Well, time to dive in here on "La Bete."

I have a stock 1986 150 with a C6 behind a 5.8 H.O. 4V.

The problem confounding me at the moment, and the one that is most important is the idle.

A while back the old girl refused to start for a couple of days. This came out of the blue. Before this a cold start was 2 pumps, maybe a restart and gtg. Rough running till up to temp but then it is an old Ford... The idle was always inconsistent, when up to full temp and the ambient air temp was sufficient she purred like a kitten at idle. However, cold outside, not up to temp etc. it would switch from high idle to a low stuttering.

I had the carb rebuilt about 4 years ago and it wasn't perfect but it was good.

My problem is Maybelle gets me to work every day and winter is coming; I need her to idle so she can warm up and clear off the windscreen.

As it is now, two pumps, crank, two pumps, crank, two pumps, now she'll catch but I have to feather the throttle and she will finally idle once up to temp but again, it's either high idle or idling so low I have to pop it in neutral.

There you have it. Any suggestions?

We have a well respected carburetor shop here in town. I think a rebuild is beyond me.
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Well that was my first real post (in the wrong forum of course) since thanks to Ctubutis I now know I have a 351W!

So here I am, informed and fixed (a bit).

After Ctubutis pointed me to a couple of carburetor articles I found that my kick down rod wasn't connected! Viola, one issue solved!

I'm excited, can you tell by all the !?!

So, if I need to adjust the idle how do I do that.

And I want to change the silly little fuel filter on the front of the carb but it's a b***h and I can't get it, any instructions?

 

1. What kind of carb are you running? Might help to know what it is for adjustment/filter/needle & float/jet setup.

2. Automatic or manual choke and is it functioning as it should? I'd look at an adjustment first before before you send it to a "well respected carb shop" for a rebuild.

3. A Viola only has one issue - to hold more beer than a violin Once that's accomplished, "Voila!".... you can move onto other problems.

Adjusting the idle plays second Viola to getting the carb to run right.

 

Well it's all stock so from what I find that means a Holley 4180. When I look up images on the internet it looks the same.

Choke is automatic.

So for me the blasted fuel filter is the bugger. Having an impossible time getting wrenches on the thing.

 

Is this a completely non-computer controlled carburetor?

It sounds like you need to adjust the automatic choke. The old instructions were to wait for the engine to be COLD, and slowly open the throttle all the way, then release. This should allow the choke to close to what the thermostat wants to set it to. You loosen the thermostat body and turn it until the choke plate JUST closes, then tighten the thermostat body. You may have to open the throttle a little to allow the plate to adjust.

The choke linkage has a stepped-cam that stops the throttle from closing completely, increasing the idle position of the throttle. There should be a set screw on that side of the throttle shaft that engages this cam that sets the cold idle speed. Again, this has to be set when the engine is cold, so it could be difficult if the engine has a hard time running when cold. You could try cranking that screw down a couple of turns before starting to bring up the idle, and when the engine is running, turn it down to the lowest setting where it will still idle, all before the engine warms up.

If these settings are done properly, the engine should idle and run when cold, though not as smoothly as a more modern computer controlled engine.

 

Adjusting the choke is exactly what I was suggesting.....nice to know we're on the same page, there, xlt4wd90!

Without taking off the carb, I think you'll have a bear of a time getting a 1" wrench on that puppy, and be able to turn it/replace it......as, I'm sure, you're well aware. Sorry.

 

Guess I didn't make it clear in my post, I looked and the choke kick down linkage had come undone, hooked it back up and I'm thinking this should fix my problem with idle.

Now, any advice on the fuel filter? Do I need special wrenches?

 

Ahh, yes...your Viola moment....hehe. I thought it was the trans kick down rod.

My previous post stated a 1" wrench....after the fuel feed line is off. Also, I agreed with you that it would be a bear of a time if the carb is still on the manifold. If it's off and you don't have the wrench....an adjustable ("Crescent") type would work. I know there's not much to bite on...that's why yanking it off the manifold would be best...my opinion.

 

Really? Take the carb loose? Man o man that seems extreme.

Maybe I'm thinking that's more complicated than it really is.

I've always been scared of carburetors.

 

Well, can you post up a picture of the carb and fuel feed/filter? From what I recall, there's a nasty angle there and the intake is in the way stopping you from getting a good "bite." That's what I'm thinking of.

Yessuh, it's not hard...if you take it off, all you need is a carb gasket...the gasket that holds the filter is a pain. It'll probably come off in pieces once you get the nut broke loose. But you should have that with the filter when you bought it, no?

Nothing to be concerned about as its a simple machine. Tuning, et al, is fun once you have the basics.

 

Will get a pic this week.

Without my old pops I've been the reluctant mechanic, even though things generally turn out fine.

 

My condolences, if I'm reading you right. It can be daunting just jumping into things with out back up. But, there's plenty of good people here to help.

Things generally do work out ok, no? Especially if one has a positive attitude.

Pictures: Take plenty, mostly for your own benefit, if you do end up taking the carb off, and any other wrenches you turn on the vehicle. Believe me, they help a lot!

 

Well the trip to work and back home were great today!

The truck ran like it hasn't in years. I think I'm gonna have to adjust the idle down a bit.

Although it's still hard to get going. Once I got it, 5 or 6 tries, it stayed running for warm up.

Any further thoughts?

 

Excellent! But, what exactly did you do? Hard starting could be a number of things...

 

The only thing I've done is hook up the kick down linkage back up to the choke plate.

I've been scratching my head over this for quite a while, just out of the blue like this.

Recently I've done a tune up with no real improvement.

 

Ok...have you checked/adjusted the choke as described in post #4? If it's confusing I'll post up a simplified version for you.

Basically, and with the air cleaner off, you just loosen the three screws on the black circular deal such that it's turn-able. There should be an arrow pointing to lean/rich...I think. Turn the black deal and watch the choke plates...engine cold, of course....such that they're open just a wee bit. Snug up the screws and try it.

Fergot something....when she's cold, punch the gas pedal once or twice to set the choke. After she's warmed up , punch it again to open it.....it is opening fully when warm, yes?

Tune up: you checked the plugs for correct gap, no? I always check/reset 'em 'cause they might not be right from the gate.