I try searching before I post questions but either I don't search correctly or the search function here lacks detail.


Anyway, what is involved in raising the cab off the frame on an '01 F250 Super Cab? I've searched videos and most aren't specific to my truck and I guess they will get me in the ballpark but I would like details. 4 or 6 cab bolts? 2 at the core support? Other than looking for misc. ground straps and such, unbolting the master cylinder/ABS, steering linkage, shifter linkage, wiring harness, coolant lines, and Freon, are there any surprises? I will be using a lift to raise the cab (if we decide to go this route) but it just seems with an hour or two worth of work to raise the cab it would make pulling the heads off my 5.4 a lot easier.

 

6 bolts 2 at core support, 2 front 2 rear of cab.

 

It's been awhile since I've removed a cab on any pre-2008 model year Super Duty truck, but this is what I remember thus far.

SIX cab to frame fasteners in total for a regular cab/super (or extended) cab configuration. Two 18mm nuts adjacent to the radiator. Two 21mm bolts for the passenger side, one accessed by pulling up the passenger front carpet to expose a rubber grommet that needs to be removed from the floor thereby giving you access to the head of the bolt. The other will be accessed by folding up the rear seat and removing the bottle jack, and rolling up that end of the carpet giving you access to the grommet covering the bolt. The driver side, will be 24mm bolts. Access to them is similar to what is described above for the passenger side, with the exception that you may need to remove three 8mm bolts securing the utility tray (if equipped) to access the left rear cab fastener.

Other items I remember off the top of my head are, upper and lower rad hoses, ground strap under passenger side front door from body to frame as well as firewall on passenger side under cowl. The steering coupler is disconnected inside the passenger compartment secured by one 10mm bolt. Once removed, the lower half of the steering shaft is telescoped through the firewall. Then there is the shifter cable, and parking brake cable connection on the driver side, disconnected where the front cable and mid cable connect. Also disconnect both front ABS wheel speed sensors. Then, there's the transmission fluid cooler lines, along with the three ABS HCU lines at the HCU itself to be disconnected and folded over (the master cylinder and ABS HCU are raised with the cab). Also, your A/C compressor lines on the passenger side need to be disconnected to enable the compressor to remain bolted to the engine while the rest of the A/C system is raised with the cab. Other than that, it's a few more underhood electrical connections and that's it.

 

Thank you very much, that's just what I needed. I did see a video where they unbolted the master cylinder and ABS and left them on the frame. Which could save some work.

 

That probably is a better method, in that you wouldn't be "opening up" brake system hydraulics.

One other noteworthy item I forgot to mention, the main battery positive and ground cable assembly will stay with the frame, so disconnect as needed to achieve that.

Also bear in mind the instructions I've given are based upon the fact that I have lifted numerous cabs off of these trucks, are all equipped with the 6.0L diesel. I suspect a 5.4L truck will be similar, and likely easier and simpler even.

 

As much as I hate to pull the cab I think it would make pulling the intake and heads a lot easier. I know it can be done with the cab in place but my back can't take all of the bending and contorting much anymore. The fact that the hood, fenders, grill, core support, radiator, a/c condenser, etc. all stay in place and don't have to be removed is a huge plus.

 

lifting the cab sure does make it easier if you have a lift. you can do it all from the front by removing the radiator support, rad, condenser, header support and bumper.