plugged vacuum ports and vacuum lines checked for cracks.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: Meridian ID
I will do the spraying this weekend.
The sound is like maybe a lean type of sputtering but not quite. It doesn't stumble off the stop line like it was rich or way lean but it does hesitate.
It will smooth out when I'm in the throttle so I'm guessing it's vacuum.
Maybe I can get the kid to take a video and post it to youtube for the sound. (Technologically beyond me)
The sound is like maybe a lean type of sputtering but not quite. It doesn't stumble off the stop line like it was rich or way lean but it does hesitate.
It will smooth out when I'm in the throttle so I'm guessing it's vacuum.
Maybe I can get the kid to take a video and post it to youtube for the sound. (Technologically beyond me)
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
Ok on the spraying...I'll watch for it and the video.
I hear ya on the you tube deal. I don't understand it either. The best I can do is post pictures......and that's a challenge sometimes...haha.
I hear ya on the you tube deal. I don't understand it either. The best I can do is post pictures......and that's a challenge sometimes...haha.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: Meridian ID
Well, well, well... I'm more of a mechaneck than I thought!
I've always been terrified of carburetors but no more!
Cleaned everything off, pulled the carb and found the Egr valve that was so plugged and filthy it was ridiculous, so I replaced the Egr valve, new gaskets and a couple of vacuum hoses and the thing runs like a raped ape! No hesitation and it kicks down when you floorboard it, basically it runs like a good ole Ford truck with a V8 ;-)
However... I think the choke is shot, it still idles erratically, stuck on high or down to regular, very unpredictable. The choke plate isn't closing tight like it should when cold and it doesn't open completely when warm.
I'm tickled to death with it running so much better I can live with the idle.
I'm going to check and see if I can get a choke repair kit for the Holley 4180.
I've always been terrified of carburetors but no more!
Cleaned everything off, pulled the carb and found the Egr valve that was so plugged and filthy it was ridiculous, so I replaced the Egr valve, new gaskets and a couple of vacuum hoses and the thing runs like a raped ape! No hesitation and it kicks down when you floorboard it, basically it runs like a good ole Ford truck with a V8 ;-)
However... I think the choke is shot, it still idles erratically, stuck on high or down to regular, very unpredictable. The choke plate isn't closing tight like it should when cold and it doesn't open completely when warm.
I'm tickled to death with it running so much better I can live with the idle.
I'm going to check and see if I can get a choke repair kit for the Holley 4180.